TMPS sensors for second wheels set (1 Viewer)

[Tadem]

I like to have a second set of 5 wheels and was going to go TMPS sensor cloning route for this purpose.
Second set will be 18" Tundra TRD wheels.

So far been looking at Autel or Launch sensors.
They both offer metal and aluminum constructions.

What type do I need for TRD wheels?
Also is sensor cloning is best route? can I program second set using teachstream without erasing existing one?

it is for LX570

 

[KLF]

My solution was to get a Carista device (Carista OBD2 App | Diagnose, customize and service your car - https://caristaapp.com/) and use that twice a year to edit the recorded IDs. I was not able to use Techstream to change them. Yes, you have to spend $40 a year to keep the app running, but it's worth it to me. Works very well and is useful on other vehicles for diagnosis and customizations.

Pretty sure the LX is the same as the LC in that it can only remember one set of IDs. Pretty stoopid, given that my old '07 ES350 had the ability to remember 2 sets and switching back and forth was done with a simple pushbutton switch in the glove box.

 

[lx200inAR]

I like to have a second set of 5 wheels and was going to go TMPS sensor cloning route for this purpose.
Second set will be 18" Tundra TRD wheels.

So far been looking at Autel or Launch sensors.
They both offer metal and aluminum constructions.

What type do I need for TRD wheels?
Also is sensor cloning is best route? can I program second set using teachstream without erasing existing one?

it is for LX570

Not 100% sure on the most modern LXs, but for sure pre-2016 you can not save 2 sets of sensors.

As far as which sensors, i'm not sure what you mean by "metal and aluminum". The important thing is getting the right angle and the right freq that is compatible with your LX. Basically all aluminum Toyota wheels (including the TRDs) use the same angle and all steel Toyota wheels use a different angle, so maybe that is the question that Autel/Launch are asking.

Which is best route is up to you. You can get a 2nd set of OEM (or aftermarket for that matter) and switch the codes with one of the OBDII programmers, or you can get a cloned set. You will either need an extra programmer to code the cloneable set, or have your tire shop do that.

 

[40Man]

You cannot save two sets of sensors in Techstream on the LC.

You can change sensors in Techstream with this cable and a PC: Amazon product ASIN B078N34ZPW
With this method you need to have all of the codes written down for each set.

You can do it simply with the Launch tool device (after updating device firmware): Amazon product ASIN B09CFZSJQX


You can also use Carista as stated above or Autel. Carista also requires that you have the codes for each sensor written down for each set.

I have used Techstream, Carista and the Launch tool. The launch tool is easiest, and can also clear codes, etc., without a subscription or internet service. Great to keep in a bag in case you need to clear DTCs when in the backcountry.

I prefer the Launch tool, as you don't have to write down sensor numbers or remember them. I prefer the Denso/Pacific (OEM) sensors as they have very long lasting batteries and the pricing is reasonable.

If you have a Discount Tire near you, they will also program your sensors for free. Some have had trouble getting newer Land Cruisers to program at Discount as they don't actively update the firmware on their tools. I found that having them program sensors for the LC as a similar year LX570 did the trick. YMMV.

The new 4Runner has an automatic learn feature, so when so swap wheels, and tell it to relearn, it auto programs the new sensors as you drive. Wish the LC had that, it would make wheel swaps much easier!

 

[KLF]

If you have a Discount Tire near you, they will also program your sensors for free.

This is also true at Town Fair Tire, but the "free" part is debatable. You have to sit in line and wait for one of the techs to find a time to do it when they don't have waiting paying customers to service. And then I feel obligated to tip the guy $20 for his trouble. Did that route twice and decided it was too much hassle.

 

[doru]

I did not do this for LC/LX as I have only one set, but on all my other cars I have the same sensor ID's in both sets.

I'm using Autel dual band sensors Autel MX-Sensor 1-Sensor R and their Maxi TS508 programming tool to clone the OEM id's and do all the TPMS programming (including rotation, changing sensors ID's in the cars' computers, checking battery status, reading ID's after summer/winter to figure out which wheel goes where, etc.). The tool gets software updates for newer cars. Connects to the car via OBDII. Never had any problems. Money well spent.
Tip: it is on sale today and tomorrow on Amazon during their Prime day! $179 - the cheapens I ever saw it (buy from Autel vendor).

The tool works with the LX sensors - it can read and activate them. I have not tried to do any programming though.

As for metal or rubber stems it is about the visuals and the corrosion. I learned from experience what winter driving can do to your stems to the point of having to cut the stems off. On my steel wheels that I use during winter the stems are always rubber. On my summer wheels the stems are metal silver or black depending on the wheel finish. For winter wheels I always use plastic valve caps in a coordinated color. Aluminum oxidizes and fuses on the stem. In case when I'm using metal stems on winter wheels I use anti-seize grease on the stem threads. Autel sensors allows you to use whatever stems you like with the same sensor as long as they have the same stem connection type (screw or pressed).

 

[arrivederci]

I did not do this for LC/LX as I have only one set, but on all my other cars I have the same sensor ID's in both sets.

I'm using Autel dual band sensors Autel MX-Sensor 1-Sensor R and their Maxi TS508 programming tool to clone the OEM id's and do all the TPMS programming (including rotation, changing sensors ID's in the cars' computers, checking battery status, reading ID's after summer/winter to figure out which wheel goes where, etc.). The tool gets software updates for newer cars. Connects to the car via OBDII. Never had any problems. Money well spent.
Tip: it is on sale today and tomorrow on Amazon during their Prime day! $179 - the cheapens I ever saw it (buy from Autel vendor).

The tool works with the LX sensors - it can read and activate them. I have not tried to do any programming though.

