Transfer Case Indicator still not working (1 Viewer)

[Hants]

After a trip to Sears to purchase a 27mm wrench, I removed the old switch and tested both old and new with my multimeter. Old tested bad (open/high ohms), New tested good (open/closed).

I installed the New switch -- still no happy light on the dash

Came back in and reSEARCHed... removed New switch and reinstalled without the washer per an old thread. (I only slightly tightened it, as I was just testing.) -- no happy light

Retested the plug by shorting with a paperclip -- ABS & CDL lights on dash!

Turned on truck again and shifted in to L -- no lights

Removed New switch and reinstalled WITH washer (I wasn't comfortable with the extra 1MM "insertion").

Took truck for a test drive to a dirt lot -- no matter how many circles (F & R), still no light!

It is my understanding that the CDL is immediate when shifting into low, and no driving should be necessary (unlike the RR/FF).

Any ideas or suggestions for further diagnosis?

I have the FSM, but I a zero , so I am probably missing something obvious.

 

[Gold Finger]

Hants,

You could remove the switch connect it up to the harness and operate the ball plunger at the end, get a mate to tell you if the light is operating and take it from there.

 

[Hants]

Update:

I've tested both the old and new sensors on the truck (old is indeed bad, new is good).

I've installed the CDL switch, and done the Pin 7 mod. While doing the Pin 7 mod, I tested continuity of the Transmission/Diff Lock Relay per FSM. All the tests without power tested fine.

How does one "apply battery positive voltage between the terminals"?

Assuming the Relay is good, next step is to test the "Motor Actuator Side". It appears that this on top of the actuator, and I can't get my hands up there.

Please tell me I don't have to remove the transfer case to do this

Hants

 

[bjowett]

Hants, you may need to drive it a little to get things to lock. With that said, I had a bad actuator motor on my truck. If you need to access or remove your's, place a floor jack under your t-case crossmember, undo the eight bolts and lower the whole drivetrain assembly down a few inches. This will give you plenty of room to get your hands up in there. There are 4 bolts that hold the piece in there, one is well hidden. Last, make sure to sync the motor up properly when reinstalling....

 

[Hants]

Hants, you may need to drive it a little to get things to lock.

Thanks Brian & CDan!

They're working now (all 3 of them).

Took out to a dirt field an drove around and around with the CDL on/off. Must have been stuck due to "neglect of the PO"

Tested the Front & Rear, and they clicked right in (with the normal delay)!