Topic 3474
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
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Re:The head is off
Rick,
I'm not sure you can physically get to that part of the EGR tube to clean it. With the head on and the EGR valve removed, it is a really tight fit back there. I attempted to clean the EGR tube but couldn't tell where it went past the rear of the head at #6.
-B-
Rick,
I'm not sure you can physically get to that part of the EGR tube to clean it. With the head on and the EGR valve removed, it is a really tight fit back there. I attempted to clean the EGR tube but couldn't tell where it went past the rear of the head at #6.
-B-
Re:The head is off
If you sent me a pic I didn't get it.
landtoy80@netscape.net
Was the EGR port in the intake chamber plugged?
If you sent me a pic I didn't get it.
landtoy80@netscape.net
Was the EGR port in the intake chamber plugged?
- Thread starter
- #24
Re:The head is off
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg121775#msg121775 date=1079411719]
If you sent me a pic I didn't get it.
landtoy80@netscape.net
Was the EGR port in the intake chamber plugged?
[/quote]
Haven't got there yet Kurt.
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg121775#msg121775 date=1079411719]
If you sent me a pic I didn't get it.
landtoy80@netscape.net
Was the EGR port in the intake chamber plugged?
[/quote]
Haven't got there yet Kurt.
R
robbie
Guest
Re:The head is off
Hey landtank, it also looks like carbon build up on the metal surface of the sealing ring on both pictures. If so this indicates that exhaust gasses were going some where, Maybe the coolant. Any way, I really can not tell for sure, it might be just bad picture. As for the smaller holes it is to slow the coolant down and allow it to absorb more heat (that is what a high up tech manager said at trd). I do wish some one would delevop MLS head gaskets for the 1FZ. I think this would be great, but at SEMA I talked to Gasket makers and they needed more numbers of engines to make it profitable. Money talks. later robbie
Hey landtank, it also looks like carbon build up on the metal surface of the sealing ring on both pictures. If so this indicates that exhaust gasses were going some where, Maybe the coolant. Any way, I really can not tell for sure, it might be just bad picture. As for the smaller holes it is to slow the coolant down and allow it to absorb more heat (that is what a high up tech manager said at trd). I do wish some one would delevop MLS head gaskets for the 1FZ. I think this would be great, but at SEMA I talked to Gasket makers and they needed more numbers of engines to make it profitable. Money talks. later robbie
- Thread starter
- #27
A turn for the worse
Well I started to remove the PS pump and the high pressure line was really on there. The line started to turn as I loosed the bolt. So with one hand manning the ratchet and the other holding some channel locks on the hose it finnally let go. Unfortunately when it did the channel locks slipped and my left elbow bumped the sprocket for the cams. I BROKE THE F%$^&*G CHAIN TENSIONER!!!!!
. Now I must pull the oil pans and front cover to replace it.
Wasn't there some other updated part in there, like a balancer or something? Can somebody help me out here?
I found it, it was the dampner
Well I started to remove the PS pump and the high pressure line was really on there. The line started to turn as I loosed the bolt. So with one hand manning the ratchet and the other holding some channel locks on the hose it finnally let go. Unfortunately when it did the channel locks slipped and my left elbow bumped the sprocket for the cams. I BROKE THE F%$^&*G CHAIN TENSIONER!!!!!
. Now I must pull the oil pans and front cover to replace it.I found it, it was the dampner
A turn for the worse
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg122117#msg122117 date=1079459493]
I BROKE THE F%$^&*G CHAIN TENSIONER!!!!!. Now I must pull the oil pans and front cover to replace it.[/quote]
Are you serious?
Man am I'm sorry to hear that.
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=12932;start=msg122117#msg122117 date=1079459493]
I BROKE THE F%$^&*G CHAIN TENSIONER!!!!!
. Now I must pull the oil pans and front cover to replace it.[/quote]Are you serious?
Man am I'm sorry to hear that.
R
robbie
Guest
Re:A turn for the worse
THat sucks about slipper.
As for the smaller holes it was explained that it allows better heat soak to happen around the rear cylinder (heat to coolant) when the coolant is slowed down. That was there explaination for what they did. later robbie
THat sucks about slipper.
As for the smaller holes it was explained that it allows better heat soak to happen around the rear cylinder (heat to coolant) when the coolant is slowed down. That was there explaination for what they did. later robbie
A turn for the worse
No worries, Rick. Just consider is preventative maintenance. May as well do the chain and slipper at the same time.
They're probably reducing the coolant flow rate to keep the head hotter at that location.
No worries, Rick. Just consider is preventative maintenance. May as well do the chain and slipper at the same time.
They're probably reducing the coolant flow rate to keep the head hotter at that location.
- Thread starter
- #32
A turn for the worse
I could use some help tonight.
I can't get the Vibration Damper bolt out. Went out and bought an 1/2" impact rated for 800 ftlbs torque and it didn't budge. I then bought some 1/4" x 1" flat stock, drilled a hole in it so I could bolt it to the vibration damper. One end rested on the frame and the other locked against the socket. The idea was to hold the damper from moving. We had a 3/4" breaker bar on the socket, with two guys pulling all we accomplished was bending the flat stock.
So tomorrow my plan is to buy larger flat stock, maybe 1/2" x 1 1/2" and some pipe to add to the breaker bar as an extension.
Anyone with some other ideas? The bolt is soaking in pennitrating oil but not sure how much that will help.
Thanks
I could use some help tonight.
