Transmission pan gasket - sealant?

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San Anselmo, CA
Performing Rodney flush on my 88 FJ62 tomorrow - ordered new gasket for transmission pan from SOR. Combed forums as to whether to use sealant for new gasket - couldn't determine if there is a consensus?

I'm doing this work in my driveway - no torque wrenches (going with the old "tight is tight"). Thanks.
 
Pretty sure you want FIPG and no gasket on the trans. pan if you're going for OEM and I would recommend the appropriate torque wrench as well, it's inch pounds if my memory serves.
 
Not a good idea to use sealant on a ATM pan gasket.
You can smear a little grease to hold the gasket in place, but no sealant.
 
I just did this, and used the gasket with no FIPG and it is nice and dry. I used the OEM gasket.
 
As far as I know the a440f has no OEM gasket.
 
It does have a gasket, only the a442f and later have no gasket, and use FIPG

Not true, I know the a440 80 series variant uses FIPG, I guess I can't speak for the FJ62 version.
 
Yeah, but you said a442 and later have no gasket!
 
The problem with FPIG is that it takes much longer than the suggested 24hrs to fully cure.

Not an issue when assembling a brand new ATM at the factory, but in the field we don't always have 24+ hours to let it cure before adding fluid and sending the customer on the way.

Regardless if 60 or 80 series, if there is a gasket available I prefer to use it even if the original was FPIG.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have an OEM gasket, and I'll skip the sealant. Project will have to wait for a couple of days, but I'll update thread when complete. One thing: is it a big mistake not to use torque wrench for this? Not something I have in my arsenal, but want to do the job right. Thanks.
 
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Most torque wrenches are not very accurate at such a small value of 7 N/m for the pan bolts.

For small bolts like that you need a small torque wrench, or just snug them up evenly by hand.

tohnichi.webp
 
62 tranny gasket

Where is the best place to get the tranny filter and gaskets? OEM seems a bit steep to me, but don't know if the aftermarket suppliers sell a good gasket and filter.
 
I would get the OEM pan gasket and OEM strainer gasket, and reuse the factory strainer. It doesn't clog or wear out, unless abused in some way. The 'strainer' (filter) is just fine wire screen in a steel frame - there is no 'filter media' like a domestic/US vehicle filter. I think I paid $22 for both gaskets, with discount.

You might also get the o-ring for the trans dipstick, which engages the pan. I forgot to order that part. The last part you might want is a new drain plug gasket.
 
Whats the difference between the 80 series a440 and the 62 series A440? If the 80 A440 uses FIPG, why cant you use FIPG on the 62 series A440?

(I replaced an OEM gasket on a 62 A440 and it was a RPITA trying to get it to stay in place while bolting up the pan. I was on the ground without much room under the truck, so that definitely made it harder.)
 
Cork gasket, put it in dry (giggity), make absolutely sure the bolts are torqued correctly. With cork gaskets proper torque is critical or you'll squash sections of it and create leaks. As the fluid soaks into the gasket it'll expand slightly and form a proper seal. I've never had a transmission pan leak on me when I've used a cork gasket.

Rubber on the other hand is no bueno (A904s used rubber gaskets and mine leaked more often than not).
 
Whats the difference between the 80 series a440 and the 62 series A440? If the 80 A440 uses FIPG, why cant you use FIPG on the 62 series A440?

(I replaced an OEM gasket on a 62 A440 and it was a RPITA trying to get it to stay in place while bolting up the pan. I was on the ground without much room under the truck, so that definitely made it harder.)

The FJ80 A440 has a different oil pan than an FJ62 A440
 
Just adding an update. While I've done various body and interior projects on this rig, this was the first time that I have tackled anything substantive beneath the hood. I'm noting this for those who haven't jumped in - between the FSM, this board, the Yahoo! 3FE group and YouTube (and a quick check by a mechanic), even those with little experience can successfully tend to their 60 series.

In the end, I changed the oil, the oil filter, the radiator, and performed a Rodney flush of the ATF. My vehicle was non-operational, and with some cash outlay for parts + my time, she's back on the road - driving as well as ever.

Everything went well (not necessarily smoothly), and full disclosure, I had to take it to Mudrak to have Gary do a pressure test on the radiator. (I had a small leak that I couldn't identify - turned out to be a lower radiator hose that had deteriorated to the point that it could no longer hold the pressure despite proper clamping.)

Biggest things I learned: eye protection and coveralls are key; be realistic with your time estimation; even when you think you have all your parts/tools, you'll probably encounter some issues (I had to drill out a broken bolt amongst other things); the filler neck of CSF radiators can easily get damaged during shipping (ended up using 1800Radiator - best price and delivered in under 2 hours!); per Mudrak, always change the radiator cap when installing a new radiator; Rodney flush is straightforward and works wonders - burnt smelling ATF is gone and vehicle is shifting smoothly; don't discharge AC when changing radiator - just remove bolts and lower condenser to gain access to rad bolts; finally, there's no more satisfying feeling than fixing something yourself!

Radiator.webp
 

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