Trying to finish up front axle service - Need help!!

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Well, it was going way too well. Heffenoche came over and we worked on my front axle. After having done his in December, we seemed to be able to fly through it (compared to our timid approach in December). We started to finish up and WHAM! a couple of hiccups. I am hoping you can help.

First, I'm an idiot. So no comments from the peanut gallery are necessary. ;) I am putting Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in the diff. I wanted to see if I had enough clearance to get the bottle up under there and get the fluid in withouth having to use a pump. I put the bottle up, looked good so I started to remove it so I could start filling. I had put the bottle up there, tip in the hole, and didn't remove the little blue cap first (see where this is going?). The blue cap came off and went in the diff. :whoops: How can I get this out, and if it stays in there, will it hurt anything?

Second, as part of the front end work, I decided to replace the tie rod and relay link ends. Good thing because they are loose as can be. To make life easier, I completely removed both bars. I have soaked the threads in PBB and even used a MAPP torch to heat them up and see if I can break them free. Is there a trick that will work?? At this point I am so frustrated and sore that I am just thinking I will call Slee and get his bars, but I want to give it one last try before I spend that money.


ANYTHING you can help with would be very much appreciated. This is my DD and I would like to have it back on the road for tomorrow if at all possible.

BTW - many thanks to Heffenoche and this site for all the great info!
 

sleeoffroad

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Did you pull the drainplug to see if the little blue cap comes out. If you already have fluid in, you might want to drain it into a clean container so you can re-use it. Leaving it in there, well, that is pretty much up to you. Personally I think it will be chewed up pretty quick and should not hurt anything.

As for the rods, heat and a huge pipe wrench is pretty much the only way. Sometimes they move, sometimes they don't.
 

miked

 
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maybe pull the drain plug and use compressed air pumped into the fill hole at a VERY low setting so as to not blow out the seals. eh, never mind. how would you know how much pressure would hurt the seals?
 
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No fluid in the diff. I pulled the plug and tried feeling around in there both from the filler hole and the drain hole with a straightened coat hanger. Then I tried compressed air. Nothing (but I did get a bunch more of the old stuff out :) ).

One thought was to fill it with a non-water based liquid and then drain it, hoping it would come out. But I am thinking it may not. Other option is to fill, let it run a bit and then change the fluids. But since I am using synthetic, that is a bit expensive - although less than pulling the diff to get at the cap! What are the real down sides to leaving it in?

I have soaked the ends and tried to clamp the bar in a vise. I can't seem to get it in there snuggly, and I don't seem to have anything to really get hold of the end to turn it. I have tried heating with a MAPP gas torch, but haven't had much luck as of yet.

Cristo - If I just gave up and decided to get your heavy bars, how bad would shipping to 23059 be for both of them either next day or 2nd day?
 
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miked said:
maybe pull the drain plug and use compressed air pumped into the fill hole at a VERY low setting so as to not blow out the seals. eh, never mind. how would you know how much pressure would hurt the seals?
Good thought. I was worried about the seals too, but I figured with the drain hole open, it couldn't really build much pressure all the way down at the end of the axle.

Tried it and no luck.
 
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With a whole lot of patience, you might be able to use a long wire to push the cap to the drain plug if it doesn't flow out with the fluid. A wire like the ones used for hangers at the dry cleaners.

To remove the tie rod ends, we use 2 pipe wrenches to isolate the stress to the threaded area.


Kalawang
 

beno

Gihee Arakawa
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Buy the Slee rods/TRE's and be done with it....they are a huge improvement if you ask me...

You might just want to put some gear oil through and let it go right out the drain plug and see if this works.

As fas as I remember, that blue top thing on the quart container of M1 is just a piece of paper and some plastic. I doubt anything will happen to your gears because of that.....

Good luck.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
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sleeoffroad said:
Personally I think it will be chewed up pretty quick and should not hurt anything.

This is exactly what I was thinking.(course it is real easy to agree with the man) I wouldn't even stress about it. With synth. in there its going to be fine. The pieces will be so small when you change it again you wont even be able to tell.
 
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I'd give it some effort to try and remove the cap. Buy a gallon of cheap oil and put a quart in at at time, then drain it in a few cycles. Don't fill or put a lot in lest you float it out along the axles where it will sit when you drain it - keep it in the pumpkin area.

My reason for concern would be if you have lockers a chunk of the plastic might be able to lodge somewhere on or around the actuator and prevent its operation. If no lockers, I can't think of a thing to worry about - the thing's made of soft plastic and would simply be chewed to bits in about an hour's run time. One of the few times I'd be glad I had no lockers. Not.

DougM
 
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No lockers. Happy, but NOT.

I think I'll forget the cap for now.

I just bought to 24" pipe wrenches. If these dang ends don't come off this time, explosive devices will be next!!!!! (and purchasing Slee's rods, of course.)
 
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Well, with two 24" pipe wrenches, I have managed to remove 1 (ONE) end. That is in the last hour. Arms are hurting, running out of bad words to say :censor: and my family is tired of my attitude. Not to mention the HUGE marks that the wrenches are putting in the bars. If I can get the others out, it will probably take a few more hours at this rate. And one of the ends I was working on seems to have gone further into the rod, regardless of which way I turn it.

:crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby: :crybaby:

:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

I am usually one to try to save a buck or two, but I think I would have been MUCH MUCH better off just getting the bars in the first place, especially knowing the troubles others have had (go ahead Heffenoche, you are welcome to say I told you so! And I have pipe wrenches if you want to try removing the ends from your old bars).

So, I guess I'll be calling Slee first thing in the morning. Just hope he and UPS or Fed Ex will be gentle with me on quick shipping options.

Thanks for all the input.
 
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