Toyota cardan Joint (1 Viewer)

[notaf-ingjeep]

i've talked to Jess before, great guy but i don't think he knows a lot about Land Cruisers

He seems cool, He quoted me 300 for a driveline. Then later tells me we need to drill my drum for the pattern. I don't know what he would charge on top of that to do the mods, don't care. Not angry with him or anything, but I only want a bolt in unit. I'd really only be willing to buy a driveline if it's a straight fit. If it comes down to the point I have to put new studs in, I'll drill it myself. I can throw it in a mill and line it up dead nuts with the hole in the center of the drum. Then I can know exactly where I am at, and perfectly centered. I can drill it perfect, so it is very balanced. I would trust my work and acuracy in this case over anyone else, mostly because I'm a perfectionist. Good enough is dead nuts perfect for me, not close to perfect. Like I said I want a bolt in unit, I have a piece of good extruded .25 steel tube. If I can get the mini stuff that will work for the cruiser outputs, I could find a way to build it well. I've never cut a driveline to see whats going on in there. I don't know the exact size of the inner toyota part that is sleeved by the tube. I would bet I could bore my steel tube out at the ends to what ever size I need to fit the yota parts, sick. I would really like to keep my cruiser stuff as is and mached front and rear. For no reason other than that is what I want. What jess is wanting to do would work fine I'm sure.

Mookie, what years are the drivelines you have, if you remember? The ones you drilled for the 11 mm studs, and they lined up.

I've got the 4-speed t.c. output, and 74 axles. I have my driveline, if I used it as is I'll have to limit my travel. Total I'm getting about 13.5" of vertical drop from ride height. My cruiser stuff works up to about 8"- 8.5" of that vertical drop. The spline would be long enough, even at full drop its only getting 2.625" longer, but it binds at the u-joint because of the angle. However 8", thats good travel still, and articulation will pivot from that point roughly considering the pinion is offset. It's mostly going to see the twisted, articulation on the trail. Not the full drop it would only see hitting a jump or something. And I just really don't know if she's gonna unload on me and need to be strapped anyway. At this point I'll do what I have to but would rather not do it twice. So I guess once I identify exactly what I'm after for the mini driveline, I'll start looking to buy one. It's gonna be a lot of work and a headache I'm thinking for sure. I guess that's what it takes sometimes, if you want it done right, you do it yourself!

 

[mookie]

i've used different ones from 79-85 and they all mate up, i believe that 86-89 will work too but the cv has a
lower angle on those.....84-85 are the ones you really want to find though

to get the plugs out of the tube all you have to do is grind the welds down smooth, then take a cut off wheel or pipe cutter and cut into it 1/8" or so and knock them out with a hammer

you being a machinest it should be easy to find a peice of dom tubing that the plugs are close to fitting inside then machine the tube to fit

 

[mookie]

pinion flange patterns over the years

 

[mookie]

i just remembered too, i have a 3-speed t-case but i'm pretty sure that i put 4-speed flanges on it....3-speed t-case flanges don't interchange with mini or fj60 drive shafts iirc

 

[shelfboy1]

i would get an 85 mini cardon and check it out .the ones i have dont have much travel at all .they can be modified for more travel but are used to control vibration .the 85 ifs cardon joint has the same pattern as the toy 4 speed.any fj40 slip joint will fit the other end.now your back to stock and thats not working in the first place.just my o2 if your binding up stock ujoints then maybey it would be easier to clearance those for more travel or get a high clearance shaft made .there is no cheap way to go .you can grind out the stock joints for some more clearance and that should be cheap and strong .

 

[mookie]

ifs started in '86

 

[chicago]

Great read here...
Im in the process (well, infant stages) of a 40 build that will require the use of DC shafts front and rear.
For FURTHER clarification, the mini truck DC shafts WILL WORK on the cruisers. Mine will be a Frankenstein hodge podge blend of chevy/ toy, but that shouldnt be too much of an issue to run the toy shafts.
For my 62 I had a rear DC shaft built, but it was 450 bucks. Its nice, but Id like something a little more accessable with the company that I keep (toyota) if and when something blows.
Ive got a few spare cruiser shafts hanging around too that I can cut up if necessary.

Anyone have any pics of the mini shafts theyve made to run?

Thanks,

Chicago

 

[rusty_tlc]

I got both of my drive lines from Jess. I have a shorty in the back with a DC because of the Toybox. I did have to send him my t-case drum but IIRC the mod was included in the price of the DL. So far both DL's have performed perfectly on the highway and on the trail. And Jess was very helpful on the phone figuring out just what I needed.

I also got a new pinion flange from him when I replaced my rear R&P with the 80 series set. He messed up and sent one with the wrong hole pattern, the problem was corrected immediately at no cost to me. I don't mind someone screwing up, we all do it, it's how they take care of it when they do that makes the difference. The customer service at High Angle is excellent IMHO.

