I'm not sure why you thought I was pointing at you, but I wasn't.
My appologies!
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I'm not sure why you thought I was pointing at you, but I wasn't.
I think it should be acknowledged that MoJ was right, albeit for the wrong reasons, when they opposed pulling the ABS fuse.
Spike: The brake booster is electric powered. That's why it's safer so if you lose gas or ignition you have 100% stopping power. Without juice it will run out eventually. Maybe I should have warned you of this. Sorry.
if the LC-100 brake system is designed such that loss of electrically powered boost results in NO brakes--that doesn't seem right. How would that get by the safety guys at DOT and NHTSA? Lots of vehicles, particularly medium/heavy duty gasoline engined trucks rely on electrical powered hydraulic boosters since there may not be any manifold vacuum (to power a vacuum booster) for very long periods of time.
Best redundancy is the old Citroen system--it had mechanical pump, master accumulator, brake accumulator/priority valve(switching everything to brake system if main pressure dropped) AND then the vehicle weight would 'back-feed' into the brakes to give about 50% of maximum braking.
How could someone be so DUMB as to drive this dangerous vehicle until it is properly sorted out. It should be trailered to the Dealer. Lawyers would have a field day with this one ' She KNEW th vehicle was broken, the warning lights had worked, and yet she CHOSE to drive this crippled vehicle, resulting in injury/death to (xxxx), therefore our policy coverage is null and void since it specifically excluded willful law violations [driving such a vehicle is called 'reckless driving']. And the charge is 2nd degree homicide since she KNEW it was unsafe.
UPDATE: DO NOT REMOVE THE ABS FUSES and drive the truck, and DO NOT IGNORE warning tones.
Called the friend and asked her to come by the house. I removed the 40 and 50 amp fuses under the hood labelled ABS 1 and 2.
You may think it's safer, but every other vehicle I've ever had still had brakes without the engine running. Not boosted, but useable. The brakes on this particular 100 were not useable without electricity. Not safer, IMHO.
-Spike
If you learn more about the system you'll see why these are expanding out to other models.
Based on Jim's post, I find it hard to believe that this braking setup is a "good" thing. Let's see, lose electricity (say a short, cut wire, blown fuse/relay), and get ZERO pressure to the rear brakes? Please, oh please tell me how this is a "good" design?
You are a smart guy. You can think of MANY situations where 100% braking could come in handy when the engine is not running or has died. Don't insult your intelligence.![]()
Hey John, you are about the LAST person who should be making cracks about people's intelligence, however subtle...
And, to be honest, not really. Unless the engine dies on a steep downhill at freeway speeds (and when's the last time that ever happened to a Toyota engine?), at least I'd still have braking, even if unassisted. However, think about the same situation when the relay blew (admittedly just a unlikely). A MUCH more dangerous situation IMHO.
Whatever. Go ask Toyota engineers then.
The same engineers who designed the, as you put it, horribly unsafe brakes on the 80 Series? Can't have it both ways Gomer!
BTW, that's such a terribly insightful response: "Go ask the Toyota engineers then."
The dealer checked it out and said one of the wheel sensors was sending bad info. They reset the computer, and that's supposedly the fix for it.I hope it works. That and the vehicle inspection cost her $95. On the good side, they gave her '00 with 160K a clean bill of health and a short list of maintenance items that she is due for. I'll be back in the next few weeks for help on her timing belt and maintenance stuff- although if it's all covered (I'm sure it is) I'll find what I need quietly.
Thanks again for the help, guys.
-Spike
Perhaps I might have said it in a nicer fashion.
But to "not have time" to protect your own children strikes me as being equally unthinkable.
If 3 members have an issue, I'll edit the post.
Nope, supposedly the fix for the problem was to reset the system. I wasn't there- if I were, I'd have been asking questions at that point. Unfortunately the only way to know if it's fixed is for the problem not to resurface- and if it does, to pray that it's not catastrophic this time. But, what can I do? The dealer has spoken, and I have no resources to prove them wrong.
-Spike