Turbo 15B 80/40

[frankenyota]

Looking at the wiring for the alternator and it seems the HJ47 uses the sedimenter light for the filter and the alternator?
The wiring goes to the sedimenter filter and also goes to the LH side through a diode and joins the external regulator.
Would l be correct in using this wire to go to my 15B internally regulated 'L' terminal on the alternator? I would need to move it across to the RH side on the engine harness if that's the case.
Otherwise l was thinking of using the glow light as my new alternator light. Would be nice to try and keep it similar to the original HJ47 set up.
Picture of diode

 

[frankenyota]

Waiting on some new wiring terminals so moved onto the sump. Pulled the sump and was happy to see how clean this thing is.
Cut the side off and made a plate from some 1.5mm sheet l had, then water leak checked my welds, which required some more welding to fully seal. I considered drilling the factory spot for the turbo drain hose but got concerned with it being around the block internal bracing. So reconsidering drilling and mounting the return at the top of the sump. There is some bracing on the inside so might have to drill that out

Or as recommended l might fit the return here

 

[frankenyota]

Followed @Scheefdog advice in his build and used some old beat up front guards to cut and position before hacking up some nicer guards. Got the LH side mocked up but still need to do some brackets etc to secure them properly. Also wanted to see how much the guards need to be stretched out to cover the wheels

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Factory turbo engines have the block drilled - there's a flat casting area which you can see is there for just that purpose. The more welds/ joints you have in the sump, the more likely you are to get leaks.

 

[frankenyota]

Can see the factory spot on the block and agree it would be the best spot but hesitatant to drill. Might try and find out if the threaded bolt holes go all the way through or bottom out and the diameter of the drain hole. Still like this idea but it seems most people just add a fitting to the sump.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The bolt holes are blind (do not go through).

 

[frankenyota]

Once l get the turbo and fittings l will drill a 10mm hole and some threads for the return. Mean while l have plenty of work to do till then. Still waiting on a heap of engine parts to come in as well.
Cut out the front crossmember to do a flip and reposition it further back. Think this looks the cleanest once done. Was a bit difficult getting into the inner vertical joins to cut but got it out. Mocked up the bonnet with the upper guard sides to see where to remount and position the front bib hinge. Also mounted a front brace to keep the rails in the original position.
Swapped in my steel front bib to replace the old fibreglass one. Even has the diesel badge

 

[frankenyota]

Got the crossmember flipped and roughed in and worked out the best position for clearance of a radiator and intercooler. Shouldn’t be a big issue with a 4 cylinder but the more room the better. Tacked it in and double checked all measurements and final position, then welded her in. Definitely the best way to go for a clean looking front end. With the front bib bolted in and the side upper guards clamped to the bonnet this allowed me to lift the whole front up and down while working out positioning. You can see roughly how far back it had to be moved from the old welds, think it ended up being closer to the front than this picture.

 

[frankenyota]

With the front crossmember all welded, just need to drill a few mounting holes for the bib hinge.
Made a steel backing plate to brace my manifold l’m building to stop any warping from heat. Drilled some holes and taped threads to bolt the flange down. Hopefully stop it from warping. Been giving the old workshop a good tidy before l head off to work for a week and getting rid of junk to get a bit of space back.
Also looking into what turbo l want to buy, been recommended a TD05 18g with a 6 cm housing and T3 flange. A fella told me Arashi, kinugawa, mamba etc are all the same just rebranded.

 

[frankenyota]

Started a thread for feedback on a suitable turbo for the 15BF

15BF Best Turbo to use?

Have a 15BF engine that will get a turbo added and after talking to some people with experience it was recommended that a TD05 18G with a 6cm housing is a good choice. Not a lot of information around with adding aftermarket turbos to the 15B. Was looking at a Holset HE221 / HX30 but been told...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Dougal]

With the front crossmember all welded, just need to drill a few mounting holes for the bib hinge.
Made a steel backing plate to brace my manifold l’m building to stop any warping from heat. Drilled some holes and taped threads to bolt the flange down. Hopefully stop it from warping. Been giving the old workshop a good tidy before l head off to work for a week and getting rid of junk to get a bit of space back.
Also looking into what turbo l want to buy, been recommended a TD05 18g with a 6 cm housing and T3 flange. A fella told me Arashi, kinugawa, mamba etc are all the same just rebranded.

View attachment 3789201

Those turbos are too big. But for the manifold you do not want swept T's like that in the middle. Better to cut bends so they direct flow in the right direction.

I think you'd be better finding either a cast manifold (minimum volume) or making a tubular manifold (equal length). The pipe design you have is worst of all worlds.
Are you trying to merge square ports into round pipe?

 

[frankenyota]

Looked at the factory manifold but it puts the turbo too far back towards the firewall.
So decided to make this and put the turbo towards the front, maybe between the first two ports. I welded the inside of the flange and ported it for flow into the manifold. I know a tubular manifold of equal lengths would be the best but didn’t think it would be an issue unless chasing big power?