 

[mookie]

Jess must be using cv's from a newer toyota or something?

with all the other mods you guys- Chicago and Notafxxxingjeep have done to your rigs making your own d-shafts will be a peice of freaking cake and save you mucho dinero

 

[notaf-ingjeep]

I've seen that print from cruser outfit. seems to have some holes in it, deffinently not complete. By the looks of it 83-87 have the same outputs as I? It is unclear to me, at this point I wont buy anything without verification. NO one seems to know exactly what I want, and the ones whom have made it work don't seem to know what they have. "Junk yard parts" really could be anything, or from any year regardless of what they are sold as. So these parts could be different from what they think they have or have claimed to be the right ones. Although Mookie seems to have a good Idea of what he has made work. I haven't really found anything concrete, and there are so many different flanges in these toyota parts. I think that Jess told me 30 variations in the patterns. Still talking to him about it, I dont know if he has what I need or not.

My flanges are 68.5mm and 60mm, with 11mm holes studs or bolts. I double checked with some very accurate calipers. My D.L. spline is 20 count, and measures either 1.3025" or 33.08mm in diamerer. It is 4" long roughly in total length, so has 3.5" of usable spline, right? Or is it only 3", not sure, either way 3" spline used would be stronger.

I am not going to modify my cruiser outputs, pinion or t.case no matter what. How ever my old D.L. is clearanced for more angle at the t.case. Will work up to about 8" of my vertical wheel travel, drop from ride height. I've got about 13.5" total, I want as much of that travel as possible with no binding. Also, I want front and rear drive to match. MY front D.L. is about .5" longer, so a single driveline built for trail emergency only, could fit both. I would only have to carry one. It could be a splint in both positions to limp home on in an emergency.

I could build a sick driveline, I just wanted it done quick. I guess that's gone out the window now. I am looking for parts, have a few leads. I think if Jess comes through first with what I want, I'll still buy from him. If that will just be to buy the parts I want, or for him to build the whole thing for me. We'll have to see, what I decide. As far as I have gathered 84-86 mini is your best bet, but like I said "Who the Hell Knows". I found a place called the YotaYard out of denver, they have a website. They claim to have the stuff, I haven't bought from them before. I wont vouch for them, or say they are good or reliable.

My advice would be to verify the specs of the actual parts, and dont purchase based on the year alone. Whatever happens I'll get something to work.

 

[chicago]

Jess must be using cv's from a newer toyota or something?

with all the other mods you guys- Chicago and Notafxxxingjeep have done to your rigs making your own d-shafts will be a peice of freaking cake and save you mucho dinero

That's what Im saying!
I hate paying the man for sh*t that I can do myself.
Im a CHEAP ASS MO FO!!!
Again, the guy that built my shafts initially did a really nice job, used spicer u joint etc. However, Id like to save the 900.00 bucks and put that elsewhere in the rig vs. someone else's pocket.

Ill have to look into this further as well. Sounds appealing to me. If I can make the flanges work with a DC toy shaft, Ill do it.

K

 

[notaf-ingjeep]

Still looking for parts to build my own driveline. E-mailed tom woods, they build a bolt in unit. It is some custom flanges with 1310 u-joints. He quoted me at $380 for a starting point, so who knows for sure there on price. I don't know how the 1310 joints compare to toyota. I know the 1310 isn't the strongest, so I would guess toyota is stronger. High angle has been a total nightmare trying to get them to build what I want, so they are out! I decided to end up in the emergency room last night again. Broken knuckle in my right hand, not too serious a bone chip mostly. So no wrenching for a week or two. I guess I'll have some time to find my parts. I was thinking of going 1350 joints and drilling the park brake drum, and useing a undrilled flange that fits the pinion spline. Typing is slow, hunt and peck the keyboard

 

[John Smith]

Still looking for parts to build my own driveline. E-mailed tom woods, they build a bolt in unit. It is some custom flanges with 1310 u-joints. He quoted me at $380 for a starting point, so who knows for sure there on price. I don't know how the 1310 joints compare to toyota. I know the 1310 isn't the strongest, so I would guess toyota is stronger. High angle has been a total nightmare trying to get them to build what I want, so they are out! I decided to end up in the emergency room last night again. Broken knuckle in my right hand, not too serious a bone chip mostly. So no wrenching for a week or two. I guess I'll have some time to find my parts. I was thinking of going 1350 joints and drilling the park brake drum, and useing a undrilled flange that fits the pinion spline. Typing is slow, hunt and peck the keyboard

Are you just choosing to ignore the posts from mookie and myself? We have already provided you the answer to your question. Are you unwilling to drill out 4 holes on the Mini CV driveshaft to make it work on your truck? If you really want to build your own driveshafts, have at it. You can purchase the parts here. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/toyota.pdf

 

[rusty_tlc]

That's what Im saying!
I hate paying the man for sh*t that I can do myself.
Im a CHEAP ASS MO FO!!!
Again, the guy that built my shafts initially did a really nice job, used spicer u joint etc. However, Id like to save the 900.00 bucks and put that elsewhere in the rig vs. someone else's pocket.

