Triple locked vs ARB lockers. Cost valuation before searching for new FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[dtnorc1]

Please feel free to direct me to another previous thread. I looked in the compiled threads.

I am searching for an FJS80 to purchase and begin building. I am curious about the triple locked vs ARB locker conversion. I am trying to do a cost analysis and see how much it is worth paying up for a triple locked model. Would like to ultimately run a 4" kit with 35s. I potentially have access to a 1994 with 285k miles through a family member with center locker only for 2-3K. Kansas no rust, leaky sunroof. But I am seeing some partial builds in the 7-8K range that are peaking my interest. Any advice on locker cost after install is appreciated.

 

[retrofive]

Stock e-locked:
Pros: They work
Cons: Age and well electrical side of things

ARB Lockers:
Pros: They work
Cons: Air leak possible, compressor and some wiring

I think if were going to do it again I probably go with harrop eaton elockers.

IMHO

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Going through this too, except I'm thinking Harrop instead of ARB. For the Harrops I'm looking at $1,700 with shipping to have the rear locker installed with new carrier bearings. I aasume the front is similar. So cost alone, a triple locked truck might be worth up to 4K more to you. On the other hand, if you buy an unlocked truck, you can install new parts instead of having 250K+ mile parts you paid a premium for. Of course if you can find a deal on a triple locked truck, the math changes. All my opinions of course.

Good luck !

Jason

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Harrops for several years in several trucks. This is the most trouble free option in my opinion. I've had ARBs and also like them very much, but every few years they need new internal O-rings, new compressors and other maintenance. I've never used factory lockers, but given that the newest ones are 23 years old, I'd be reluctant.

And remember, you can just do a rear locker to start with. If you find that isn't sufficient, then get a front locker.

 

[tplane2]

Posted this in a thread a while back. Early last year I believe. This is what ARBs ended up costing. They have performed well so far as well. Ran the Rubicon with no issues.

"Total cost from start to finish
940 for Front ARB
940 for Rear ARB, Free basic compressor.
250 for rear 4.88 gears (Nitro)
215 for front 4.88 gears
154 Ring and Pinion Install kit
130 Rings and Pinion Install kit
68 for Flange Kit (required)

800 for gear/locker install. I pulled the 3rds and dropped them off. It will cost you twice that if you drop your truck off. I checked around
200 for a front axle rebuild kit which you should probably go ahead and do while the diffs are out. Mandatory gaskets.

100 is random Auto Parts store things: Gear oil, grease, gasket maker, towels, etc. It definitely adds up.
100 in random tools i bought: wits end bushing tool, seal pullers, wire wheels etc.

Grand total of $3,897. Not counting a ton of your time."

 

[LINUS]

I’ve had/have 2 e-lock 80s, I’ve had ARB’s in the 450.

I fought a leak on my FR ARB too.

I 100% agree w/ @retrofive post.


If I was starting from scratch on a new 80, I’d go Harrop.

Unless you luck into a e-locked one that hasn’t been flogged, in that case it’s just frosting on a cake.

 

[Bludozer]

Aftermarket lockers are the way to go on these trucks at this point from both a financial and reliability stand point. The locked vs. unlocked market continues to widen and unless you are some collector obsessed with weird factory intricacies, I see little reason to pay thousands more for a factory locked truck. ARBs/Harrops/Rear auto lockers will all be less expensive, more reliable and decades newer than factory set ups. Hard to go wrong with any of the aftermarket options, though I agree with the others in that Harrops are the gold standard.

 

[Lumpskie]

Here's a video that I found interesting. Might want to look at TJM pro lockers too?



Fast forward to 3 minutes 45 seconds in this video... I don't know if this is just a one off or not

 

[retrofive]

So search a little on this; depends on your use as well. I ran a front stock e-locker (axle swap, but you can modify a non one) and aussie auto in the rear, cdl and 7pin mod. It suited me very well and a lot less costly.

 

[LINUS]

Quite a bit of truth in @retrofive ’s last post - esp about expanding as needed.

Frankly, I’ve locked my RR axle more times retrieving the boat from a certain “backwoods boat ramp” - than on any 4x4 trails.

I’d gotten most of my ‘get rowdy’ out of me in the 450, and I’m trying to ‘save’ the black 80.

But in full reality, having CDL & the RR locker has been enough most days - only twice it took the winch to a tree b/c of mud, and I went right to the winch over locking my steer axle since the trailer was behind me.

Point being, I’d sooner have a winch & CDL / pin 7 done before I worried about diff lockers if you don’t luck into a 80 with ‘em.
The black 80 has been buried to the diffs with all 4 wheels spinning, the winch was the only reason I was back on asphalt that afternoon.

But unless that 80 is in great shape & what you want - don’t pay any premium if the seller just uses the “10% got factory lockers” to justify a crazy price for a flogged example.

Everybody loves lockers, but a used Warn you refresh & a winch bumper would be my add after a CDL switch, pin 7 if you know why you are doing it / see a purpose in your useage.