Troopy headliner overhaul, turned out well.

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Oct 28, 2019
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So a few months ago i was inquiring about heat barrier material for my troopy ceiling. I eventually put a plan together, ordered the materials, and dove in. It came out well considering my amateur status, and i wanted to share the details in case it might help others dealing with this kind of thing.

Here's what i started with, no oem headliners, just some peeling foam backed headliner that some genius stuck to the metal with cheap contact cement. The midday panamanian sun said, "uh, i don't think so."

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So began the process of ripping out the old headliner (easy)...

Removing the crossbars (easy) after watching this great video:

Removing old contact cement... i cannot stress enough how nice it was to farm this out to an ex-employee. Worth every penny, it's slow, awkward work with industrial paint remover and a scraper (forget trying to just get the glue off, paint comes with it half the time). If you've got bad knees and a crappy back, get someone else to do it.

So you end up with this:

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My number one concern was having a heat barrier, not sound deadening. I decided on this expensive melamine foam, mainly because it had the highest temperature rating for the adhesive i could find (i wanted self-adhering). I do not want the tropical sun to undo all this work. Great stuff... Mega Zorbe™ - Hydrophobic Melamine Foam

So i began. Number one tip from here on out: DON'T BE IN A HURRY. Especially if you're a rookie. Measure twice, cut once. Rehearse how you're going to position the foam squares. Take your time, take breaks. This is fragile foam with insanely sticky adhesive that only sticks once. It can be a little nerve jangling, but if you take your time and rehearse without having taken the backing paper off, you'll do fine. Reading "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" can help here, psychologically. : )

So...

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and...

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At this point, the difference was huge. Way less heat transferring into the vehicle, and very noticeable sound dampening. This car was like driving inside a 55-gallon barrel before, now it was suddenly almost like a normal car.

Now to cover up that foam with foam backed headliner. After speaking with secondskin about my plans, i got ahold of two cans of 3M headliner adhesive spray:
Amazon product ASIN B072Q3SHVT
and a basic grey foam backed headliner: Amazon.com: Headliner Doctor Foam Backed auto Headliner Repair Fabric-Light Gray- 108"x60": Arts, Crafts & Sewing

I then cut the headliner into sections, measuring very carefully to make sure the seams would be under the cross bars. Again, take your time. I taped off the areas directly below the ceiling. With this 3m spray you really don't need to tarp anything off, the spray is very accurate and no adhesive went anywhere i didn't want it to go. Sprayed the ceiling and the headliner, section by section, waited for them to tack up (important!). Now, let's get to how i almost blew it right at the start, and now you don't have to!

I didn't know where to start sticking the headliner. i knew i wanted to start in the center, but on the flat above my head or into the gutter where the ceiling ends? Went into the gutter and things started doubling back and sticking to themselves. I retreated in a slight panic with just a little damage to the headliner and regrouped. Began again from the center, flat space above my head, and worked outward, pressing and flattening, eventually getting to the edges. Much, much better. There was a bit of material left over at the edge, so i just stuffed it down into the gutter and filled up that space a bit. Cutting a nice edge might be the pro way, but this seemed to work and is invisible. Good enough.

to be continued...

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And so i went...

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and done! The overall effect on heat and sound was absolutely worth the cost and effort. Forgot to mention i gave the crossbeams a nice coat of paint while they were off, very simple.

Some other stuff i learned:

-Make sure to remove any painter's tape and paper in the section you're working on before you stick the headliner on. The 3m adhesive wanted to stick like hell to the painter's tape and paper for some reason.

-Use a rolling pin to apply even, steady pressure to both the foam and the headliner once they're up there. Get that adhesive bonded, baby.

-With the larger sections of headliner, i literally tented the piece over my head and used my arms to keep things from sticking to each other. Then i just backed into the rear opening, sat, and scooched back into position.

-Getting the crossbars back in will be tougher now, since there's a bunch of material that needs to be compressed between the crossbar and the roof. Just use a large screwdriver in the rectangular slot where the screw holes are to lever up and line up the holes. Take your time.

Hope this helps someone. I know it was a bit unorthodox, but without the oem headliners i figured this might be the way. The biggest downside is having to work upside down. More reason to take breaks, have a beer or two, and take your time.
 
Was literally going to do this next week. Already have dynamat on the whole ceiling. I was going to use a thinsulate insulation like the Van life folks, but this Mega Zorbe looks like another great option. Both seem to be good at reducing noise and temperatures. @PhillipJFrye How many sheets of the Mega Zorbe did you end up using for the roof?
 
Nice write up! I got halfway thru the process and can't agree more with you on getting someone else to remove the old stuff. Did it myself and it took days of overhead arm numbing work. I used goo-be-gone, a LOT of it, and it does takeoff the paint as well. Once I had it all cleaned up, I put down a layer of dynamat and it made a huge sound difference. I ordered my headliner from the same place, but didn't like the color and sent it back. I never got a replacement or refund and dropped the project at that point because we moved to SC. Looking forward to finishing it off after I get the new engine!
 
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Was literally going to do this next week. Already have dynamat on the whole ceiling. I was going to use a thinsulate insulation like the Van life folks, but this Mega Zorbe looks like another great option. Both seem to be good at reducing noise and temperatures. @PhillipJFrye How many sheets of the Mega Zorbe did you end up using for the roof?
pretty sure i got the 40 sq ft. order. had about 2 sheets left over. i'll probably stick them in the front doors when i redo my interior panels and throw in sound deadener.

thinking... unless you live in a pretty hot climate, you might be ok with just the dynamat. from what i've seen that's what most people do... sound deadener then reinstall the oem headliners. i'm thinking also about you reinstalling the crossbeams. with the foam and the foam backed headliner, i was just barely able to reposition those things. with the additional layer of dynamat, it could be tough to compress all those layers between the crossbeams and the ceiling. best of luck!
 
Nice write up! I got halfway thru the process and can't agree more with you on getting someone else to remove the old stuff. Did it myself and it took days of overhead arm numbing work. I used goo-be-gone, a LOT of it, and it does takeoff the paint as well. OnceI had it all cleaned up, I put down a layer of dynamat and it made a huge sound difference. I ordered my headliner from the same place, but didn't like the color and sent it back. I never got a replacement or refund and dropped the project at that point because we moved to SC. Looking forward to finishing it off afterI get the new engine!
shoot, that blows about the headliner. not exactly pocket change, either. thanks for the kind words, and yeah, that first step of getting the paint/gunk off is rough. we used some stuff called "diablito" or something like that, who knows how safe it is. it bubbled everything up within a few minutes and then it was scrape, scrape. good luck on the new engine, and eventually the headliner.
 
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Good advice on the crossbeams. I was thinking it would be tight with just the dynamat and foam headliner, so you just saved me money and time! Thanks
I'll include it in the engine build thread when it's done.
 
BTW: What do you charge to have your employees remove headliner adhesive ? asking for a friend.
 
After trying Isopropal Alcohol (91% and 99%) without success, I moved on to Acetone. Spray bottle in one hand and a plastic scraper in the other and success!!
I wore a full Tyvek suit and respirator and goggles and gloves. Total time for the whole headliner was about 90 min. Make sure you put down a drop cloth. If you don't, when the headliner dries, it adheres to the floor. trust me I know. ugh.
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