Trail Tailor Slider Installation (w/photos)

[MSU LC200]

I finally got around to installing the sliders that I ordered back in June. First of all, let me say that Jason is great to work with. I also ordered a Tough Dog suspension kit from him that he spec'd exactly like I needed and it has turned out to be just what I wanted after about 5 months of use. (Sorry, didn't take photos of that installation, but it wasn't too bad. Only took 3 of us about 8 hours with less than ideal tools, but we did have a lift! (thanks @geologic !)

Back to the sliders. After the 6 week expected delivery date, I didn't receive them so I messaged Jason and long story short, FedEx "lost" them. How you lose a package that big and heavy is a mystery, but Jason made it right and immediately made me a new set and had them to me quickly. I've been traveling for work a lot lately so I just got around to getting them painted and installing them so here's how it went...

At first my thought was to just have them powder coated, but I didn't want them looking like just any old slider. So I looked into having them Linex'd the same color as the truck, but that proved to be way too expensive. (like $500) So I decided to have them painted at my local body shop so they would blend in. Almost too pretty to use.

On to the installation. I started with the driver's side because it looked the most challenging with the hydraulic lines that follow the frame rail. So these photos are for that side. If you can do the driver's, the passenger side is a cinch. It took around 2 hours per side once I ran to the hardware store and got the correct tap. The hardware kit that I received had a M10 1.25, but a M12 1.25 is required. (More on that part of the installation later.)

Here are the tools that I used:
Work Light
Two Jack Stands
WD40 to lube up all the fasteners that come off for installation
Drill
Impact Driver
Large Flat Head Screwdriver
1/4" Drill Bit
5/16" Drill Bit (Supplied with hardware kit)
3/8" Drill Bit
M12 1.25 Tap
Ratchet
12 MM Socket
3/4" Socket
12 MM Combo Wrench (pivot and ratcheting box end made it much easier)
3/4" Combo Wrench
All fasteners needed came with kit except for some washers that I used for spacers. (More on that later)

First thing I did was set the slider up on jack stands to check everything out. I got that pro tip along with some others from @LBridges in this thread. Once I new what needed to be loosened/removed and what holes to tap, I got the slider out of the way and got busy.

Basically there are 3 bolts that must be removed holding the hydraulic lines and valves along the frame rail so you have enough play to move them out of the way as needed. As mentioned in the thread above, the front one pictured first is the biggest pain (hence the pivoting and ratcheting wrench). The other two bolts are holding the valves.

Here you can see the two holes that have to be tapped to accept the center mount bolts. Now this part is a little tricky. Biggest problem is that you don't have a straight on look at them because they are tucked up beyond the rocker panel. And I found that the existing holes are just too small to be able to hand start the tap. So I used the 3/8" drill bit to give me a lead in. Even with the lead in, I had trouble tapping by hand so I was forced to tap the holes at a slight angle using my drill on the lowest speed and torque setting. After doing this, I must say that I'm not too fond of this design because there just isn't enough thickness in the frame to have enough threads IMO. I was was very careful not to over tighten these bolts because with only a couple of threads in the frame, they could have easily stripped if I would've cranked down on them like I think they need. Therefore, I may end up tack welding a couple of spots to ensure the center mount bolts stay secure.

Once I got the center mount holes tapped, I mounted up the slider by hand screwing in the center mount bolts first.

I then installed the longest bolt (6" I believe) with the lock washer and flat washer in the front mounting hole through the frame. *Note- Be sure that the washers make it flush with the slider mounting surface and clears the hydraulic line. This is why you have to take the line's mounting bolt all the way out. So you can move the lines out of the way enough to slip the washers by. Once the bolt is wiggled through the frame, I threaded it hand tight into the supplied front mounting sandwich plate (its marked front).

 

[MSU LC200]

Next I installed the second longest bolt (5" I think) with the lock washer and flat washer in the rear mounting hole through the frame. To get enough clearance on the back side for the sandwich plate washer and nut, I had to take one bolt out of the kdss cover. I threaded that bolt into the sandwich plate fastener hand tight as well.

Before I tightened everything up, I ensured that I had good clearance between the slider and body. I moved them as far rearward as possible. I wish i would've had another 3/8" to move it toward the rear because to me they are a little too close to the front edge of the rocker. And they are not flush with the rear wheel well.

