Topic 3474 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landtank
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- Thread starter
- #42
Over the hump
Replaced the slipper, re-installed the timing cover, installed #1 oil pan, replaced the PS oil cooler, rebuilt PS pump. Only drawback was breaking my first bolt which had to be drilled and tapped.
Now if I can only get that head on without damaging anything :
.
Hltopper I'll leave it to someone else to set their tires a Blaze
Replaced the slipper, re-installed the timing cover, installed #1 oil pan, replaced the PS oil cooler, rebuilt PS pump. Only drawback was breaking my first bolt which had to be drilled and tapped.
Now if I can only get that head on without damaging anything :
.Hltopper I'll leave it to someone else to set their tires a Blaze
Over the hump
Curious... what bolt did you break?
I start back on mine tomorrow (friday) evening. Im probably at the point you were at when you started this morning. Everything dismantled, new parts ready to go on, old parts needing to be cleaned before they go back on.
Oh and it's f'in hot out even at night time here. 90 something today.
Curious... what bolt did you break?
I start back on mine tomorrow (friday) evening. Im probably at the point you were at when you started this morning. Everything dismantled, new parts ready to go on, old parts needing to be cleaned before they go back on.
Oh and it's f'in hot out even at night time here. 90 something today.
- Thread starter
- #44
Over the hump
It was one that bolts into the frame that holds the PS cooler in place under the rasdiator. I ran out of propane last night. And the shovelling of snow from the driveway has taken some time from the project.
It was one that bolts into the frame that holds the PS cooler in place under the rasdiator. I ran out of propane last night. And the shovelling of snow from the driveway has taken some time from the project.
- Thread starter
- #45
HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
I just torqued the head per the FSM. On the second pass at turning the bolts 90 deg some seemed to slip. When done I checked the torque and some were 100 Ft Lbs and some were 80 Ft Lbs. CDan had mentioned these where some type of specila bolt. Is this normal? Or should I replace the bolts that onlyt torqued to 80.
Thanks
I just torqued the head per the FSM. On the second pass at turning the bolts 90 deg some seemed to slip. When done I checked the torque and some were 100 Ft Lbs and some were 80 Ft Lbs. CDan had mentioned these where some type of specila bolt. Is this normal? Or should I replace the bolts that onlyt torqued to 80.
Thanks
HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg124345#msg124345 date=1079806885]
On the second pass at turning the bolts 90 deg some seemed to slip.
[/quote]
I dont have anything to offer other than I have read here or on the 80scool list where someone was saying they experienced the same thing. Did you clean out the bolt holes?
I went at mine for about a solid 5-6 hours last night. Got the timing cover and oil pans back on as well as most of the accessories on the front of the motor. Cleaning up the mounting surfaces of the pans, chain cover and the block is time consuming. Helps to have the right tools.
Tonight the head goes back on and hopefully the majority of the remaining goodies. I'm nervous about the head bolt torqueing procedure.
Regards, from Arizona,
Larry
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg124345#msg124345 date=1079806885]
On the second pass at turning the bolts 90 deg some seemed to slip.
[/quote]
I dont have anything to offer other than I have read here or on the 80scool list where someone was saying they experienced the same thing. Did you clean out the bolt holes?
I went at mine for about a solid 5-6 hours last night. Got the timing cover and oil pans back on as well as most of the accessories on the front of the motor. Cleaning up the mounting surfaces of the pans, chain cover and the block is time consuming. Helps to have the right tools.
Tonight the head goes back on and hopefully the majority of the remaining goodies. I'm nervous about the head bolt torqueing procedure.
Regards, from Arizona,
Larry
HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
The procedure is 90* then 90* again. Several of my head bolts felt like they were about to shear, but they held together. There will be some variances in the feel due to amount of oil on the threads and on the head of the bolts. If you checked the bolts before installing them, they should be OK.
BTW, use angle iron, not flat stock for making a tool to hold the crank pulley in place. See my old rebuild thread for details. Don't forget you're going to need to install it.
The procedure is 90* then 90* again. Several of my head bolts felt like they were about to shear, but they held together. There will be some variances in the feel due to amount of oil on the threads and on the head of the bolts. If you checked the bolts before installing them, they should be OK.
BTW, use angle iron, not flat stock for making a tool to hold the crank pulley in place. See my old rebuild thread for details. Don't forget you're going to need to install it
.
- Thread starter
- #48
HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
Thanks for the replies. Called Christo and he said pretty much the same. Robbie chases the threads to clean them out which I didn't do. About 3 more hours tomorrow and I'm done. Just the radiator, throttle body, belts and exhaust manifolds.
Thanks for the replies. Called Christo and he said pretty much the same. Robbie chases the threads to clean them out which I didn't do. About 3 more hours tomorrow and I'm done. Just the radiator, throttle body, belts and exhaust manifolds.
- Thread starter
- #50
HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
What's the problem Doug? When a topic remains constant it typically goes a stray on some side line. Just thought I'd try to keep the thread on track and change the topic according to where I was in the rebuild. This way people would know of a change in material in the thread.