As for metal or rubber stems it is about the visuals and the corrosion. I learned from experience what winter driving can do to your stems to the point of having to cut the stems off. On my steel wheels that I use during winter the stems are always rubber. On my summer wheels the stems are metal silver or black depending on the wheel finish. For winter wheels I always use plastic valve caps in a coordinated color. Aluminum oxidizes and fuses on the stem. In case when I'm using metal stems on winter wheels I use anti-seize grease on the stem threads. Autel sensors allows you to use whatever stems you like with the same sensor as long as they have the same stem connection type (screw or pressed).

+1. I bought an Autel TS508 a few years ago after trying to have Discount Tire handle it for me (multiple visits, TPMS warning lights, etc etc). I found it on ebay for $114. It also works great on my other cars as I swap wheels. I have Carista as well but don't keep the subscription active. While it is possible to do with Carista, it isn't nearly as easy - as stated above you have to have the codes written down somewhere and then key them in. With the Autel, you scan each sensor on the wheel, then update the car from the tool.

 

[grinchy]

Using a ts408 here, cloning ids only. Have used techstream in the past to change ids. Using it across cars, replacing all the oem sensors with Autel as the oem fail.
Never have to rely on a tire store to be open / available to do this simple task.

 

[40Man]

This is also true at Town Fair Tire, but the "free" part is debatable. You have to sit in line and wait for one of the techs to find a time to do it when they don't have waiting paying customers to service. And then I feel obligated to tip the guy $20 for his trouble. Did that route twice and decided it was too much hassle.

My experience has always been to pull up to the air check station and a salesman (not tire tech) takes care of it, but I still had to drive out there. The Launch programmer is fairly inexpensive, and will allow you to add OEM or cloned Launch sensors to the Cruiser. Price is reasonable too.

I still see the value in Techstream for other functions, and the above cable works better than any of the other "clear" types. I always keep my Launch programmer in the rig to get out of limp mode if necessary.

 

[Tadem]

Any i

I did not do this for LC/LX as I have only one set, but on all my other cars I have the same sensor ID's in both sets.

I'm using Autel dual band sensors Autel MX-Sensor 1-Sensor R and their Maxi TS508 programming tool to clone the OEM id's and do all the TPMS programming (including rotation, changing sensors ID's in the cars' computers, checking battery status, reading ID's after summer/winter to figure out which wheel goes where, etc.). The tool gets software updates for newer cars. Connects to the car via OBDII. Never had any problems. Money well spent.
Tip: it is on sale today and tomorrow on Amazon during their Prime day! $179 - the cheapens I ever saw it (buy from Autel vendor).

The tool works with the LX sensors - it can read and activate them. I have not tried to do any programming though.

As for metal or rubber stems it is about the visuals and the corrosion. I learned from experience what winter driving can do to your stems to the point of having to cut the stems off. On my steel wheels that I use during winter the stems are always rubber. On my summer wheels the stems are metal silver or black depending on the wheel finish. For winter wheels I always use plastic valve caps in a coordinated color. Aluminum oxidizes and fuses on the stem. In case when I'm using metal stems on winter wheels I use anti-seize grease on the stem threads. Autel sensors allows you to use whatever stems you like with the same sensor as long as they have the same stem connection type (screw or pressed).

Any problems with Autel sensors battery life? Do they only go 5 years and than you have to swap them again?

 

[bloc]

Pacific industries sensors, which are OE without the Toyota part number. Then techstream or carista to program. Before you program the new IDs make note of the old ones so the assemblies don’t need to be opened or scanned to determine them.

No question of quality or lifespan, no issues with sensor confusion if you store the spare wheels on-site, and cheaper than aftermarket plus the programmer.

 

[doru]

Some clarification for the OP about same id's on both set of wheels. The sensors do not transmit anything while the wheels stay in storage so there is no issues with storing the wheels next to the truck. This is by design so their batteries last long enough.

 

[doru]

Any problems with Autel sensors battery life? Do they only go 5 years and than you have to swap them again?

I had no problems. I always buy new sensors from Autel (Autel vendor on amazon) to make sure the sensors are in good conditions.

 

[bloc]

Some clarification for the OP about same id's on both set of wheels. The sensors do not transmit anything while the wheels stay in storage so there is no issues with storing the wheels next to the truck. This is by design so their batteries last long enough.

Not sure this is true, people have reported issues with this exact scenario.

 

[doru]

Not sure this is true, people have reported issues with this exact scenario.

Do you remember if the issue reported were with Autel sensors or with the OEM?

 

[bloc]

Do you remember if the issue reported were with Autel sensors or with the OEM?

They probably had both, to have two signals of a given ID. This would never happen with two sets of OE or PI.

I don’t remember which set they had mounted, but since it came up just after getting the second set it is plausible it was the clones mounted and OE in storage.

 

[doru]

Good data point.
In use I haven't had any issues. As for programming I always do it away from the many other wheels on cars and in storage, meaning doing it outside of the garage.
I did not have mixed sensors, OEM/Autel for long time so can't talk about it.

 

[doru]

This might also have to do with the particular sensor design. I know some do not wake up unless the wheels are turning at a minimum set speed (centrifugal sensor) or are activated by a strong enough signal (few inches proximity) that is usually a lot stronger than what the car signal is.
But I do not know this for either Toyota or Autel.
Curious to know though.

 

[slipkid13]

I bought a 2nd set a discount tire, they cloned them for me and I have had zero issues with my 2013 LX and two sets of rims/tires. It takes them a minute after one set is installed, they go around to each wheel, read the sensor and I am good to go.

 

[doru]

Any problems with Autel sensors battery life? Do they only go 5 years and than you have to swap them again?

I only had a set that went to 5+ years on my Camry and batteries were still going. On the other hand if the car goes 5 years with the same tires it means low driven miles so the fact the battery was still good is expected. Just make sure you get the sensors from a good source.