 

[Dougal]

Looked at the factory manifold but it puts the turbo too far back towards the firewall.
So decided to make this and put the turbo towards the front, maybe between the first two ports. I welded the inside of the flange and ported it for flow into the manifold. I know a tubular manifold of equal lengths would be the best but didn’t think it would be an issue unless chasing big power?

Spoolup is the goal. A better manifold spools the turbo sooner and delivers less backpressure to the engine at every point in operation. Boost sooner, better VE, more torque, power and better fuel economy for the same boost and fuel.

Also keep in mind the manifold runs hotter and expands more than the head. So the port fit needs to make sure at all temps it's stepping up and not down.

 

[frankenyota]

When l was building the manifold l checked and measured port sizes and the manifold flange had bigger port openings so went with 1 1/2" tube which seemed to be very close in size to the engine port size.
I will post some pictures of the manifold when l get home later this week with some measurements. Also the next size for tubing was 2” and was too big. I based the design on another guys build for a HX30 super turbo, hence why l was initially interested in going that way. His has an auto behind the 15B in a 105 series landcruiser. See pics below of his build, hope he doesn’t mind.

 

[frankenyota]

Finished my last roster for the year
Took some measurements to show the large ports on the 15BF head. They measure 36 x 40mm

Then took some of the flange l had cut.
Flange openings are 43 x 44mm.
The steam pipe l’m using measures 42mm ID

 

[frankenyota]

I have welded the inside flange to pipe and blended it for flow. Happy that the sizes l used will be big enough, need to size the T3 flange opening onto the manifold still but will wait until l choose a turbo.

 

[frankenyota]

Wanted to get the rear fuel tank in that was taking up valuable workshop space. I’m using a VDJ79 130l tank that was removed when new. Fits in the space at the rear perfectly. Decided to try and make up some of my own mounts out of 100x50 box.
I’m no engineer but seems like it will be alright Not sure whether the front mounts should have more purchase onto the chassis?
Going to weld the front two pieces together with some flat bar for strength.
Plenty of clearance underneath the tank at the rear. Might check the clearance of a VDJ79 when I’m back out at work to compare the differance.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

When l was building the manifold l checked and measured port sizes and the manifold flange had bigger port openings so went with 1 1/2" tube which seemed to be very close in size to the engine port size.
I will post some pictures of the manifold when l get home later this week with some measurements. Also the next size for tubing was 2” and was too big. I based the design on another guys build for a HX30 super turbo, hence why l was initially interested in going that way. His has an auto behind the 15B in a 105 series landcruiser. See pics below of his build, hope he doesn’t mind.

View attachment 3793305

View attachment 3793306

View attachment 3793307

I'm interested in your engine setup, as I see you are sticking with single-row V belts, which has also been my approach. Looks like you have the AC bracket from a 14B for a 10PA17 compressor (I think I have that bracket too as a spare). What's the water pump pulley from? Also the alternator. The pulley looks like the one that came on low output 12V 45A BJ70/73 alternators and some 24V 25A Dyna alternators.

 

[frankenyota]

The turbo 15B photo is from another guys build that l’m following.
Mine is also a single row pulley alternator from a BU142R model Dyna, waterpump pulley is the factory one. I have ordered the AC pulley to bolt on the front of the Harmonic balancer but l need an air con compressor bracket for mine. Talked to a guy on the weekend that had a 3B bracket from a BJ73 but not sure if that fits. He told me it fitted on his 15B but he is using the bracket that came on his 15BFTE from a coaster.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

The turbo 15B photo is from another guys build that l’m following.
Mine is also a single row pulley alternator from a BU142R model Dyna, waterpump pulley is the factory one. I have ordered the AC pulley to bolt on the front of the Harmonic balancer but l need an air con compressor bracket for mine. Talked to a guy on the weekend that had a 3B bracket from a BJ73 but not sure if that fits. He told me it fitted on his 15B but he is using the bracket that came on his 15BFTE from a coaster.

Ah sorry, should have re-read your post.

AC compressor brackets are very difficult to find in my experience. The issue is that the front timing case bolt pattern changed in August 1988 on the 3B (and others).

There are two options for factory brackets:
Find a bracket from a blue block 3BII from a BJ70/73/75, these are very rare. These fit the Denso 10P15 type compressor (as originally fitted to 60/70 Series LCs before 1990)
Use a 14B Dyna bracket, but these are also rare as most Dynas don't have AC. These fit Denso 10PA17 type compressors. They are not interchangeable with the earlier compressor.

The old 3B type bracket will fit, but not all the bolts line up, so you end up with 2 adjacent missing bolts on the timing cover.

15B brackets will of course work, but the AC compressor will be dual belt. I've also seen 15Bs with the compressor mounted high on the intake side of the engine.