Didn't meant o drive anyone crazy. I'll change the topic to something more generic and orderly
What's the problem Doug? When a topic remains constant it typically goes a stray on some side line. Just thought I'd try to keep the thread on track and change the topic according to where I was in the rebuild. This way people would know of a change in material in the thread.
Didn't meant o drive anyone crazy. I'll change the topic to something more generic and orderly
Landtank - do whatever you want with the topic name. It's an interesting thread and I'm just glad I'm not going through this or I would have tossed in the towel a long time ago.
If this happens to me....I'm only at 65k as of yet....I am not dealing with it..uh uh.....I'll pay and prey.....
<Vibration Damper bolt >
What is the VD bolt?
Is it the crank pulley bolt?
What is the VD bolt?
Is it the crank pulley bolt?
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg124607#msg124607 date=1079857023]
<Vibration Damper bolt >
What is the VD bolt?
Is it the crank pulley bolt?
[/quote]
It has to be the crank bolt.
Mine didnt require the same effort to remove as landtanks. We used a pretty strong impact which didnt remove the bolt but may have loosened it. Then we switched to a breaker bar and prybar combination which did the trick.
<Vibration Damper bolt >
What is the VD bolt?
Is it the crank pulley bolt?
[/quote]
It has to be the crank bolt.
Mine didnt require the same effort to remove as landtanks. We used a pretty strong impact which didnt remove the bolt but may have loosened it. Then we switched to a breaker bar and prybar combination which did the trick.
I used a 3/4" scoket set with a big pipe with a crow bar holding the crank pulley.
The nut will brake free at the point that you think the big 3/4" bar is going to snap. I didn't think that bar could bend like that.
Then there is the problem of torqueing the the bolt to about 305ft/lbs.
This does the job. Big ass torque wrench.
The nut will brake free at the point that you think the big 3/4" bar is going to snap. I didn't think that bar could bend like that.
Then there is the problem of torqueing the the bolt to about 305ft/lbs.
This does the job. Big ass torque wrench.
- Thread starter
- #57
Kurt you rent that thing? DOn't know how I'm going to get 305 on that bolt. For now it's impact tight and I'll deal with making an angle iron tool for the damper on Monday. Maybe 305 is two men pulling on a 3/4" breaker bar till one drops a nut .
.
- Thread starter
- #58
Can someone help me locat where this wire attaches? Finishing up and it's the only thing I can't find the home for, well right now anyway :.
.
I think is 304 ft/lbs.
Others have not used the BIG torque wrench and used locktight (i think).
Where I work, they have one.
I like the nut drop method.
Others have not used the BIG torque wrench and used locktight (i think).
Where I work, they have one.
I like the nut drop method.
- Thread starter
- #60
Well it's up and running [move] [/move]
I was able to identify that wire once I looked carefully through my pre teardown photos.
In the end this is what was done:
Very good Radiator installed - old one was contaminated by grey matter
Very good Power Steering cooler installed - old one was heavily pitted in the bends under the radiator
Rebuilt Alternator - Not Needed, only half the useful life of the brushes were used
Rebuilt Power Steering pump - O-Rings were hard and showed cracks when flexed
New Chain tensioner - casualty of war
New VC for Cooling fan - old bearing had some play
New belt idler - CDan's suggestion, old one was shot
Head gasket kit
PHH - had 70k on it, still looked ok but I was there
Oil pressure relief valve - because I was there
New EGR modulator valve - Kurts suggestion that it is the root of all things evil in the EGR system
because I forgot to hookup the MAF sensor it wouldn't idle worth s***
and now I have a CE light 
Well I'll deal with that tomorrow as well as cleaning the garage. Thanks to everyone with help and suggestions. I'll take some time tomorrow to look at the head gasket to see if I can notice anything but that thing is pretty torn up for not having failed yet.
[/move]I was able to identify that wire once I looked carefully through my pre teardown photos.
In the end this is what was done:
Very good Radiator installed - old one was contaminated by grey matter
Very good Power Steering cooler installed - old one was heavily pitted in the bends under the radiator
Rebuilt Alternator - Not Needed, only half the useful life of the brushes were used
Rebuilt Power Steering pump - O-Rings were hard and showed cracks when flexed
New Chain tensioner - casualty of war
New VC for Cooling fan - old bearing had some play
New belt idler - CDan's suggestion, old one was shot
Head gasket kit
PHH - had 70k on it, still looked ok but I was there
Oil pressure relief valve - because I was there
New EGR modulator valve - Kurts suggestion that it is the root of all things evil in the EGR system
because I forgot to hookup the MAF sensor it wouldn't idle worth s***
and now I have a CE light Well I'll deal with that tomorrow as well as cleaning the garage. Thanks to everyone with help and suggestions. I'll take some time tomorrow to look at the head gasket to see if I can notice anything but that thing is pretty torn up for not having failed yet.
