To AC or not AC - that is the question (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

To AC or not AC. My 80 (diesel 1hz) has the 'single dealer option' AC configuration fitted ex-factory and it's not worked in the time I've owned the vehicle (9 yrs now). I struggle to see that it's worth trying to get working despite Oz summer temps being up to mid-40's.

The original AC compressor is still mounted to the motor, but I run with the AC belt removed so it never does anything. There is broken wiring that should go the AC high-temp cutout thermoswitch. Never bothered to get an AC and auto elec shop to try and figure out the problems.

Do you have AC fully working 100 percent in your 80 or do you not use it? Have you fully deleted/removed AC if it doesn't work?

 

[brockdeck]

All I know is, to speak on behalf of my nation, Americans LOVE air conditioning.

Your system probably needs some rehab after all this time, but I would sift through the factory wiring diagrams for the AC and see what you are looking at. It might be a relatively simple fix and well worth it. Though, it’s highly likely you will need to do some rehab overall throughout the system.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I love my AC. Yeah, you can live without it, and I have done a few times over the years.
On those 40°+ days, a few minutes run time, you go from sweating your ass off to riding in comfort.

At the end of a long day, I'd rather ride home in comfort
I reckoning if you've survived 9 years without it, you can survive without it longer, but it sure can be nice to have.

 

[greentruck]

I prefer the AC, but here in the Midwest US, the humidity outpaces temperature as a cause for annoyance. Last time I did without AC was when the clutch seized up and took it and much of the dash electrics out at the same time. It was a hot day in August and, while I was only an hour from home, I was real glad to get there.

At least in the US, pricing on the AC clutch vs the entire AC compressor with clutch is very little, so you might as well replace the entire unit. Pricing has alsio come down in the last few years, so probably a good time as any to do this sort of work.

 

[sunrk]

I'm keen to make the AC work as it's really the only sub-system I've never done anything to so I feel the need to take it on as a new project esp as Aussie summer 2020/21 is just around the corner. I have a new oldstock Australian-made genuine Toyota evap assembly (was just a fluke about 8 yrs ago), but not much else. The AC condensor I think is an original r12 one (can you tell by comparing the oem condensors? what about for the compressor?).

 

[Joe Link]

Despite the Pacific Northwest where I live having a very moderate climate, I can't imagine not having AC.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm keen to make the AC work as it's really the only sub-system I've never done anything to so I feel the need to take it on as a new project esp as Aussie summer 2020/21 is just around the corner. I have a new oldstock Australian-made genuine Toyota evap assembly (was just a fluke about 8 yrs ago), but not much else. The AC condensor I think is an original r12 one (can you tell by comparing the oem condensors? what about for the compressor?).

I don't think any of the hardware is different?

The compressor will have different Schroeder valve assemblies for the Hi and Lo gas ports.
The r124 gas needs a different lubricant oil from memory.

 

[sunrk]

The AC pressure switch (part 88645-60020) appears unavailable from any supplier and the pipe it goes into (for RHD - part 88706-60010 which includes the pressure switch) is also unavailable anywhere. I don't think any of the pipes for my 80's AC have any damage but they're all originals. Trying to get as much new hardware as possible is usually my aim with something like this.

 

[Brandon98]

In the humid Southern US, AC is a must with a leather interior. I had a clutch squeal and fail, so I replaced the whole compressor assembly with a new Denso unit. Replaced the condenser and receiver dryer while the system was apart. I took about 3 hours of leisurely work with nothing more than basic tools. (My son is an HVAC tech and evac'd the system for me). The systems are straightforward and simple with everything repairable, unlike "modern cars" with lots of data buses and electronic modules.

 

[sunrk]

I agree that everything is very accessible compared to modern vehicles - Only caveat being with stuff not taken apart for a very long time means a high possibility of breaking things trying to un-do connections and fasteners. Nothing unusual in that with 80's though!

 

[Brandon98]

I agree that everything is very accessible compared to modern vehicles - Only caveat being with stuff not taken apart for a very long time means a high possibility of breaking things trying to un-do connections and fasteners. Nothing unusual in that with 80's though!

Penetrating oil, patience, and time. Note that you'll likely have to swap top plates between compressors, so you'll have at least six steel into aluminum connections with possible galvanic corrosion (one each HP and LP hoses and 4x 6mm Allen head bolts) . PB Blaster for a few days with tapping to get it down the threads is a good plan. On the upside, the receiver-dryer and condensor are cheap, so if a bolt breaks off, so be it. Also, as long as the hard line is still good, a decent hose shop should be able to make you a new hose with the original ends if the replacement hose is NLA. For a 1FZ LHD configuration, hose bolts are torqued to 7 lb-ft (84 inch pounds) and the 4 compressor mounting bolts are 18 lb/feet. The tensioner pulley lock nut in the middle of the pulley is 27 lb/ft.

 

[sunrk]

Thanks. I'll get a pic of the existing compressor and those in the know might be able to tell me if it's an R12 or r134a one (if they are actually different besides the connections). My 80 is 3/92 build so I'm guessing it's R12 not r134a (no I can't go off the bonnet or engine bay labelling as the bonnet is not original to the vehicle).

Agree on the penetrant, etc. as that's a norm for most procedures on stuff not disassembled for a long time.

 

[Brandon98]

If you've got access to R12, stick with R12. Otherwise you'll have to flush the system, replace O-rings and have the hoses rebuilt with new rubber; R134 PAG oil is not compatible with R12 mineral oil. To identify the system, R12 and R134 use different valves. R12 schrader valves are externally threaded, R134 is internally threaded. Eric the Car Guy generally makes straightforward videos:

 

[maj75]

Funny enough, my ‘93 FJZ came from NSW and has terrific AC. Got a couple of stickers under the hood from AC Shops down there. I was having an issue where when driving, the AC would quit blowing cold air. Checked everything and couldn’t find a fault. We eventually discovered that the loose battery would slide forward and hit the AC dryer/ switch which is in front of the battery. Got the battery secured and all good now.

 

[lumbee1]

I purchased my Cruiser with broken AC with no intention of fixing it. A year later I was driving my family home when we drove through a rainstorm in the middle of summer at night. The humidty in the vehicle was so thick the windows kept fogging up and I could not see to drive. Both my wife and I took turn wiping the inside of the windshield but it immediately fogged over after just a few seconds. We drove slow but eventually made it home. After that, I was determined then to fix the AC for safety purposes and since then it has come in quite handy for that exact reason.

 

[sunrk]

Ok here is the AC compressor in my 80 with the red cap removed off the fitting. I don't know what the fitting does.