cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
You get an acid in the system if the compressor packs it in. That's why it needs to be flushed. Otherwise the acid will destroy the new compressor as well.
Tried to get my A/C charged...
- Thread starter JLH911
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I'd use an A/C specific, solvent based flush. Best case use a flush gun, but you can pour the flush into the condenser inlet and force it thru with compressed air. The inner tube diameter is large enough that flushing is usually pretty effective-newer cars with small tubes are impossible to flush. If the flush comes out clean, you should be good to go. You could also blow out the liquid lines with flush or just compressed air, as they usually aren't a problem unless the dessicant bag came apart in the drier. As far as the oil goes, I'd drain the old stuff out of the compressor, and if you're flushing the condenser and replacing the drier, add 6oz of oil back in. It's all pretty simple stuff to do.
- Thread starter
- #43
I'll try this out and thanks for your help. Nice talking to you!
let's see what happens on Friday.
Nice talking to you too-let me know how it goes.
If you had two AC compressors could you use the vacuum side of one to vacuum out the other one? I'm thinking of an idea of trying to add a second one so one can be used as an air compressor/vacuum pump??
Me, too. Got the 134 in mine and it cools nicely.
However, HOWEVER, I do have a strange chirping noise coming from somewhere in the engine bay. It started a month or so after my 134 transplant.
Related? Not sure, really.I have a separate thread up about the chirp noise and a list of things to check.
Hmmmm.
That sounds like the noise of death mine has been making as it worked less and less effectively...
How hard should it be to turn the compressor wheel by hand?
How hard should it be to turn the compressor wheel by hand?
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
The compressor should not be too hard to turn by hand. Remember only the outer clutch is connected to the compressor shaft, the pulley is on a bearing and should spin freely until the A/C electric clutch kicks in and the clutch engages the pulley. If the pulley doesn't spin freely it's a bearing issue NOT a compressor issue. The compressor shaft has a weird pulse as you turn them from the innards as they move about, that is normal.
Why would you want to tie two compressors together? I cannot see the benefits of that. You might increase volume slightly in an air pump situation but other than that...
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no it's the outer compressor wheel I'm referring to... the pulley spins freely.
No I was just thinking if you had one hooked up as an air compressor and one attached to your AC system, could you not use one to vacuum out/fill the other? It's a really powerful air pump.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
You're thinking too much!! That is the EXACT reason why so many folks in latin America THINK they can use just a compressor to evacuate an A/C system. The problem is a compressor is NOT efficient enough. It will NOT get the system to 30" Hg which is REQUIRED to evacuate all the impurities. The best you can hope for with a compressor is about 26"Hg which is not enough.
- Thread starter
- #51
It's all relative-vacuum that is. More altitude=less vacuum.
Effects of Atmospheric Pressure on Vacuum Level
We're at 2500' and most shops can pull vacuum to 27" or so, using a 5+cfm pump. Basically, you want to remove air and moisture from the system, so by pulling vacuum, it allows the moisture in the system to boil, turning into vapor, and then it's removed by the vacuum pump. That's why it's important to pull deep vacuum for at least 45 minutes-more in humid areas.
Effects of Atmospheric Pressure on Vacuum Level
We're at 2500' and most shops can pull vacuum to 27" or so, using a 5+cfm pump. Basically, you want to remove air and moisture from the system, so by pulling vacuum, it allows the moisture in the system to boil, turning into vapor, and then it's removed by the vacuum pump. That's why it's important to pull deep vacuum for at least 45 minutes-more in humid areas.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I'm talking sea level. I used to live in Vancouver, B.C. 28"Hg is NOT enough at sea level. I can't say what might be required at altitude except to say that a compressor is NOT strong enough to get the required vacuum.
I absolutely agree! There's a reason they make vacuum pumps!
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
r134a molecules are SMALLER than r12 molecules AFAIK. thats the reason you should make new barrier wall hoses when converting older cars... to keep the molecules from permeating through the hoses...
As mentioned before, converting to r12 is straightforward, although, you should flush all the components to remove any residual mineral oil. Also, make sure you change the receiver/dryer.
The modern parallel flow condensors do work better for r134a than the old tube and fin style, but toyota condensors are of adequate design to work with r134a.
Where are the roadblock pics? I wanna see what we were all flustered about today ;p
time!
time!- Thread starter
- #57
Where are the roadblock pics? I wanna see what we were all flustered about today ;p
Click on this picture:
I took it in on Saturday after changing out the Expansion Valve on Friday. Took a while, but I'm glad I did it. It was the only component I hadn't either cleaned out or replaced.
Got it charged at this place where they also did a Vacuum check on it and it held for a while after it got to the proper level.
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I just had my AC changed over to 134a and it is blowing about 40 degrees. Works for me...
Though, when I am idling, there is not much cold air...
What gives??
Hey, can somebody toss me Cruiserdan's number? I need to order a tune up kit for my 60.
Thanks,
Emee
Though, when I am idling, there is not much cold air...
What gives??
Hey, can somebody toss me Cruiserdan's number? I need to order a tune up kit for my 60.
Thanks,
Emee
On the lack of cooling at idle, two things come to mind: lack of airflow thru the condenser, possibly a weak fan clutch, or the R134 conversion, possible overcharge.
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