TSM rear discs

[Spook50]

Well according to TSM, their rear discs for later model 60s and 62s will also bolt right up to the hubs on a full float axle. I had thought that different brackets were needed, but even if that's the only difference, I'm gonna give it a shot after all the work I'm doing when I get home is done. Anyone used the TSM kit that can give any tips or advice for installation? I figure I'm gonna need custom lines or some sort of adapter that'll connect to the bajo fitting on the Eldo calipers, but other than that, it looks pretty cut n' dry.

 

[3pits]

most ppl say you dont gain much by doing a disc brake conversion on a 60/62, but I am very interested in your results bc it is only logical that it would make a huge difference.... keep us posted.

 

[VETTE60]

i used their kit on my 40 and it was a snap. took me about two hours to do no problem. worked great, ofcourse it was amazing going from no power 4wheel drums to power four wheel disks. stop on a dime.....

 

[Brian Worthan]

I did my 40 and 60 with their kits and am really happy with them. Much better stopping power and a lot less maintenance. However the initial adjustment and bleeding is critical.

The 60 uses the El Dorado caliper with the inclosed parking brake. This set up has a unique and frustrating adjustment for setting the parking brake. Follow the TSM directions carefully and work at getting the adjustment correct or brakes will never be right. The adjustment is critical and impacts the feel at the pedal also.

Gravity bleeding of the system is necessary to get all the trapped air out of the system. Since this system is adapted to the TLC the positioning is not the same as on the original intended vehicle. Because of this the bleeder valve is not positioned at the highest point and air gets trapped inside the caliper. Normal bleeding practice did not get all the trapped air out, leaving the pedal mushy. If after adjusting the parking brake and bleeding you find your pedal is still not solid you will have to gravity bleed the calipers.

Remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and open the bleeder valve. Position the bleeder valve so it is at the top to allow all the air out. Move the caliper around to allow all the trapped air out until you only have fluid constantly coming out. Makes a BIG difference in the feel at the pedal!

 

[Spook50]

I did my 40 and 60 with their kits and am really happy with them. Much better stopping power and a lot less maintenance. However the initial adjustment and bleeding is critical.

The 60 uses the El Dorado caliper with the inclosed parking brake. This set up has a unique and frustrating adjustment for setting the parking brake. Follow the TSM directions carefully and work at getting the adjustment correct or brakes will never be right. The adjustment is critical and impacts the feel at the pedal also.

Gravity bleeding of the system is necessary to get all the trapped air out of the system. Since this system is adapted to the TLC the positioning is not the same as on the original intended vehicle. Because of this the bleeder valve is not positioned at the highest point and air gets trapped inside the caliper. Normal bleeding practice did not get all the trapped air out, leaving the pedal mushy. If after adjusting the parking brake and bleeding you find your pedal is still not solid you will have to gravity bleed the calipers.

Remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper and open the bleeder valve. Position the bleeder valve so it is at the top to allow all the air out. Move the caliper around to allow all the trapped air out until you only have fluid constantly coming out. Makes a BIG difference in the feel at the pedal!

Good advice on the ebrake and bleeding method. Looking at the calipers I wasn't sure how I'd be able to adapt the ebrake cable. Did you have to have any modifications done to the cable or routing it at all?

 

[Brian Worthan]

Mine was done by the PO. What they did was to shorten the ebrake cable to about 24" and it enters into one end of a rectangle box made or 1/2" angle iron of approximately 12" x 6". The box is attached to the underside of the body where a cross member support exists. The two individual brake cables enter the oxposite end of the rectangular box. In the middle of the rectangle box a piece of bar stock with 3 I-hooks connect it all together. The I-hooks allow for individual adjustment of each cable to fine tune the setup. Like a TLC is is simple, rugged and it works well! If I can obtain a camera I will send pics.

 

[Tinker]

TSM has a link on their site to someone who does custom ebrake cable fabrication, IIRC.

Let me know what you find out, Spook! I just got my JDM FF Tuesday & I'm looking at the same conversion. TSM is about 10 min away from my shop & I'd be glad to check anything out in person & take pix if you like.

 

[Tapage]

keep up posted ... with pic ( if is posible ) with 37" is a obligate upgrade in my TLC.

 

[Spook50]

Mine was done by the PO. What they did was to shorten the ebrake cable to about 24" and it enters into one end of a rectangle box made or 1/2" angle iron of approximately 12" x 6". The box is attached to the underside of the body where a cross member support exists. The two individual brake cables enter the oxposite end of the rectangular box. In the middle of the rectangle box a piece of bar stock with 3 I-hooks connect it all together. The I-hooks allow for individual adjustment of each cable to fine tune the setup. Like a TLC is is simple, rugged and it works well! If I can obtain a camera I will send pics.

Yeah pics would be great. It sounds a lot like the factory ebrake cable setup in my Beetle, which surprised me at how simple (but effective) it is.

Hey Tinker how much did your FF cost you for freight? I want one bad and I've had the money set aside for a while, but never did order one because I figured the frieght would have killed me.

 

[Tinker]

Spook -
Via Watkins, both axles were $342 from Washington state to Castle Rock, CO. Would have been lots cheaper to go Forward Air, but the PO would have had to take them to SeaTac in a closed container & I would have had to pick them up at DIA.

I'm guessing the FF weighs 150-200#, & looks a lot beefier than my SF. The front is heavier.

 

[Spook50]

Spook -
Via Watkins, both axles were $342 from Washington state to Castle Rock, CO. Would have been lots cheaper to go Forward Air, but the PO would have had to take them to SeaTac in a closed container & I would have had to pick them up at DIA.

I'm guessing the FF weighs 150-200#, & looks a lot beefier than my SF. The front is heavier.

$342 total? did you get 'em off a parted out rig, or does someone in WA sell FFs that I never knew about? If they're available somewhere in WA, hell I could make the drive anywhere form Spokane and not worry about freight...