Fellas, I need some advice regarding meterails for a lid on my cndm101. I want to make a lid similar to the one on a chaser/adventer trailer. What gauge sheet metal should I use? I plan on creating frame work using 1x1 square tube.
Trailer Lid materials
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Fellas, I need some advice regarding meterails for a lid on my cndm101. I want to make a lid similar to the one on a chaser/adventer trailer. What gauge sheet metal should I use? I plan on creating frame work using 1x1 square tube.
I am using 1x1" tubing in 16ga steel to build and skin my trailer. I am using 16ga sheet throughout except for the floor where i will use 14ga.
For your lid, I would look into building lots of the structure and gussets with the tube, then skin it out in something around 16-18 ga. Just make sure any racks and tent mounts etc, are all bolted into the tubing and distribute the load through the tube frame.
Sounds like a great project, post up some pics when you get rollin'!
Rezarf <><
I used 18 ga i think? with 5ea. 1/2 16 ga. square tub arches and welded the skin to the sheet at all edges and spotted it every 10" on the underside. It's quite strong. I can stand on the underside of the arch and it holds my weight. 245#, yikes. I am not planning to load anything on the top so I guess the thinner sheet is going to work fine.
Same photo again.
Same photo again.
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- #4
Ok fellas. I went to my local metal liquadation center today and ordered up some 18 gage sheet metal. In the mean time I tack welded up the framing for the lid. What do you guys think? Do I need to beef it up at all?
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- #5
I also went down to the local tailer supply and picked up this hinge? What so you guys think?
looks great. i would imagine with sheetmetal welded to it, it would be plenty strong, but have you thought about a brace in the center of the long sides? just looks a little weaker right there than the rest.
and the hinge is badass. if i could have found one like that local, it would be on my trailer right now.
and the hinge is badass. if i could have found one like that local, it would be on my trailer right now.
Looks really stout. I would add a couple cross pieces to support the center of the top and a couple on the sides as mentioned above. Do you have access to a sheet metal break? You might want to have the angles of the sheet bent to spec. I bent mine by hand with a couple of blocks and an mallet and they look a bit rough.
I would also put the hinge on the underside of the square tube so you wont have to overlap the sheet
x2 on the hinge I ended up building my own. Looks like it will be a great topper!
I would also put the hinge on the underside of the square tube so you wont have to overlap the sheet
x2 on the hinge I ended up building my own. Looks like it will be a great topper!
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- #8
Photogod,
Awesome sugestion regarding the hing under the frame....good call. I will be adding some support on the long lengths incase I want to install a roof rack.
Thanks!!
Awesome sugestion regarding the hing under the frame....good call. I will be adding some support on the long lengths incase I want to install a roof rack.
Thanks!!
looking good, i second or third, adding bracing across the top
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- #10
I got the hinge from Eastern Marine. This place has a lot of parts for custom trailers. They have a great website. Lucky me they are in my back yard and are tax free in Delaware. The have two widths 72'x3 and 72x2" Trailer Parts Superstore - Steel Continuous Hinge, 72"L x 2"W and Trailer Parts Superstore - Steel Continuous Hinge, 72"L x 3"W
Unfortunatly I do not have a break. I will either have to use the two by four method or have my local sheet metal supplier fabricate it. I am still up in the air. if i were to do it on my own. I would most likly skin the flat section on top. Then do the front sides with 45 degree break and spot weld to the top sheet. I have never done this so I have know Idea what the best method would be. If I have it done by a shop I would have them fab two sections of sheet metal with one seem down the middle or the longer length. I would have them put a 1 inch break along this length and rivet or weld the two sections together. This looks to be the appoach they took with the chaser above
Unfortunatly I do not have a break. I will either have to use the two by four method or have my local sheet metal supplier fabricate it. I am still up in the air. if i were to do it on my own. I would most likly skin the flat section on top. Then do the front sides with 45 degree break and spot weld to the top sheet. I have never done this so I have know Idea what the best method would be. If I have it done by a shop I would have them fab two sections of sheet metal with one seem down the middle or the longer length. I would have them put a 1 inch break along this length and rivet or weld the two sections together. This looks to be the appoach they took with the chaser above
KOWBOY
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Most excellent sir!
