To start, depress the brake pedal. Car not starting.

[Azi]

Hello,

Its a 2009 EU spec Land Cruiser 200 4.5 diesel (1VD-FTV) 200series and the truck just stopped working without any signs of something going wrong...

On the dash it shows the message "To start, depress the brake pedal, and push the engine switch":

Indeed, the car does not percept the pedal for being depressed as the taillights do not illuminate when the ignition is on and the gear stick does not unlocks/move when the brake is pressed.

Together with this, VCS, PCS, 4Lo and so on started illuminating on the dash. Connected my cheap OBD reader and tried to check what error it gives so I got the following:

P0504 - Brake pedal position (BPP) switch A/B - correlation
C1246 - ABS
B2060 - PCS

Deleted all the error successfully and tried again but no luck.
Disconnected the battery for few hours - no luck.
Changed the key fob battery - no luck.
Tried to start with the spare key and changed its battery too - no luck.
Decided to check the brake pedal switch - took it off, cleaned it but again no luck and then took another brake pedal switch just to be sure - no luck.
Checked the fuses - everything seems fine.
Tried to jump start from the passenger side battery - no luck.

Can anyone guide me or advise what to check/do next?
As I said, the car has giving zero signs of something failuring - it was parked and then no start...

As a side note, I am removing all the errors successfully but once I press the brake and try to start - they immediately reoccur.

 

[1Maverick]

Sorry to hear that. Did you check all the exposed wiring? These soy based wires are rodent magnets. This just happened to another Cruiser owner a couple days ago.

 

[NikP]

Here's the service manual things to check:

DTC P0504 Brake Switch "A" / "B" Correlation​

DESCRIPTION
The stop light switch is a duplex system that transmits two signals: STP and ST1-. These two signals are used by the ECM to monitor whether or not the brake system is working properly. If the signals, which indicate the brake pedal is being depressed and released, are detected simultaneously, the ECM interprets this as a malfunction in the stop light switch and stores the DTC.



HINT:The normal signal conditions are as shown in the table below.

Signal (ECM Terminal)	Brake Pedal Released	In Transition	Brake Pedal Depressed
STP	OFF	ON	ON
ST1-	ON	ON	OFF

1. [OFF] denotes ground potential.
2. [ON] denotes battery potential (+B).
3. On the intelligent tester, both the Data List items Stop Light Switch and ST1 are ON when the brake pedal is depressed because the characteristics of ST1 indication are the opposite of the Stop Light Switch indication.

DTC Code​	DTC Detection Condition​	Trouble Area​
P0504​	Conditions (a), (b) and (c) continue for 0.5 seconds or more (1 trip detection logic): (a) The ignition switch is ON. (b) The brake pedal is released. (c) The STP signal is OFF when the ST1- signal is OFF.	Short in stop light switch signal circuit STOP fuse IGN fuse Stop light switch ECM

 

[linuxgod]

@NikP's info from the FSM is spot-on. I'd definitely double check the STOP fuse first (#2) and then the IGN one (#3) since you're in there as you're not seeing brake lights and I'd even go so far as to swap it even if you think it looks ok.

Have you installed any aftermarket LED lights, particularly in the rear (i.e. turn signal, reverse light, etc?) I've read on the forum one or two people to have electrical issues because their LED light bulb shorted out.

It is certainly possible the brake light switch listed above is bad as well... someone else recently ended up cleaning theirs to fix an issue IIRC but that may not always be a fix. That (#4) would be my next guess before #1 or #5 in the list.

 

[Fisher23]

Sounds like the brake switch down by the brake peddle went out.

 

[Sandroad]

Wire harness rodent damage?
Water corrosion in a wiring connector?
Corroded fuse?
Bad ground in the ignition circuit?

 

[Azi]

Short update, a positive one.

I replaced the STOP fuse (15A, number 16 in the engine bay fuse box) with a new one, no matter the fact that the current/previous one looks OK and the car started.

If someone in future find his way to this thread in future, please have in mind that I also disassembled my brake switch and cleaned it very detailed with isopropyl alcohol and I also bought a new (second hand) one for 15 euro.
The car now starts up normally with both old and the "new" brake switch, but could be due to the cleaning and the new fuse as well - not clear.

For EU located people: Brake switch that I bought was from Toyota Avensis T27 (T270) and it is exactly the same as the OEM one in the 200s.
It's a very popular car compared to the 200 and it's way easier to find in EU so the parts prices are relatively cheap and way cheaper than the parts preciesly for the 200.

Thanks everyone for the support and great directions that you gave!

I am leaving as well the only number that could be found on the brake switch (consider it as "part number")
F80CS53

It's a small green thing located on the back of the brake pedal and plugging/unplugging it is a childs play - rotate and pop, no tools required.

 

[linuxgod]

If you still have the old fuse, it should be pretty easy to test continuity. My original thought was that it was broken but just not in the spot which should be visible.

 

[bloc]

@Azi Looks like 84340-69075 is the part number up through the 2015 model year in most markets.

 

[Azi]

Thanks @bloc for providing the part number!
@linuxgod thank you sincerely for your advice to try with another fuse, no matter the fact that the current one was looking fine!

Another thing that I would like to share in case someone find this thread from google or something:
Holding down the START button for 20seconds while the ignition is ON will start the car WITHOUT pressing the brake pedal. This could be very handy in combination with the shift unlock button located next to the gear lever to move the car home and clean/wait for the new switch.
Keep in mind that your brake lights will not work and driving home will be challenging for the traffic behind.

 

[TheComedian]

Thanks @bloc for providing the part number!
@linuxgod thank you sincerely for your advice to try with another fuse, no matter the fact that the current one was looking fine!

Another thing that I would like to share in case someone find this thread from google or something:
Holding down the START button for 20seconds while the ignition is ON will start the car WITHOUT pressing the brake pedal. This could be very handy in combination with the shift unlock button located next to the gear lever to move the car home and clean/wait for the new switch.
Keep in mind that your brake lights will not work and driving home will be challenging for the traffic behind.

I am kinda curious if that 20s thing will also work with my manual shifter 200….
Oh and for Toyo parts I can always recommend PartSouq. Around 30-35€ shipping from the gulf but at least here in Germany then the parts are still way way way cheaper than from the Dealer even with OEM parts

 

[Fisher23]

I'm curious of the old fuse is good or bad, and a continuity would check that?

Even if the old brake switch was bad, I'm not sure how that would possibly blow the fuse, as that switch just turns on and off without a ground.
My thought being it was the brake switch causing the issue.

Thanks for the 20 second press, I'll have to test that. I do carry a spare brake switch in my emergency parts. I've had brake light flicking (caused by the brake switch) when the vehicle is off in very cold weather.

 

[Frkens]

I had the same issue as @Azi on my 2008 vx200 4.5 diesel v8 here in Denmark.

The 20 sec hold down did the trick. I tested the brake pedal switch. Works fine. No fuses blown.

Any ideas?