torque wrench for valve adjustment

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Good to use but certainly not needed. If you are going to be working on your cruiser a lot, then you might want to buy one.
 
I don't use one for the valves but a torque wrench is an essential tool for working on any vehicle. You don't have to run out and get one this second but before you do alot of wrenching it would be a good idea. I always torque my lug nuts for instance.
 
rrrgggggggghhhhhhh...feelinglikeanidjut......

Well, thanks. I settled on no torque wrench, then went out an bought one anyway. I should have picked up a big socket too. I got it all taken apart, then realized I couldn't turn the motor over to find TDC. My valves are reaching room temp. as I write.

I've read different accounts of the size of that socket ranging from 22mm to 66mm. I think the consensus is 46mm. Can anyone confirm this for me before I go at it again?

Tell me the learning curve won't be this steep forever.

bh
 
Put it in 4th gear and roll it forward or back till you hit TDC. Then you dont have to worry about size.

Hodag
 
hodag said:
Put it in 4th gear and roll it forward or back till you hit TDC. Then you dont have to worry about size.

Hodag

I would try this but I'm working on an incline and have the wheels blocked. Looks like I'll be the proud owner of an 46mm socket. I can loan it to all my friends.

b
 
I take my spark plugs out and turn the engine over using the nut on the alternator. Just be sure to turn the engine in the direction that tightens the nut. After the last time I adjusted my valves I purchased a socket for the crank nut, but I didn't use it this last time. I'm not sure a socket and wrench can fit and still clear the radiator, etc. Using the alternator nut is a whole lot easier as you're working from the top of the engine and you can see the timing window while your turning the engine.
 
2mbb said:
I take my spark plugs out and turn the engine over using the nut on the alternator. Just be sure to turn the engine in the direction that tightens the nut. After the last time I adjusted my valves I purchased a socket for the crank nut, but I didn't use it this last time. I'm not sure a socket and wrench can fit and still clear the radiator, etc. Using the alternator nut is a whole lot easier as you're working from the top of the engine and you can see the timing window while your turning the engine.


Thanks. This is helpful. I was going to have my 10yr old son do the turning while I watch for the TDC mark. I'll try the alternator next.


bh
 
Well, finished the job and drove it. Thanks to 2mbb for the alternator tip. I ended up doing it that way.

Can't say I really notice a difference in the way it runs. I'm still hearing the noise I thought was valve chatter--sort of a rattling sound when I push the throttle hard going up an incline. Could this be something else? Plugs didn't look too great. A good bit of black, charred looking stuff. I suppose I should do the timing and idle adjustment now.

thoughts, anyone?

bh
 
Sounds like pinging/detonation/pre-ignition. Recheck your ignition timing. Might have to run higher octane fuel until you can de-carbon the head. I run mine slightly advanced and use mid grade or premium..OUCH!

Jon in SC
87 FJ-60
 
Dr. John said:
Sounds like pinging/detonation/pre-ignition. Recheck your ignition timing. Might have to run higher octane fuel until you can de-carbon the head. I run mine slightly advanced and use mid grade or premium..OUCH!

Jon in SC
87 FJ-60

thanks. what is involved in de-carboning (izing?) the head?

bh
 
seafoam......
did wonder for my truck. dont put new plugs in until afterward tho'
hammer
 
Predetonation is the likely subject.. AS said, check your timing..

Also, there is a neat little tool that helps get the engine to TDC. It is a remote starter. It hooks to the battery lead and the starter plug. Pull the trigger and the starter turns over... VERY simple..

Plus you don't get so frustrated when you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke ;)
 
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