Yank the front drive shaft, lock the center diff and tell us how it does.
transfer case repair/swap help (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter livelarg
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
thanks IDAHODOUG for the in-depth description. I think I was having trouble picturing how to do it is because I have aisen manual locking hubs up front. Will i need to take off these hubs to check it?
So supposing all of you are right, so how cheap and how easy a fix is it? and more importantly, how?
thanks again.
Kent
So supposing all of you are right, so how cheap and how easy a fix is it? and more importantly, how?
thanks again.
Kent
I just bought a drive flange from cdan for about $50 after shiping and taxes, if thats all it is.
But since you have manual locking hubs, i don't know if this applies. I don't think you have a drive flange, your manual hub takes its place. It just might be your cheap chinese manual locking hubs that are trashed. You would then have to buy a new set i would imagine, and if thats the case you might want to stick with warn.
I would take the manual hubs off regardless, so you can inspect them. If one was trashed, I imagine you would show the same symptoms.
But since you have manual locking hubs, i don't know if this applies. I don't think you have a drive flange, your manual hub takes its place. It just might be your cheap chinese manual locking hubs that are trashed. You would then have to buy a new set i would imagine, and if thats the case you might want to stick with warn.
I would take the manual hubs off regardless, so you can inspect them. If one was trashed, I imagine you would show the same symptoms.
Are you still AWD?? If so why the manual hubs?
- Thread starter
- #25
Are your hubs locked currently, more importantly, were your hubs locked when you heard the noise?
You could try this, unlock your hubs, put the vehicle in high gear, and make sure your center diff is off(not locked). Then gingerly try it out.
If it runs fine, your hubs may be the culprit. But I think you still gotta take them off and look at them.
You could try this, unlock your hubs, put the vehicle in high gear, and make sure your center diff is off(not locked). Then gingerly try it out.
If it runs fine, your hubs may be the culprit. But I think you still gotta take them off and look at them.
do that
Oooh. Didn't know the drivetrain's been altered like that. No idea what's going on in that case. First I'd drain the differential fluids one at a time into a clear container so you can see if metal shavings come out. Obviously repeat with the transmission as well.
DougM
DougM
I still think it could be the aftermarket hubs. They replace the drive flange, and if the aftermarket hubs are shot(likely), the symptoms would be the same. I bet if you are lucky, you could take the aftermarket cheapo manual hubs off and replace with 2 new drive flanges for fiffffty dollars each and be good. I don't know how manual hubs mount up on the cruisers, but i thought it was pretty much a straight forward swap.
Try the test out, unlock the hubs and take it for a spin. How do you like the 2 wheel drive version? Do you want to keep it now livenlarge? If not i'll take it off your hands, I'll even give you a free tour of my holy garage
Try the test out, unlock the hubs and take it for a spin. How do you like the 2 wheel drive version? Do you want to keep it now livenlarge? If not i'll take it off your hands, I'll even give you a free tour of my holy garage
- Thread starter
- #30
YOU ARE ALL TITANS AMONG MEN!!!!!!
Thanks to all of you , I have saves a huge amount of money, time and headache (due to the spending huge amounts of money). After I finally got it through my thick skull it's not the transfer case, I started looking at the spline idea, then my aftermaket hubs. And sure enough, it is the hubs that are at fault.
I did what TENZIG NORGAY told me to do (congrats on being the REAL first man up everest!) and put it in HI and locked the Center diff. sure enough it worked.
When that worked, I remembered that the all wheel drive didnt work when I first bought the truck 5 years ago, and fixing the hubs mad it all work great.
It also doesn't "clunk" now.
So now looking for new drive flanges, then back in business.
THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR INVALUABLE HELP AND PATIENCE!!!
Kent
Thanks to all of you , I have saves a huge amount of money, time and headache (due to the spending huge amounts of money). After I finally got it through my thick skull it's not the transfer case, I started looking at the spline idea, then my aftermaket hubs. And sure enough, it is the hubs that are at fault.
I did what TENZIG NORGAY told me to do (congrats on being the REAL first man up everest!) and put it in HI and locked the Center diff. sure enough it worked.
When that worked, I remembered that the all wheel drive didnt work when I first bought the truck 5 years ago, and fixing the hubs mad it all work great.
It also doesn't "clunk" now.
So now looking for new drive flanges, then back in business.
THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR INVALUABLE HELP AND PATIENCE!!!
Kent
If you yank the front drive shaft you shouldn't do anymore damage, and won't be out of business until it's time to tend to business.
Super sweet, we'll keep our fingers crossed for you and lets hope thats all it is.
- Thread starter
- #34
I have to ask a couple of more questions to all of you cruiser' guru's.
First, what will it take to replace the AISIN hubs with the factory splines/axle end?
and also a little more diagnostic help. I took off the end of the aisin hubs and manually locked in the front axles, then put it back together. It drove fine. But the "clunking" is still there, and pretty bad. But I now know that it only "clunks" in HI gear on the transfer case. When I switch into LO, or push the center diff lock, the "clunking" stops. Would this have to do the front axles too? or is something elso out of whack?
Thanks again for all the help
Kent
First, what will it take to replace the AISIN hubs with the factory splines/axle end?
and also a little more diagnostic help. I took off the end of the aisin hubs and manually locked in the front axles, then put it back together. It drove fine. But the "clunking" is still there, and pretty bad. But I now know that it only "clunks" in HI gear on the transfer case. When I switch into LO, or push the center diff lock, the "clunking" stops. Would this have to do the front axles too? or is something elso out of whack?
Thanks again for all the help
Kent
I'm not positive, but i think if you buy two new drive flanges, and maybe the cone washers and nuts that attach them, you can take the asian hubs off and just slide the new drive flange on, replace the c clip that holds the axle in place, and replace cone washers and nuts. I guess you'll also need 2 grease caps as well, those go on the drive flange over the axle end.
As far as the clunking goes, it could still be the asian hubs since the clunking disappears when you lock the diff. How many miles do you have on the vehicle. If the clunking is due to high milage and neglected front end service, the repair cost could be pricey to have someone else do it. Its prob the hubs though?
Look at the front end rebuild FAQ, it has great pictures and you can see how the drive flange is attached instead of your manual hub.
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks for info. I cant seem to find the front end faq with pictures, can you guide to the right area?
Thanks
First page of the 80-Section:
FAQ for 80/LX450 - July 24, 2008 - Added LSPV Modification
====> Maintenance/Trail Fix items
========>Front Axle/Birf Rebuild
You should familiarize yourself with the 80-Section FAQ and the contents. There is a lot of information. You don't have to read it all right now but you should have a good understanding of what information is there and how that information is organized. You will FREQUENTLY be referred to the FAQ.
-B-