Now I snugged up all of the side mount hardware in preparation to start drilling the bottom mount holes. I used a 1/4" starter bit and cutting oil (another pro tip) on all of the holes first and then came back with the supplied 5/16" bit using cutting fluid. Then I used my impact driver to screw in all of the bottom bolts. All 12 of the zipped right in.

When it came time to reinstall the three hydraulic line bolts, I wasn't comfortable with the lack of clearance in a couple of spots so I found a couple of thick washers to use as spacers before installing the front line mount and front valve bolt. I also used my large screwdriver to bend out the front mount bracket on the lines to clear the front mounting bolt with plenty of room. When I was done, I could pass the shaft of the screwdriver between the bolt head and line and the mounting bracket and line.

 

[MSU LC200]

Final thoughts.... I must say that overall I got what I wanted. A set of sliders that are robust and well made, but don't stick out and they look like they go with the Land Cruiser. I don't have any experience with other sliders so I can't make a comparison, but I am satisfied enough to purchase again from Jason if I ever get another LC that needs them. I would work with him to improve upon the couple of issues that I encountered above though.

 

[mcgaskins]

I applaud you for taking this on solo. I have installed sliders myself on a couple trucks including a 100, and they were all a breeze. When I crawled underneath the 200 though, I decided to pay Slee to install mine due to the complexity and time involved (a pro would take 10% of the time it would take me no doubt). Are you bringing your truck to LCDC? I'd like to check them out in person and see how they differ from the Slee offering.

 

[MSU LC200]

Thanks @mcgaskins . It really wasn't too bad. Just have to take your time and plan every move out. The jack stands made it easy physically. The only reason I didn't go with Slee is because I wanted to install myself and the rivnut stories worried me. I also wanted a little angle to them to make them a little less noticeable and give a touch more clearance. Plus the "Land Cruiser" cut out is cool.

I would love to make the LCDC this year. There is a chance I could get away, but with two under the age of 4, it may be 2021 before I have the freedom. lol

 

[indycole]

I would love to make the LCDC this year. There is a chance I could get away, but with two under the age of 4, it may be 2021 before I have the freedom. lol

I was 4 years old for our first trip to Ouray. This year will mark my 30th anniversary of traveling there

 

[MSU LC200]

I was 4 years old for our first trip to Ouray. This year will mark my 30th anniversary of traveling there

That’s funny because I was 6 for my first trip there, which was 30 years ago. Unfortunately I haven’t made the opportunity to go back. Soon though.

 

[tarheel40]

@MSU LC200 Sliders look great, love the matching paint and the Land Cruiser logo Jason put in the step plate! I installed a set of Slee sliders over the holidays, definitely a fun but time consuming project. For what it’s worth the rivnuts were pretty simple, I was a little worried about that part of the install too but it wasn’t a big deal.

Really like the angled design of your sliders, the ones on my old 4runner had a similar angle and hugged the vehicle more than the Slee design. Still getting used to the looks of the flat sliders but the functional aspect is nice, the wife especially likes them for getting in and out of the cruiser so I count that as a huge win haha. Enjoy!

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Thanks @mcgaskinsI would love to make the LCDC this year. There is a chance I could get away, but with two under the age of 4, it may be 2021 before I have the freedom. lol

I have two under the age of 4 also... don’t wait for the right time, it will never happen. Just come out, and make some memories that you won’t be able to in the future.

Besides, we can run a couple trails together, and take forever because the kids are loosing it in the back.

But it would make for a good story.

 

[Markuson]

I was 4 years old for our first trip to Ouray. This year will mark my 30th anniversary of traveling there

Wow! I had no idea.
I’ve heard you call Ouray your “happy place” and now I understand.

And I agree. It’s always amazing.

 

[SQRRRL]

I have two under the age of 4 also... don’t wait for the right time, it will never happen. Just come out, and make some memories that you won’t be able to in the future.

Besides, we can run a couple trails together, and take forever because the kids are loosing it in the back.

But it would make for a good story.

I’m in the same boat. Hahahahaha

 

[linuxgod]

I was 4 years old for our first trip to Ouray. This year will mark my 30th anniversary of traveling there

I feel old

 

[SQRRRL]

I feel old

I’m 52 with 3,4 & 5 year old boys.
I’m an old dad already.

 

[Volunteer]

After doing this, I must say that I'm not too fond of this design because there just isn't enough thickness in the frame to have enough threads IMO. I was was very careful not to over tighten these bolts because with only a couple of threads in the frame, they could have easily stripped if I would've cranked down on them like I think they need. Therefore, I may end up tack welding a couple of spots to ensure the center mount bolts stay secure.

