Toilet trouble. . . .

[Urrrk]

They make bolts with a lag screw on one end and threaded on the other. They should be in the hardware store right next to the ones with the flat gizmus that fits into the ring-a-ma-goober.

Of course if it corroded the ring, it probably rotted the floor...

Also check the height without wax ring. They are meant to deform and make up differences.

Take a crayon and mark the outline of the toilet. You could build up height with tile cement, if you really needed to.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Crap on this - stick to Cruisers. Slam the warm wax seal on the crap tube, throw some weight on it and tighten the bolts. Sheeebiz. This is sooo simple. I could do it as drunk as I am right now!!

 

[Jman]

They make a broken flange kit that fits over the original and the t-bolts go thru that. I used plumbers putty, rolled into a snake to level a toilet once seemed to work well. Trust me, if it can be fxxxed up, I've dealt with it.

Sweet. I knew I couldn't be the first sad sack to have this problem.

This problem has been brewing for a while, but it looks like the concrete and tile held back any leaks until the metal flange corroded through. So the sub floor looks great, and the sheetrock on the ceiling below looks salvageable--the leak was right over the corner joint at the soffit, so it showed there first without deforming the rock.

So, one broken flange kit, a little chiseling, a little cement, and some plumbers putty and I might come out of this okay.

 

[Jman]

Well, what do you know:

For overkill, I might use floor screws AND cement to set this puppy. And I might seal it with some sort of pee-resistant paint after it is installed and before I set the bowl. I am into over-engineering. That's why I own a Cruiser.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

They make a broken flange kit that fits over the original and the t-bolts go thru that. I used plumbers putty, rolled into a snake to level a toilet once seemed to work well. Trust me, if it can be ****ed up, I've dealt with it.

I recall it is called an expaning flange or expandable flange. (W/o pics I don't know if that will work for you) They are available at Ace where I worked during college. Or bolt it to the floor. Mark you holes well and put in drop in anchors in the concret. Hust don't tighte them too tight or you will break the toilet.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Well, what do you know:

For overkill, I might use floor screws AND cement to set this puppy. And I might seal it with some sort of pee-resistant paint after it is installed and before I set the bowl. I am into over-engineering. That's why I own a Cruiser.

Also get it blasted and powder coated like Shane but only use OEM parts.

 

[92LC_good2go]

And this is why - despite knowing how to replace a toilet, and having done it plenty of times elsewhere than my old house... I still suffer with having to repair my damn old 1941 toilets here.

Too much aggravation with some houses, and especially with older houses.


ALL of our bathrooms have tile floors, where the tile is set into concrete.
All of our walls are plaster... and they all have this rebar-like metal bars and metal mesh embedded ito the inner plaster.
And... just to top it all off --- the damnable 1941 American Standard toilets I've got... are... no longer "standard" in size! The holes in the walls are larger than modern toilets need. I'd have to board up around the holes in the plaster walls, and that'd looks FUGLY AS HELL!!!


Not to mention that most of our piping is original (1941) copper. And Orange has some of the hardest water known on this entire planet!! Every freakin' time I (or any plumber - it's not just me) put a wrench to a pipe (unless it's in the kitchen, the butler's kitchen, or the first-floor half-bathroom) in this house, the ******* thing breaks further up than I was working on! Up... and up... and up... until, eventually, you have to break open ceilings and walls (plaster, all)!



Hey! Jman! Don't over-engineer your toilet replacement too much. When you want to replace this one, you'll only have to work harder at that replacement.

 

[Jman]

I know. My "next house" is going to be an ultra modern house with easy access to utility lines. I think I'm going to have it in a radial design, with a central utility shaft. All plumbing will have access panels.