Transfer Case Strange Whirring Noise/Gear Whine (1 Viewer)

[DiscoCam]

OK so as promised, I did try 75W-140 in the transfer case. I used Lucas Oil Synthetic because that's what Amazon had. Honestly, I don't think it made any difference. At first I thought maybe it was a bit quieter, but the difference is so small that I might have just been imagining it. I made sure to get the transfer case up to temperature too and even then there was really no difference. I don't think it's worth it to use fluid not recommended by Toyota for just a tiny bit of noise difference. Nothing abnormal on the drain plug magnet either btw.

So TLDR, makes no difference. I have switched it back to Mobil 1 75W-90, which is also what I have in the axles, and have come to the conclusion that whatever noise this thing has is probably normal and I'm just nitpicking.

FWIW I think the most important thing with 4WDs, especially if they see off road use, is to use a GL5 oil and change it often. In my experience, Mobil 1 75W-90 seems to do really well in the variety of 4WDs that I've used it in. Doesn't turn dark, very minimal metal shavings, and minimal gear whine (well most of the time).

Anyway, I'm out of ideas for now. I will update the thread if I find anything in the future.

 

[DiscoCam]

I have just replaced my transmission mount and the noise has reduced a good amount. Still there, but quieter for sure.
I wanted to use an OEM mount but it didn't work with my timeline, so I got an aftermarket one and it seems good so far.

 

[Tachycardic]

Where did you buy the transmission mount? Were you able to install it without removing anything?

 

[DiscoCam]

Where did you buy the transmission mount? Were you able to install it without removing anything?

I bought it on eBay from Protier mounts. Probably made in China but honestly the quality is pretty good; has to be better than the 25 year old one I had

Super easy to install. I had a floor jack at the bottom of the transfer case and I just unbolted the crossmember from the frame and transmission. Took my about 45 minutes, and I took my time.
You will need a deep 17mm socket for the two studs on the bottom of the mount.

 

[Tachycardic]

Awesome thanks! I think I will do this as I have the same issue as you and replacing the gear oil in the differentials and transfer case didn't improve the howling. It'll be my last step before I start replacing bearings I guess...

 

[BILT4ME]

Awesome thanks! I think I will do this as I have the same issue as you and replacing the gear oil in the differentials and transfer case didn't improve the howling. It'll be my last step before I start replacing bearings I guess...

If you have time, you can save a bunch on a Toyota part through Partsouq.com I buy all rubber products through them, as they are MUCH less for delivered price than the other US Toyota dealerships.

 

[fjbj40]

My xfer was whining badly, at least I think it is the xfer. So I added 75/140, seemed to quiet it down, a bit.
Removed front driveshaft and it is quiet. Still does not eliminate the xfer but told it is probably front dif. So it’s cheaper to rebuild dif than xfer so I am going to try that!
286,000 miles on truck so it’s time for diff rebuild imop.

 

[Tachycardic]

I'm right behind you at 283k miles. Please create a new post on what you do to the diff. Will be very interested in that!

 

[fjbj40]

I'm right behind you at 283k miles. Please create a new post on what you do to the diff. Will be very interested in that!

Will do it in my build thread.

 

[DiscoCam]

Wanted to update this thread a bit.
So I have installed new engine mounts, transmission mount, and exhaust mounts. My truck feels very smooth now. Still hear some gear whine. But in looking at some other threads and doing some more research it seems that gear whine is not uncommon in the 80.

Overall, I'm very happy with the vehicle as it stands. But I am wondering. At what point should I be concerned about the gear whine? If there is a problem, I would assume its either Rings&pinions or TC output bearings or pinion&carrier bearings. When, if I need to, should I start tearing stuff down again?

In the 4k miles that I've owned this, the noise has not changed at all.

 

[ccslider]

I'd recommend the 2wd conversion. That will keep your front diff from spinning while on road.

When you drive with the CDL locked you're putting a lot of strain on the front diff when making slow turns like when you're in a parking lot. Think like an old 4x4 style.

 

[DiscoCam]

I'd recommend the 2wd conversion. That will keep your front diff from spinning while on road.

When you drive with the CDL locked you're putting a lot of strain on the front diff when making slow turns like when you're in a parking lot. Think like an old 4x4 style.

I did always feel like it might be the front end as well. Not too sure.

Part time has always been an idea I have been thinking about but I'm not sure.

On another note, I was thinking maybe swapping the L & R birfields might do something? When the VC was locked up, the birfs would click when turning sharp (like a u turn). Also the front right spindle bushing was no longer press fit in the spindle, so I replaced that bushing with a genuine one a while back. The driver side was fine.

I am thinking maybe I should swap the birfield joints and change out my spindles to the updated needle bearing style bushing? LMK what you guys think. Not even sure if it's worth the effort, mess, and ~$300 for 2 new spindles but I am interested to hear your opinions.