Well done, I can tell you I mounted mine 6 mths ago and those center bolts are as tight as the day I installed them. I think the key was to make sure the hole was tapped straight so the bolts would grab tight. Jason does great work I'm very happy with mine as well I went with TonyP design with DOM outer rail and had them powder coated.

 

[MSU LC200]

Thanks @Volunteer ! Your build has been a big help for me. Can you post a photo of the clearance between the front of the slider and the rocker like I have above? That spacing is my main concern.

By the way...Are you still liking the Prinsu Rack? That will likely be my next purchase.

 

[Volunteer]

Thanks @Volunteer ! Your build has been a big help for me. Can you post a photo of the clearance between the front of the slider and the rocker like I have above? That spacing is my main concern.

By the way...Are you still liking the Prinsu Rack? That will likely be my next purchase.

Glad to hear, of course I got my advice and help here in this forum as well so I'm always glad to share what I've learned. I'll certainly get you those measurements this evening. I'm very happy with the Prinsu rack and the flexibility I have to configure the bars to fit my needs. I didn't have time to hook up my utility trailer this past weekend so I loaded some lumber on it a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply and couple 2x4's fit perfect almost like it was designed for it. The ply slid right inside the outside rails and I used the 2x4 to clamp down on it so it wouldn't move front to back it worked well. I will have some block spacers machined to replace the barrel spacers it comes with that's about the only thing I would change in their design and may have to change out the the bar screws for some painted stainless in the future but overall I'm definitely happy with the purchase.

 

[Sinister]

I really like those sliders. I like how they are angled up a bit and don’t stick out like the crappy stock running boards did. Real nice

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

Glad to hear, of course I got my advice and help here in this forum as well so I'm always glad to share what I've learned. I'll certainly get you those measurements this evening. I'm very happy with the Prinsu rack and the flexibility I have to configure the bars to fit my needs. I didn't have time to hook up my utility trailer this past weekend so I loaded some lumber on it a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 ply and couple 2x4's fit perfect almost like it was designed for it. The ply slid right inside the outside rails and I used the 2x4 to clamp down on it so it wouldn't move front to back it worked well. I will have some block spacers machined to replace the barrel spacers it comes with that's about the only thing I would change in their design and may have to change out the the bar screws for some painted stainless in the future but overall I'm definitely happy with the purchase.
View attachment 1880006

Apologies for the mini hijack, but @Volunteer , I noticed that you don’t use the “noise reduction” rubber stripping on your fairing, and your first cross rail behind the fairing is in the lower position. How’s the wind noise with this setup? Reason I ask is I tried mine without the rubber and got a pretty loud droning sound at about 40-50mph. My first cross bar behind the fairing is in the “standard” position though. Thanks in advance, and again sorry for the hijack.....

 

[Volunteer]

Apologies for the mini hijack, but @Volunteer , I noticed that you don’t use the “noise reduction” rubber stripping on your fairing, and your first cross rail behind the fairing is in the lower position. How’s the wind noise with this setup? Reason I ask is I tried mine without the rubber and got a pretty loud droning sound at about 40-50mph. My first cross bar behind the fairing is in the “standard” position though. Thanks in advance, and again sorry for the hijack.....

No I never tried the rubber stripping to see if it made a difference. I have no noticeable wind noise issues the way the fairing is now however when I had the cargo box on it for vacation last summer I had adjusted the fairing lower and I was getting a terrible vibration and noise from the bars. I adjusted it to where it is now and haven't had any issues since with the different configurations of the bars. I do move the bars around from time to time to adjust for what I'm hauling on it and for the nice weather I leave out the bars over the sunroof. If its helps I'd be glad to take a pictures of the way its configured now.

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

No I never tried the rubber stripping to see if it made a difference. I have no noticeable wind noise issues the way the fairing is now however when I had the cargo box on it for vacation last summer I had adjusted the fairing lower and I was getting a terrible vibration and noise from the bars. I adjusted it to where it is now and haven't had any issues since with the different configurations of the bars. I do move the bars around from time to time to adjust for what I'm hauling on it and for the nice weather I leave out the bars over the sunroof. If its helps I'd be glad to take a pictures of the way its configured now.

Thanks, I appreciate it. So, from the looks of your previous photos, looks like your fairing is in the lower mounting position, true? Or is it in the “center / middle” slot....
Thanks again!
Tommy