Transmission fluid help for a non-mechanic (1 Viewer)

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May 26, 2022
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Hoping I can get a little help here as I haven't found a thread that directly answers my (kinda stupid) questions.

- I am not a mechanic at all, but I was able to replace my cracked radiator in my 2013 Land Cruiser with a new one.
- I tried clamping the transmission lines before disconnecting them from the radiator, but the cheap clamps failed.
- I was able to collect the leaking transmission fluid so that I can measure how much is needed to replace it (about 12 fl oz).
- I installed the new radiator and have all the hoses/lines reconnected.
Here's my questions:
- I understand I need to replace the lost transmission fluid with the same amount of new fluid (closed transmission, no dipstick or fill spout). Any concerns with mixing new WS fluid with the old fluid that's in there?
- I believe all I would need to do is take off the guards and locate the fill plug, then use a hose/pump to fill with the needed amount of replacement fluid - right?
- What about air in the cooling lines? How does that escape? Am I ok to just replace the fluid or is there something special I need to do to allow air to escape the lines?
- I'm not planning to do a full flush as that looks pretty complicated (for my skill level, based on watching this video ). Is that a bad decision? It doesn't seem like Toyota service would do much different anyway - they don't appear to do full flush/replacement when they provide transmission service.

Thanks for any help/advice you can provide.
 
We've all started somewhere. Great job on tackling the project and not being satisfied with it being done correctly until all of your questions are answered!

There's the volume of what was collected and then there's the volume of what was left in the radiator. I believe it's just a looped metal tube, just not sure if anything can be trapped. While it's not like a trans pan that holds several qts there's still the potential that some volume isn't accounted for. You also do not know that the level was set correctly prior to your radiator replacement. If low you could be compounding a problem.

The best procedure is to get a bootleg of Techstream and get the trans to the specified temp range then add fluid until it starts to overflow out the fill port. The fill process is done with the engine running, in neutral, and in a narrow temp range due to the expansion properties of hydraulic fluid at temperature. Further, if you're over 100k and/or it's been more than 60k since the last fluid exchange this would be a great opportunity to simply do a complete flush. If you don't feel comfortable with the procedure then it would be money well spent to have it done.

Regarding coolant, there is no burping procedure other than to check it after the job is complete. Open the radiator cap only when cool and make sure coolant is completely covering the fins. It doesn't need to be at the brim of the neck, just full. If that is good then use the overflow tank to modulate fill level. When hot you're shooting for it to be near the top bar. The system will suck in any required coolant from the overflow to keep the radiator full. Make sure to run both front and rear hvac controls on 'hot' to ensure everything is circulated. The only other advice I'd give is that if over 100k you should do complete coolant exchange which involves opening the block drains to get as much out as possible. You want to avoid the SLLC from becoming acidic and gnawing away at engine bits. A full trans and coolant exchange would be high on my list of preventative maintenance items.
 
If you have replaced the radiator, you can no longer call yourself a "non-mechanic". ;)

It's fine to use new WS when replacing what was lost. To be honest, once you've figured out how to get the replacement fluid in the transmission, you've done the hard part of a drain and fill, so at least consider getting a few quarts (however much the 6 speed takes for a drain and fill) and do that at the same time. I suggest (strongly) you take the time to get the fluid level correct, after whatever you do. It's not that hard and can be done with or without Techstream. Good threads on here about that. Air the trans cooling lines will clear automatically.
 
that is just a guess
 
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Thank you all for the replies - very helpful and helping me figure out a plan, I appreciate it very much.
 
I’d also argue out of the 12 quarts in the transmission losing 12oz is pretty inconsequential.

Very rough calculation, but you’re talking less than 1/4” of level change based on a quick guess of the pan dimensions.
 
I’m working on a flush but have a couple problems

1) the overflow plug is wrenched super tight and I can’t seem to budge it lose. Haven’t tried big leverage yet, but also don’t want to rip it out too hard. Any spray or other ricks I can do to help loosen it?

2). I understand I need to push in and secure the thermostat button so that flush can flow through. I have no idea how anyone can fit their hands in to be able to push in that button, much less also get a second hand in to slide a paper clip in. Any tips?

Thanks
 
I’m working on a flush but have a couple problems

1) the overflow plug is wrenched super tight and I can’t seem to budge it lose. Haven’t tried big leverage yet, but also don’t want to rip it out too hard. Any spray or other ricks I can do to help loosen it?

2). I understand I need to push in and secure the thermostat button so that flush can flow through. I have no idea how anyone can fit their hands in to be able to push in that button, much less also get a second hand in to slide a paper clip in. Any tips?

Thanks
Long flathead screwdriver to push the button, and I use a long pair of 90-degree needle nose pliers to drop the drill bit into the through hole from the top.

Oh the fill/overflow plugs.. I’d go buy a spare before you go too far. 90341-10011 for the 12mm standard head, 90341-10021 for the Allen head. I can’t remember off-hand which is drain and which is level check.
 

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