I can't get the Vibration Damper bolt out. Went out and bought an 1/2" impact rated for 800 ftlbs torque and it didn't budge. I then bought some 1/4" x 1" flat stock, drilled a hole in it so I could bolt it to the vibration damper. One end rested on the frame and the other locked against the socket. The idea was to hold the damper from moving. We had a 3/4" breaker bar on the socket, with two guys pulling all we accomplished was bending the flat stock.
So tomorrow my plan is to buy larger flat stock, maybe 1/2" x 1 1/2" and some pipe to add to the breaker bar as an extension.
Anyone with some other ideas? The bolt is soaking in pennitrating oil but not sure how much that will help.
Thanks
A turn for the worse
You may have to use the starter. I know the chain is loose but it doesn't have to move very far. Since the head is off and the starter does not have to over come compression it will likely do it. All you have to do is "bump" it with the 3/4 drive breaker bar stuffed against the bottom of the RH frame rail. You could rig a dowel or such through the cam gear and lift it up to keep the chain on the crank gear when it bumps.
This is a potentially dangerous trick but may be necessary.
I'm out of ideas at the moment :-\
Oh, keep all of your parts clear of the area when you do it.
You may have to use the starter. I know the chain is loose but it doesn't have to move very far. Since the head is off and the starter does not have to over come compression it will likely do it. All you have to do is "bump" it with the 3/4 drive breaker bar stuffed against the bottom of the RH frame rail. You could rig a dowel or such through the cam gear and lift it up to keep the chain on the crank gear when it bumps.
This is a potentially dangerous trick but may be necessary.
I'm out of ideas at the moment :-\
Oh, keep all of your parts clear of the area when you do it.
A turn for the worse
Rick,
The way I did it was to get a piece of 1/4" X 6" flat stock about 18" long. I used something like a 2" holesaw for the main bolt, and drilled two holes something like 3 1/2" on center for the two smaller bolts in the damper pulley. By bolting the flat stock to the two holes, the large 2" hole allows you to get a socket on the big bolt. I can't remember if it locked up on the frame or it I made the plate long enough to hit the floor when turned. I can't find the da*n thing now to take a pic or get the exact measurements but it worked really well. The only danger is pulling against the two smaller bolts but I had no trouble.
Bill
Rick,
The way I did it was to get a piece of 1/4" X 6" flat stock about 18" long. I used something like a 2" holesaw for the main bolt, and drilled two holes something like 3 1/2" on center for the two smaller bolts in the damper pulley. By bolting the flat stock to the two holes, the large 2" hole allows you to get a socket on the big bolt. I can't remember if it locked up on the frame or it I made the plate long enough to hit the floor when turned. I can't find the da*n thing now to take a pic or get the exact measurements but it worked really well. The only danger is pulling against the two smaller bolts but I had no trouble.
Bill
A turn for the worse
Another thing to try since you have help is to take the starter off and have one of your buddys stick the pointy end of a tire iron in the flexplate teeth to lock the motor up.
I don't know if it would help you because of the amount of room you have but if you can borrow/rent a larger impact gun, it would put out more torque. You may have to take the condensor loose or out to get the gun in. I took some measurements and it is 8" from the bolt to the condensor. The 3/4" drive gun I have is 10". A 1 1/4" six point fits the bolt so maybe you could get this with the gun. If you had to actually remove the condersor you could get serious an go with an 1" drive.
Bill
Another thing to try since you have help is to take the starter off and have one of your buddys stick the pointy end of a tire iron in the flexplate teeth to lock the motor up.
I don't know if it would help you because of the amount of room you have but if you can borrow/rent a larger impact gun, it would put out more torque. You may have to take the condensor loose or out to get the gun in. I took some measurements and it is 8" from the bolt to the condensor. The 3/4" drive gun I have is 10". A 1 1/4" six point fits the bolt so maybe you could get this with the gun. If you had to actually remove the condersor you could get serious an go with an 1" drive.
Bill
- Thread starter
- #36
A turn for the worse
Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about something along what Photoman was describing as far as the flat stock tool. Honestly the starter option scares the s*** out of me and I'll use that as a last resort. If I stand any chance of getting this thing back together for Monday I have to have all the tear down done by tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about something along what Photoman was describing as far as the flat stock tool. Honestly the starter option scares the s*** out of me and I'll use that as a last resort. If I stand any chance of getting this thing back together for Monday I have to have all the tear down done by tomorrow.
A turn for the worse
Rick,
Some of it is coming back to me know. Measure your big socket so you drill big enough with the holesaw. Drill the smaller holes somewhat oversize. I put the socket only on the bolt, slid the plate over this, then put the smaller bolts in the damper pulley. That way it's not all bolted up tight and then you find out the big socket won't fit in. You may need a cheater pipe on the 3/4 drive breaker bar.
Bill
Rick,
Some of it is coming back to me know. Measure your big socket so you drill big enough with the holesaw. Drill the smaller holes somewhat oversize. I put the socket only on the bolt, slid the plate over this, then put the smaller bolts in the damper pulley. That way it's not all bolted up tight and then you find out the big socket won't fit in.
You may need a cheater pipe on the 3/4 drive breaker bar.Bill
- Thread starter
- #38
A turn for the worse
I hear ya Bill
. Got the packages today. I'm bringing the rad down and have it pressure tested tomorrow. Just don't need a leak there after getting everything running.
I hear ya Bill
. Got the packages today. I'm bringing the rad down and have it pressure tested tomorrow. Just don't need a leak there after getting everything running.
- Thread starter
- #39
A turn for the worse
After sleeping on it I decided to grab my package and try the starter idea.
Bolts off! Thanks for the encouragement Dan!
After sleeping on it I decided to grab my package and try the starter idea.
Bolts off! Thanks for the encouragement Dan!
A turn for the worse