Also, about a week ago I finally changed the fluid in my blue hub fan clutch and got it dialed to turn on around 185F; haven't seen temps about 190F. With that said, I can't hear the whine at all when the fan is on lol.

 

[ccslider]

Your clicking birfs will not fix the whine.

Swapping side to side might fix the clicking birfs. I'd plan on new birfs. I went through the same issue and after swapping them, they still clicked. I bought rcvs and moved on.

Try removing the front shaft like others suggested to see if the whine is still present.

 

[DiscoCam]

Your clicking birfs will not fix the whine.

Swapping side to side might fix the clicking birfs. I'd plan on new birfs. I went through the same issue and after swapping them, they still clicked. I bought rcvs and moved on.

Try removing the front shaft like others suggested to see if the whine is still present.

To clarify, birfs clicked only when the VC was locked up. Been 4k miles since then with no birf noises.

I have removed both shafts (1 at a time) and I haven't gotten any definitive results one way or another.

I inspected my front wheel bearings today and noticed a few things:
- Both drive flanges have play in them. A good amount. Not sure why I missed this before, or it got significantly worse in a few months. Likely my mistake.
- Wheel bearings seem OK, but they are a no name brand that PO put in so I am going to switch them to Koyo
- spindles looking a little worse for wear, but not something that I think would cause a sound. Going to replace with the needle bearing type

I don't think any of these items would cause the whine. But I am going to replace them just so I know what's in there.

FWIW rear wheel bearings are Koyo IIRC, might even be original. No wear on them at all and the preload was fine so I am going to leave those as is.

I will do some more investigating tomorrow.

 

[hikermike]

That button to the left is an aftermarket centerlock differential lock button...why did noone else point this out. That was an option on that year landcruiser. those that didn't pay the extra $1200 just didn;t get the switch on the dashboard. The wiring and equiptment were installed. Many came to realize this and installed a switch themselves. Someone may have been driving this truck for years in locked mode. Lucky no accidents or roll overs!

 

[DiscoCam]

I found an interesting thread that @Kernal had started a while back: Running heavier weight gear oil?

Seems to describe the same noise I have, and thankfully it was updated recently with some results. I just ordered 4 of those Liqui-Moly gear oil additives, should come in tomorrow. About $10 on Amazon with some promising reviews as well. Going to put 2 tubes in each diff. Fingers crossed it quiets down a bit.

The most interesting part of the thread is that the update was about 8 years after the original post, so I assume that means that there weren't any mechanical problems over that time, just some whine. If that's the case, putting in this additive is probably as far as I go. I just need the truck to be reliable; I can deal with some noise.

 

[Kernal]

I may have gotten lucky with my rear diff, the noise is still there but maybe half or less of what it used to be (my hearing has probably also gotten worse so that's a factor).

Do you have any leaks from the pinion seal?

 

[DiscoCam]

I may have gotten lucky with my rear diff, the noise is still there but maybe half or less of what it used to be (my hearing has probably also gotten worse so that's a factor).

Do you have any leaks from the pinion seal?

No leaks at either pinion, no play in either pinion.

The noise has not gotten worse, so I am not too worried. For $40, I feel like the additive is worth a shot.

 

[DiscoCam]

So I tried that Liqui Moly additive. 2 tubes in each diff, 1 tube in the transfer case. It changed nothing. So either the diffs are all fine or so far gone that the additive can't do anything.

Just finished front wheel bearings, drive flanges, and spindles with the updated needle bearing bush. Truck is definitely smoother, but there's still a whirring noise.
The wheel bearings were not bad, but they were a mix of brands, so I just replaced them all with new Koyo bearings.

Drive flanges have a much tighter fit on the hub, but I still notice some play with the birfield. Still better than the original drive flanges.
Spindle bushing looks terrible on the driver side. I feel good about changing to the needle bearing style.

I found a thread that mentioned the rear drive shaft slip joint being worn and causing this whirring noise, but I can't seem to find the thread now. I can see how this might be possible on mine but idk. Maybe I have too much grease in the rear DS; gonna go see if I can get some out.

So that's where I'm at now. Again, as long as it doesn't get worse, I can live with it. But if someone has an idea as to what it may be, lemme know .

 

[DiscoCam]

I just pulled off the rear drive shaft, and I finally found something.

The rear TC output flange has a good amount of play in it; I can move it in and out maybe about +/- 2mm. So I am pretty sure that's the culprit. Not sure why I missed this before, probably my fault. I am a bit embarrassed that I didn't catch this earlier...

So I could do a couple things to get this fixed:
1. Order a new bearing, pull off the rear of the case, replace the bearing.
2. Find a used transfer case, swap in the rear housing (then I get a good used bearing and get the VC back)
EDIT: There's a couple 200k TCs on eBay for ~$350 shipped
3. Order a new bearing, find a good used VC, R&R

Let me know what you guys think. Thank you everyone for the help on this, I think we finally got it!