I understand that different years of the 100 series have different settings for TDC. Does anyone know where I can find the TDC spec for my 2000 LC?
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Thanks. I found info on 98 and 99 but according to a well known timing belt video on the 100 series, the mechanic stated that different years of the 100 series have different settings. I will check out the link you sent.
Engine Repair Manual (2uz-Fe) -> Engine Mechanical -> Timing Belt
I understand that different years of the 100 series have different settings for TDC. Does anyone know where I can find the TDC spec for my 2000 LC?
So technically that is correct. There is only one but where is it on different years is the question. Some I have heard are 50° past TDC.. right on the TDC mark...or before TDC.There is only ONE TDC.
Got it. I appreciate the feedback and clarifying that for me.Don't confuse a) TDC with b) the optimal position for belt removal of the crankshaft timing mark IN RELATION TO TDC. As Medro says there is only one TDC - which is when the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 0 on the timing indicator on the lower cover. The optimal position of the crankshaft pulley timing mark (b above) for belt removal is 50 degrees past TDC, which is when the crankshaft pulley timing mark is lined up with the center bolt of the driver side TB idler pulley, as the OTRAMM video shows. Your question was just a little bit off which resulted in some confusion.
I am trying to replace the timing belt and before I took the belt off, the crank was past the zero in order for the cams to line up. So I left it a little past the 0 with the cams lined up (took the belt off) and now trying to put my new belt on and with the belt crank markers lining up with the white dot...now the belt cam markings don't line up with the cam timing mark. Any advice?Don't confuse a) TDC with b) the optimal position for belt removal of the crankshaft timing mark IN RELATION TO TDC. As Medro says there is only one TDC - which is when the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 0 on the timing indicator on the lower cover. The optimal position of the crankshaft pulley timing mark (b above) for belt removal is 50 degrees past TDC, which is when the crankshaft pulley timing mark is lined up with the center bolt of the driver side TB idler pulley, as the OTRAMM video shows. Your question was just a little bit off which resulted in some confusion.
I am trying to replace the timing belt and before I took the belt off, the crank was past the zero in order for the cams to line up. So I left it a little past the 0 with the cams lined up (took the belt off) and now trying to put my new belt on and with the belt crank markers lining up with the white dot...now the belt cam markings don't line up with the cam timing mark. Any advice?
Not entirely sure I understand the question but it sounds like you haven't watched the OTRAMM video enough times. It's very good, and especially helpful when he zooms in on the timing marks.
Not entirely sure I understand the question but it sounds like you haven't watched the OTRAMM video enough times. It's very good, and especially helpful when he zooms in on the timing marks.
Thanks for the reply. So it doesn't matter that the crank was past 0 when when I took the belt off? Should I put the harmonic balancer pulley back on and turn the crank back to 0. I couldn't get the cam pulleys to line up with the crank at 0. Just don't want to bend a valve.Just turn the cams to where they need to be while putting the belt on with what you are suggesting? You have enough wiggle room to get them both lined up.
The crank is supposed to be 50* past 0 before you remove the belt. Based on your first picture above of the crank pulley, it looks correct. As long as you didn't turn the crank after taking the belt off then you're fine. Disregard the timing marks on the backing plates behind the cams for now. Just slightly turn the cams when putting the belt on. Start with the driver's side cam and turn it slightly until the arrow on the belt lines up with the mark on the cam pulley (not the mark on the cam backing plate). Once the belt arrow is lined up with the DS cam pulley mark, then turn that pulley back until it has tension on the belt. After that, while keeping tension on the DS cam + belt, do the same with the passenger side cam pulley and belt arrow. Then install the timing belt tensioner, etc.Thanks for the reply. So it doesn't matter that the crank was past 0 when when I took the belt off? Should I put the harmonic balancer pulley back on and turn the crank back to 0. I couldn't get the cam pulleys to line up with the crank at 0. Just don't want to bend a valve.
This is exactly what I needed to hear. I'm going to try that and turn the motor over a couple times by hand and see where I'm at. Thanks for the help guys.The crank is supposed to be 50* past 0 before you remove the belt. Based on your first picture above of the crank pulley, it looks correct. As long as you didn't turn the crank after taking the belt off then you're fine. Disregard the timing marks on the backing plates behind the cams for now. Just slightly turn the cams when putting the belt on. Start with the driver's side cam and turn it slightly until the arrow on the belt lines up with the mark on the cam pulley (not the mark on the cam backing plate). Once the belt arrow is lined up with the DS cam pulley mark, then turn that pulley back until it has tension on the belt. After that, while keeping tension on the DS cam + belt, do the same with the passenger side cam pulley and belt arrow. Then install the timing belt tensioner, etc.
You really need the FSM...
This is exactly what I needed to hear. I'm going to try that and turn the motor over a couple times by hand and see where I'm at. Thanks for the help guys.
No, don't turn the motor over, just disengage the belt from the driver side cam and turn the cam clockwise a couple of teeth so that the arrow on the belt lines up with the notch on the inside of the cam pulley. Then do the same on the passenger side. Watch that portion of the video one more time.