Trany questions

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I know the guy that sold me this cruiser said it had a rebuilt trans and t-case but I probabbly ought to check the fluid levels. Problem is I don't know how. :'( Changing engine oil is easy because I have done it before. Any quick tips on changing transmission oil, levels, type of lube, the basics.

Its a standard 4 speed that shifts great. Seems really loud but I think that is just a cruiser thing ;). Thanks for the help.

Dan...the child who was raised by the non-mechanical father! :rolleyes:
 
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Should be a fill hole about half way up the on both cases. Fluid level should be even with that. At least that is what I have always been told.
 
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As phlyfisch sez. GL3 (or 5) 80/90 weight Gear Lube fluid up to the bottom of the fill holes; tranny on the driver's side; transfercase on the rear, driver's side.
 
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Thanks. I am sure its intuitive but it never hurts to ask. Do I need to "warm up" the tranny before I pull the plug? Do you need a funnel of some type to fill it up? :slap: I should shut up and go look at the friggin thing-except I have been stuck at for for going on 26 hours...8 to go :p Thanks
 
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If you have room (like on the rear dif) take the bottle of lube and pump it in. Alot of time you can't get a bottle next to the case, in that situation you can get a small manual pump to pump it up to the case. The end of the hose on the pump has a upside down "J" that hooks into the case and just pump untill a little oil spills out.
 
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You can get a little pump at NAPA or whereever and screw it into the top of a quart of gear lube. Then you pump it in like one of those soap dispensors. Kinda slow but if you aren't doing it all the time it works. For a bit more you can get the 5 gallon bucket of oil with a major duty pump. Incidentally, each of the filler and drain plugs have a little metal ring gasket. You can probably reuse them sometimes, but I have found that it is worth the trouble to replace them, to avoid spotty garage floors.

And yes, I would warm up the tranny/transfer if you are going to drain things. Gear oil is thick, especially if it is cold. If you want to drain it out completely, the warmer the better.
 
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Dan,
Pull the fill plug FIRST. That way if you need to fight with the fill plug you can still drive the truck. If you pull the drain first and then can't get the fill plug out.....
Also watch when you pull the fill plug out. If you get a lot of oil coming out you need to replace seals. Usually the tranny overfills and the transfer gets low when the seals blow.

btw My dad still doesn't know which end of a hammer to hold onto :D
 
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Cruiser guy:

Thanks for the tip. Notice your daughter drives a 55. I assume its an excuse to have another cruiser in the driveway but right on! :D If I were only a single man :D!!!

Here's to Cruiser Chics!!!! Ones who drive them fellas...not the CCOT bimbos :cheers:
 
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Well the '55 isn't exactly drivable yet. I'm in the process of removing the rusty roof (usual southern gutter rot) and replacing it with a solid roof from another '55 (that has the usual bottom up northern rot) so it's pretty heavy restoration. I hope to get it in for paint in the new year and after that comes the engine and interior. She may be driving it next summer if all goes well. She's in forestry so it won't be a mall 'Cruiser!
 
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Crusier guy... Dan correct?

Where are you at. I am looking for a paint guy and sounds like you know someone who wouldn't mind working on a 55. By the way, please don't paint your 55 the DNR green puke color!!
 
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It's Charles actually, you're Dan! :D
I'm way north of you in Canada, up at the north end of I-5. When our truck goes in for paint it'll be totally stripped so anyone can paint it. The thing I've been told is to make sure that the paint shop has a downdraft booth if you're getting a complete paint job.
 

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