Tough Dog (1 Viewer)

[bemerritt]

More interested in what to do next with the current configuration. THe guards would help a little I guess.

 

[KLF]

Perhaps a thicker coat of rubberized paint on them prior to installing? Something like spray undercoating? Or some vinyl wrap?

Wrap them with some Grace Ice & Water Shield bituthane roofing material? That stuff is super tough, and really sticky.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I sprayed my chipped/rusted rear shocks with some matching rustoleum and haven't had any further chipping, flaking, or rust.

I think the original paint on these is just very thin. Great shocks otherwise.

 

[bemerritt]

I sprayed my chipped/rusted rear shocks with some matching rustoleum and haven't had any further chipping, flaking, or rust.

I think the original paint on these is just very thin. Great shocks otherwise.

This is probably what i'll do. Did you remove them to make it easier? Never removed rear shocks, is it as simple as jacking it up and simply unbolting them? Or is there some load and compression you have to deal with.

 

[KLF]

Paint them silver and slap some FOX stickers on them, all your friends will think you spent the big bucks!!

 

[JohnJB]

Is the stainless steel guard isolated from the mild steel parts? Putting stainless steel in contact with other types of steel while being bathed in salt spray sounds to me like a great way to cause galvanic corrosion.

In the boating world, dissimilar metals are typically isolated from each other by rubber or plastic parts, to prevent such problems.

It's isolated in the sense the lower shock mount it contacts is coated and not bare steel. I did not install, Rob did, so you'd need to ask if he instructs customers to further protect it when installing stainless products. I've had stainless steel against coated or painted mild steel in several vehicles while living in areas that occasionally use salt and I've never experienced that type of corrosion, but admit my experience is predominately in the South where I see salt or sodium chloride products maybe 3 to 6 weeks out of the year. Mostly I hate needing to touch up or repaint stuff attached to the truck. Good powder coat is often sufficient but if given an aluminum or stainless option, I prefer to set it, and mostly, forget it if the application makes sense.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

This is probably what i'll do. Did you remove them to make it easier? Never removed rear shocks, is it as simple as jacking it up and simply unbolting them? Or is there some load and compression you have to deal with.

Nah, I had some paint in the garage that matched well, so I just placed a few shop towels strategically to prevent overspray and resprayed the area that was getting chipped. My goal was more about stopping/preventing rust along the front surfaces, and less about giving the whole shock a makeover.

I wish I could tell you specifically which paint color I used, but I have a ton of different spray cans in the garage. It was definitely a Rustoleum product though. If I figure it out, I'll update this thread.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Is the stainless steel guard isolated from the mild steel parts? Putting stainless steel in contact with other types of steel while being bathed in salt spray sounds to me like a great way to cause galvanic corrosion.

In the boating world, dissimilar metals are typically isolated from each other by rubber or plastic parts, to prevent such problems.

The mild steel of the axle housing is painted.

So galvanic corrosion can’t happen. Now if somehow you had raw mild steel that was rusting away, and you put stainless by it, technically yes, but the rusty mild steel will mostly just leave rust on the stainless, and not galvanize.

For real life testing, my FJ has had bare stainless skids on the frame for 9 years. That includes a lot of winter driving. No corrosion.