Transmission Filter

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M

mercara

Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Threads
5
Messages
33
Location
New Jersey
Hello,

My 2002 TLC is due for a 60K service in the next couple of months. I was thinking of doing the transmission flush until I read a few posts on this boar recommending against this. I will go with a Fluid Exchange instead. When I did the 30K mile service on my 2000 RAV4 the dealer suggested to replace the transmission oil filter for $175K. Is there a transmission oil filter? Should I have this replaced when I do the fluid exchange?

Thanks in advance.
 
The 100 uses a screen, not a filter. I've been told by an honest mechanic at the dealer, you don't need to clean the screen until at least 150K miles. I hope this is correct. It seems to make sense, given that it is a screeen, not a filter.
 
hkeller said:
The 100 uses a screen, not a filter. I've been told by an honest mechanic at the dealer, you don't need to clean the screen until at least 150K miles. I hope this is correct. It seems to make sense, given that it is a screeen, not a filter.
Click to expand...

I doubt the screen will ever have anything substantial in it unless the tranmission has already experienced a serious problem.
 
Yes, there is a screen, but no filter. I just replaced mine a week ago at 110k miles. Nothing really on the screen itself, but the metal filter housing had a very light coating of the same very fine particles that precipitate on the pan. If for peice of mind more than anything else, I would recommend dropping the pan and cleaning it and all the little magnets very well every 50-60k miles, and while you're in there, replacing the filter is a piece of cake.

-Luis Marques
 
hkeller said:
Huh. I wonder if that is just the screen for sale, or if I am mistaken and there is a true filter. Anybody know?
Click to expand...

Don't know if it is just a screen or contains filter media too. Here's the best picture I could find: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZHHM/?tag=ihco-20
The Toyota version retails for $50 and online price is $40 and aftermarket is $35. Seems expensive for just screen wire. Someone needs to replace one and cut the old one open.
 
My dealer technician has told me the transmission screen is essentially a lifetime part. Changing the fluid regularly is all that is needed (about 30K miles).
 
Fliter & Flush on High Milage Transmission

Time to wake this old thread.

I've just hit 150,000 miles and considering if a transmission filter change or rather if cleaning is advisable?

In reading through many threads on the question of cleaning filter and pan. They've been somewhat ambiguous and the issue was mostly contemplated sometime ago with lower miles than we have today. Now with many over 150,000, 250,000 and even 400,000 miles I'm wonder what is the opinion on this now.

Is it a good idea or more trouble than it worth?

______________________________________
History:

I've been flush with 12+ qt of ATF since I bought at ~60K. A dealer did my first flush, records show they put in BG transmission flush and used 12qt.

The next flush at ~100K on odometer I DIY with 12+qt of M1 synthetic multi-vehicle ATF. I liked the smoother shifting and quite operation, but notice a 5% drop in gas millage. Since the M1 ATF has a higher viscosity I suspected this was the main cause of my mpg drop. Worth mentioning; I changed all fluids (oil, gear lubes, greases, coolant, plugs & TB) at that time from Castrol syn & what ever to all Mobil 1 synthetics.

At 136K on odometer I flushed again, this time I used the newer Dexron Mobil VI ATF a blended synthetic, which has a lower viscosity than the M1 full synthetic ATF. I made the switch to see if my MPG would improved, which it did but only by .5% (1/2 of 1%). Additionally; it's not been as smooth shifting and I notice a little slippage; while almost coming to stop but letting off brake early and then accelerating. I've decided to go back to the M1 Full synthetic earlier than my scheduled maintenance calls for to see if it will improve the "D vibration" and since the full synthetic felt smoother. Although the 44k, TB cleaning, air filter change & 30 min battery disconnect to reset ECU has eliminated 98% of "D vibration"
 
Last edited:
Drain ATM.

Drop pan. Have lots of ATF fall onto face and body.

Clean pan, clean magnets. Clean off FIPG from flange face.

Clean ATM housing flange face.

Drop ATM filter assy. Use brake cleaner and clean it out.. Clean the clutch pack material from filter.

Clean everything with brake cleaner.

Do not spray lower valve body.

Put FIPG on pan and install new o-ring on drain plug and dipstick tube.

Bolt filter back into place.

Put pan up, set into place, put a couple of bolts in. Put rest of bolts in. Don't torque down bolts too much.

Sit back and drink a few beers. Fill with ATF. Start up, let it warm up and see if you put enough ATF in tranny.

Drive away.
 
Thanks, beno I've got some FIPG that's been setting in my garage for years. With temperature thru the seasons running from -10 to 110 F, is it still useable?
 
beno. I'm counting you as a yes vote, anyone else have and opinion on cleaning Transmission filter & pan?
 
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