Towing/ Camping /Trailers
- Thread starter lenross1
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@fountainhead is acting like he's not going too.....
Big Bend high. I wont need whiskey. Well maybe a little.
I bet the stars will be incredible. I cant wait.
I bet the stars will be incredible. I cant wait.
Bomar
SILVER Star
I wish I could but will be in Chicago at a sales meeting. Would much rather be at BB.
Got the extension in place. Tested and it is nice.
No noise or movement more than just a regular hitch.
Swingout works with trailer on. Mission accomplished.
Now I have to figure out how to get the safety chains moved up. That or weld some hoops on the extension. The latter is likely the best since I want to use trailer without extension on the 60.
Cool thing is that it backs better with the extension.
No noise or movement more than just a regular hitch.
Swingout works with trailer on. Mission accomplished.
Now I have to figure out how to get the safety chains moved up. That or weld some hoops on the extension. The latter is likely the best since I want to use trailer without extension on the 60.
Cool thing is that it backs better with the extension.
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Gonna weld this D ring under my hitch extension for the safety chain fix.
And gotta make a capture plate/cradle for my propane tank.
And gotta make a capture plate/cradle for my propane tank.
Guys, I need some trailer tech help. Below is a picture of the rear shackle housing. The shackle housing is threaded on its inside diameter. Sort of hard to explain but the fastener for the shackle itself is double sided threaded tube like nut (I.e. As you spin on the fastener it grabs the thread on both the shackle itself (on the inside of the tube nut) and the threads in the housing (on the outside of the tube like nut). I beat on it; used heat, PB blaster etc.... In a fit of frustration, I tried to cut off the end of the fastener and hoping that will eliminate the rust stick and allow me to spin it out. I am screwed because now it's seized in there and I have nothing to grab onto. I broke 3 bits trying to drill it out. Ideas? Special tools for this? I even shopped replacement shackle housings and can't find them. This of course is the last thing I need to do before putting it back together all pretty with new parts.
Here's a pic of the new shackle...the top goes in the shackle housing and the Bottom attaches to the lead spring:
Here's a pic of the new shackle...the top goes in the shackle housing and the Bottom attaches to the lead spring:
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I'm thinking drilling is going to be the only answer here. Go get a real good sharp bit and go real slow with your kid oiling it while you drill.
What does the back side look like? I think cut it off too so the drill will go through.
What does the back side look like? I think cut it off too so the drill will go through.
Thanks Nolen. Yeah, I cut off the back of the shackle too so I'm just left with part of the shackle and the surrounding sheath nut stuck in there. It's a a level 10 cluster. Here's the back side where I cut off the shackle:
Lemme step a few posts back......Since I am totally through with camping in hot weather (well, at least in HUMID hot weather - been there too many times), this question only applies to cold-weather camping: Every time I've camped in cold weather and off the ground (on a cot, in my truck on top of a pad, etc.) - and this is with a 0 degree bag - I've about frozen my b**** off! The only way I've found to stay warm is on the ground (with or without insulation). So, tell me about the roof top / trailer top / cot top tents (even enos). I just envision the airspace underneath making for an uncomfortable winter-time camp.........
First-hand experiences?
First-hand experiences?
@pmccraney is the shackle bracket open on both sides, like you can see thru above the suspect bolt? If so get a recip saw and a good metal blade and cut the inside off too. Cut it twice if need be so you remove a chunk big enough to allow the rest slide inward enough to drop out. Then just take a punch and your favorite BFH and knock the two pieces out.
Unless there is something I'm not seeing, that should work. I have to do something similar with a control arm on my mini truck several years ago when the bolt seized inside the bushing sleeve.
Unless there is something I'm not seeing, that should work. I have to do something similar with a control arm on my mini truck several years ago when the bolt seized inside the bushing sleeve.
RTT's are big mattresses on the roof. I have stayed in them as low as zero degrees in the Arizona mountains, no problem. I just add blankets to the sleeping bag. Also, you can hang a little buddy heater from the roof and run yourself out of there.
I have also slept on my jumbo size cot in super cold weather. No problem. Since you don't have to pack it in on a pack, just add layers. Blankets above and below the bag.
As for Eno's, they are warm weather or slightly cool vehicles. I have a Pad holder for mine I am going to try this weekend first. I will use my 20* bag with the camp pad in the Eno. If I am cold, I will probably bring a little buddy heater to point at me. I really love sleeping in them so I am going to do my best to figure out how to make cold weather work when I am solo. The RTT is awesome but I don't need if the family unit is not along.
I have also slept on my jumbo size cot in super cold weather. No problem. Since you don't have to pack it in on a pack, just add layers. Blankets above and below the bag.
As for Eno's, they are warm weather or slightly cool vehicles. I have a Pad holder for mine I am going to try this weekend first. I will use my 20* bag with the camp pad in the Eno. If I am cold, I will probably bring a little buddy heater to point at me. I really love sleeping in them so I am going to do my best to figure out how to make cold weather work when I am solo. The RTT is awesome but I don't need if the family unit is not along.
Gotcha, well that shot that in the head.
Got any left hand drill bits? Is it threaded in such a way that using a left handed bit would help backing it out if it could get a bite.
Got any left hand drill bits? Is it threaded in such a way that using a left handed bit would help backing it out if it could get a bite.
I say remove the hanger. Take it to welder. Have them weld a nut on the end and heat the piss out of it and turn welded nut.
Do you have the ability to weld? If so, hold a nut with its ID slightly smaller than the piece you want to extract and build up welds from that piece to the ID of the nut. Once you have the nut welded properly let it cool for a bit. The heat is your friend. Give it a few good raps with a hammer and see if it will then back out. Don't worry if the nut just breaks off. Just repeat the process till it comes out
Thanks for all the help guys. Appreciate it. I think the welding trick is the answer. I can't do it, but have a buddy that can help me.
@dnp , Rtt will never get cold from the bottom side. Hardest thing with RTT is the humidity from breathing. Those heavy
cotton tents don't breath very well. If I had a sherpa I would carry a nice canvas wall tent with cots and big agnes pads and let him
set all that s*** up while I hiked or threw ball with the kids, but I don't. I hate the put up and take down of all methods that I have tried. The last time I took kids camping I spend all my time setting up camp and cooking and spent very little time with them.
cotton tents don't breath very well. If I had a sherpa I would carry a nice canvas wall tent with cots and big agnes pads and let him
set all that s*** up while I hiked or threw ball with the kids, but I don't. I hate the put up and take down of all methods that I have tried. The last time I took kids camping I spend all my time setting up camp and cooking and spent very little time with them.