Ill have to look into this further as well. Sounds appealing to me. If I can make the flanges work with a DC toy shaft, Ill do it.

K

I'd do a square tube drive shaft for the front if I ever have to replace mine. Mike's works great.

For the rear I'll stick with a shop that can dynamically test the balance. A trail built truck is hard enough to keep between the lines on the road with having to worry about the DL

 

[Mace]

Jess uses whatever toy CV's he can get his hands on. then he pulls them apart and clearances the inner ball "race" (for the lack of a better word).

Jess has unbelieveable service.

I am not a big fan of square tube DL's unless you want one as a front or rear trail spare. Going fast in 4wd is fun. And, if you decide to run drive slugs, you want the front DS to be okay.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Jess uses whatever toy CV's he can get his hands on. then he pulls them apart and clearances the inner ball "race" (for the lack of a better word).

Jess has unbelieveable service.

I am not a big fan of square tube DL's unless you want one as a front or rear trail spare. Going fast in 4wd is fun. And, if you decide to run drive slugs, you want the front DS to be okay.

Driving fast in 4wd is decidedly not fun in my FJ40.

What do you mean by "drive slugs"

 

[Mace]

No locking hubs.

 

[notaf-ingjeep]

Are you just choosing to ignore the posts from mookie and myself? We have already provided you the answer to your question. Are you unwilling to drill out 4 holes on the Mini CV driveshaft to make it work on your truck? If you really want to build your own driveshafts, have at it. You can purchase the parts here. http://www.rockforddriveline.com/toyota.pdf

NO NOT AT ALL, these parts take time to locate! I want the parts bad and I've been busting my ass trying to find them! I want the toyota parts I can just drill out the holes for 11mm, and have been looking everywhere local and other. Where I live in utah these parts get cleaned out fast. Using some other info I found I think I can machine almost any of the mini units to work, since they seem to have large round flanges, unlike the "H" shaped cruiser flange. I'll check out your website you posted for me, without paypal I wont buy from unkown sources online. so thank you.

But I thought I was more than clear about the fact I want it done quick. So I'm just posting options for others and to see what I can get put together fastest. MOOKIE, has been more that helpful to me, he gave me lots of good info on what to look for. I know what I want ,Lots of options, I'm just trying to find something asap. I need it soon, for I have lots to get done in a short period of time. I to do need my driveline first, before the rest can get done correctly. I'm just trying to keep others updated with what I am dooing or thinking. Have had several pm's from other members on this site wanting me to keep them in the loop with what I'm dooing.

If my communication skills were poor and you actually read the whole thread, apologies.

You kind of pissed me off with this post

 

[notaf-ingjeep]

Jess uses whatever toy CV's he can get his hands on. then he pulls them apart and clearances the inner ball "race" (for the lack of a better word).

Jess has unbelieveable service.
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I called him to get a quote, he wanted some specs, I gave him what I had. He gave me a rough quote. I got some more specs, sent him a e-mail, not wanting to waste money on too many long distance calls.
He said it wouldn't be a bolt in and wanted to modify my drum. NO good I'm not doing that if it can be done without mod. using toyota parts. I told him that and he wanted to pressure me again and again to do it his way. I sent him specs on my flanges, possibe close matches from other toyota models. He did not seem to want to build what I want, I'm got fed up! I wanted to try to get one built by someone else only to save me time. Now that is really NOT worth it now, especially since I broke my knuckle in right hand monday night. Now I have two weeks before I should back wrenching by my advice, not what my doctors want. We will see what I do, tom woods will build me a bolt in unit with 1310 joints, too expensive right now doctors cost tooo much. I mentioned the 1350 joint unit as just a thought if I don't find what I want. And I had to drill the drum, and use a pinion flange adaptor, like jess wanted. I'd rather modify for it for a monster driveline, and not a smaller toyota unit, why not.

 

[mookie]

sorry about your hand man, that sucks......the time i talked to Jess was when i was breaking u-joints and i wanted to see about getting a d-shaft made with larger joints than toyota....he basically told me that if i was breaking toyota u-joints that there was something else wrong (and he was right) and that 1350 spicer was a lateral move not an upgrade of yota u-joints and 1310's are weaker

i don't like square tube shafts either, i do think one would be great for a trail spare to fit front or rear though since they have so much travel