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Most excellent sir!
calsum2;2989126 Unfortunatly I do not have a break. I will either have to use the two by four method or have my local sheet metal supplier fabricate it. I am still up in the air. if i were to do it on my own. I would most likly skin the flat section on top. Then do the front sides with 45 degree break and spot weld to the top sheet. I have never done this so I have know Idea what the best method would be. If I have it done by a shop I would have them fab two sections of sheet metal with one seem down the middle or the longer length. I would have them put a 1 inch break along this length and rivet or weld the two sections together. This looks to be the appoach they took with the chaser above[/QUOTE said:I did my topper with one sheet. I layed the topper upside down on the sheet stock and tacked it in the middle then worked my way out to the edges rolling the frame as I went. This really gave it a ton of strength.
If you have the option to have a metal guy do the bends for you I would for sure do it. It would really give you a nice bend seam to look at. My only bends are at the bottom so they are barely visible. Yours are right there in your face and any little dimple will really show. Of course, I'm not a sheet metal guy. This project of mine was my first attempt at any type of sheet work so I expected a few glitches here and there.
I cut the end pieces with a small cutoff wheel after they were tacked in place. Then ground off the rough spots and welded them in place with .025 and very low heat. Those are the best welds I have ever done, thankfully.
Keep the photos coming. It looks great.
FWIW, I would brace up the top but not with long runners like you have. I would either add a few braces across the width of the top, or preferably... I would add corner braces that connect the sides to the front and rear. Sorta diamond shape instead of parallel lines, clear as mud?
As for the sheet, have your sheet metal place brake it, it will come out MUCH better and nicer than any garage method and it shouldn't cost more than 5% of the cost of the steel. See if you can bring them your lid and they can use it for precise measurements.
Looks great man, keep it up.
For those looking for anything along the lines of hinges, bolts, latches, and anything else fab wise... check out McMaster-Carr prepare to spend hours snooping around. That type of hinge is called a continuous or piano hinge.
Rezarf <><
As for the sheet, have your sheet metal place brake it, it will come out MUCH better and nicer than any garage method and it shouldn't cost more than 5% of the cost of the steel. See if you can bring them your lid and they can use it for precise measurements.
Looks great man, keep it up.
For those looking for anything along the lines of hinges, bolts, latches, and anything else fab wise... check out McMaster-Carr prepare to spend hours snooping around. That type of hinge is called a continuous or piano hinge.
Rezarf <><
Well, I can't take any credit for building it, but the pictures should give you guys a few ideas.
It is extremely strong. Nuts were welded into the bottoms of the legs for the roof rack, and then bolted from underneath through the supports and sheet.
I am happy with the way it turned out.
Here is a little write-up.
It is extremely strong. Nuts were welded into the bottoms of the legs for the roof rack, and then bolted from underneath through the supports and sheet.
I am happy with the way it turned out.
Here is a little write-up.
Powder coated aluminum... no 'frame' needed.
lx450landcruiser
Moderator
Powder coated aluminum... no 'frame' needed.
any reason for the double support struts?
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- #17
Ok I went to pick up 16 ga sheet metal today for the skin. I opted to have it bent by there shop. Took about 20 min and only cost 38 bucks. This was well worth it. It would have cost me as much to make my own break and the bends would not look nearly as good. This afternoon I laid in the frame and tacked it in.
Good call on the shop bending it! Well worth the time and cost. Looks great.
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Most excellent sir.
Did you take the framework to the sheetmetal shop or just provide them with dimensions?
I'll be followin' your lead on this deal.
Did you take the framework to the sheetmetal shop or just provide them with dimensions?
I'll be followin' your lead on this deal.
damn it. you're making me want to redo my whole top.
looks great.
looks great.
