Transfer case Fill Plug Stripped??? (1 Viewer)

[Racehoss]

I've read some other posts about the stripped fill plug but none of the suggestions have worked. Here is a picture of what I'm dealing with. Chisel and hammer don't budge this plug. Why in the Hell would this be so damn tight? I'm afraid the aluminum case body will crack trying to loosen this thing. A friend suggested grinding the entire top off and then spinning it out but I'm afraid of scaring up the case body and the new plug might not get a good seal.

Help.

 

[KLF]

If you have access to a welder, you can weld a nut or bolt to it, just a few quick tacks should do it. The heat will also help free it up. Then spin it out with the new fastener.

 

[Racehoss]

Are you saying get something like a drain plug and tack it to the face of the stripped plug. Then put the wrench on the drain plug ......

I can try that but I would think whacking it with a big chisel and big hammer enough to shear off part of the face would be more than the new bolt. I don't know. Something is really keeping it tight. Maybe the welding heat will help like you said.

 

[H8PVMNT]

I welded a peice of bar stock to mine and use the bar stock for the wrench... Then after grinding the tacks off I could just spin it out with my fingers. The heat really helps. The chisel method can work but the fill plugs are so soft sometimes it's just not enough.

 

[Racehoss]

H8PVMNT, did you booger up the case itself? Did the new plug seat pretty well against the scarred up area?
Thanks,
Carter

 

[Pluton]

1>Drill it and then use a reverse twist bolt remover
2>Dremel a nice slot into it, then remove with a BF Screwdriver.
Note: Buy replacement fill plug FIRST.

 

[WristPin]

what KLF is saying is find any fastener of your choosing nut, bolt, hell even an old socket works

weld it on and use the appropriate tool to remove it

 

[liljlandon]

I have a box full of broken sockets just for stuff like this... Melt it on there and if your poor/dont care, you can re use it cause it still works fine

 

[Chef]

A little anti-seize on re-install is a good thing.

 

[arndog123]

The welding thing worked on my '85 and I replaced it w/ an allen head plug from Toyota.

 

[hey you]

Tack weld a big nut on it and wrench it off, easy. Use anti seize on the replacement.

 

[4x4 Station Wagon]

I have a box full of broken sockets just for stuff like this... Melt it on there and if your poor/dont care, you can re use it cause it still works fine

Now your just trying to make me feel better for leaving mine on there for a year!!! Although I am poor.... I have the replacements sitting here so I suppose I fit into the lazy category. BUT to be constructive I found using a bolt around approx. a 1/2" was simpler as it gave me plenty of weld area without limiting my contact areas. Just another option incase you do not wish to sacrifice a socket to the toyota gods. A socket would work slick though

 

[foxfab]

I agree with the welded nut option but you can try a small pipe wrench if you dont have a welder.

They get stuck due to the dis-similar metals bonding together.

 

[coryc85]

If you just want to fill the case, leave that plug alone and pour the oil in thru the shifter hole.

 

[coryc85]

If you just want to fill the case, leave that plug alone and pour the oil in thru the shifter hole.

I wanted to add to what I said above and couldn't edit the post for some reason...

Obviously at some point you will want to fix this right and do as suggested, weld a nut on there or grind it enough to get a wrench on it. I'm only suggesting that if you want to change the case oil, a temporary workaround is to fill thru the shifter hole.

 

[KLF]

If you just want to fill the case, leave that plug alone and pour the oil in thru the shifter hole.

Can't do this with a forward shift case. The fluid will go into the tranny.

How will you know when it's full to the proper level?

 

[coryc85]

Can't do this with a forward shift case. The fluid will go into the tranny.

How will you know when it's full to the proper level?

You bring up a good point about the forward shift, I didn't think about that case, OP did not specify.

As far as fill level, that's not that tough of a problem, drain it out the bottom and pour the amount specified in the owner's manual thru the shifter hole. Yeah might be a tad off since some of the old stuff probably did not run out, I personally wouldn't lose any sleep if I had a bit too much oil in my case.

 

[KLF]

It's actually possible to top-fill a forward-shift t-case, you can remove the block-off plate and pour it in there. But this would require dropping the crossmember and letting the t-case droop down some. It would be a pain to reach. Then you'd have to get a new gasket for the plate, as the old one will likely get shredded removing the plate.

 

[H8PVMNT]

H8PVMNT, did you booger up the case itself? Did the new plug seat pretty well against the scarred up area?
Thanks,
Carter

It didn't mess up the case at all. The threads were nice and clean.

Using anti-seize on these is a good idea after you get it out.

 

[raevenzero]

Are you sure you're turning it counter-clockwise or "left". LOL

Anyway, I agree with welding a nut on it or bar stock, old wrench, etc. If you weld the stock or wrench then you have to cut it off once it is free so that you can spin it out. You may be able to use some map gas or propane, torch, whatever to head up the housing around the bolt slightly and try to remove it quickly before it cools. If you don't get it fast enough, you run the risk of making things worse. Don't apply too much heat, it's just aluminum and be careful not to put too much stress on the bolt and crack the housing.

Locktite has something called "freeze and release". I have never used it or known anyone that has. Maybe something to try and report back on.