Tundra A Arm and Brake Conversion Sticky?

[HDJdreams]

I know that bjowett and a few others have converted to Tundra A arms and brakes. The actual details of the conversions seem to be scattered over several long threads. I would suggest making a sticky post with the condensed conversion details (I.e. PNs needed, DIY tips, and wheel selection tips). I'll try to filter and paste relevant info into this thread, but I would really hope the people that have actually done it would chime in.

Does the longer arm and greater leverage change spring and shock performance much? (Enough to warrant a different spring and shock selection?)

For the same lift, how much travel is gained over the 200?

Those that have done it, would you do it again? What would you do different?

What offset works best for 17" wheels and Tundra arms?

I figure if collecting the parts for the conversion, it is good to know what aftermarket upgrades are available. What parts are okay to source used and which should be purchased new?

Several companies make high travel UCAs for stock width Tundras, does anyone make high travel lowers in stock width? Are used Tundra lower A arms okay (assuming not damaged)? Are 200 and Tundra spindles the same or different? Is there a brake kit that works better than stock Tundra and still fits in 17" wheels?

 

[TexAZ]

I love mine and would do it again in a heartbeat. In theory you can gain 2" of addtional wheel travel by using the tundra hardware.
I tried to write up the build thread to explain the parts list laid out fairly straight forward.
I din't include part numbers, as most of my parts came from Ebay/Craigslist. Most parts are the same from 2007 to 2015. BJowwit may know what few parts have changed. My best recommendation would be to find a shop that does long travel Tundra builds and offer to buy the stock hardware from them. If they are willing you can get near new parts at a fraction of the cost.

Stick with stock lower control arms, CV axles, and tie rod ends. (all proven quality that survived Baja 1000) Aftermarket upper control arms are a matter of taste and budget. For the money, SPC arms are hard to beat. If you have the cash, go for the Icon or other billet arms.

In speaking with Icon about the shock/spring options, the tundra and landcruiser are just different enough that the parts are not interchangeable, the spring rates and shock valving are different, and the lower mounting spacers are different.

As far as brakes, take your lines off and find a local shop to make stainless braided lines 1" longer than stock. I ordered a set from goodridge for a 2006 LC that were 2" over stock. it took three weeks to get and the rear of the kit doesn't match up exactly right. The fronts worked great and I love the feel of my brakes now. Actually I recommend any landcruiser owner swap over to stainless lines, makes the brakes more controlled and less "spongy".

Adding 3" of track width will limit your choice of wheels, unless you don't mind the tires sticking out of the side of the wheel wells. Factory 18" tundra or landcruiser wheels have 60mm offset. This keeps the wheels tucked inside the wheel wells. The 17" rock warriors have a 50mm offset.
I was not able to find a decent 17 or 18" aftermarket wheel with close to as much offset. Factory wheels are about the only option if you want to install the tundra front and keep the wheels/tires inside the wheel wells.

 

[Roy Park]

Reviving this thread. Sorry. I understand that the alignment specs we are shooting for are Tundra specs. But for the Tundra, I’ve maxed out caster while keeping camber +0.1. On my Tundra that number is above 4.0. What is everyone getting on their LC with a Tundra swap? I’m currently getting 2.8.

 

[NLScooby]

I'm at 2.4 (drivers) and 2.5 (passenger). I have adjustable UCA's also.