Will you lose a spring heavily flexed with med springs and Ls?
Tires 285 VS. 315
- Thread starter westonirons
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I didn't say I was ripping a flare off, I said flare 'cap', the part at the rear of the flare that connects the factory running board to the flare... I left mine on. That is where I am rubbing when I stuff- I have not lowered my bump stops.
You might - I would not count on OME medium springs staying seated with 2" of extra droop from the L shocks. I have the shock extension of an L shock on my suspension, and even with a higher spring rate we needed to add a bit of progressive wind length to the spring to keep them seated. You could fab a spring retainer to deal with this, but at some point you're just perfuming the pig.
This is of course why it makes sense to buy a kit designed for your usage rather than trying to conform a suspension designed for overland travel on 33's to be a rock crawling suspension on 35's.
I ran 35x10.5 SSRs, which are about 35.5 inches in diameter, on 4 inch backspaced rims with an OME heavy lift with stock bump stops on the Rubicon heavily loaded. I am pretty sure I cycled the suspension to its fullest and had no rubbing. Maybe the 4 inch backspacing compared to stock 4.5 inch backspacing made a difference. The 35x10.5s look about as wide as a 35r75. My 80 has the flares removed.
David Sword
David Sword
The above green truck is mine. It is OME with 315 Nitto's. There are no bump stop mods. I have twisted it to the stops in several ways. It has never rubbed.
315 tires are not all the exact same height and width. A tire from another manufacturer might rub. Also, I have no flares to damage.
A little bit of rub can be harmless. If the tire is not pressing hard on the metal, is not rubbing on a sharp point and doesn't damage the body, no harm is done.
315 tires are not all the exact same height and width. A tire from another manufacturer might rub. Also, I have no flares to damage.
A little bit of rub can be harmless. If the tire is not pressing hard on the metal, is not rubbing on a sharp point and doesn't damage the body, no harm is done.
Haven't had any come loose yet. Maybe if certain Bilstein shocks are used with the pin to eye conversion mounts.
I forgot about the flare caps and mud flaps. I thought everyone removed them straight away.
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Don't know about the med springs, but I ran heavy springs and L's on the rear without issue. This is a great setup for 35's, the L's need ~1" of bump stop extension to protect them and that's close to what most brands of 35's need, so you end up with ~11" of travel.
I think the questions are:
If you plan on wheeling where there are significant obstacles, again the 285s, as I would want all the flex possible.
If you don't plan on upgrading gears, again the 285s...
If you live in flat land and only plan on some light off highway travel, 315s
- Where do you live?
- What (if any) kind of wheeling do you plan on doing with it?
- Do you plan on keeping stock gears?
If you plan on wheeling where there are significant obstacles, again the 285s, as I would want all the flex possible.
If you don't plan on upgrading gears, again the 285s...
If you live in flat land and only plan on some light off highway travel, 315s
I have the same dilemma. I want to go with a low lift (2.5" is what I was planning on) and 35's. However, I am not afraid of cutting. Where does the tire rub the most and would tubbing the fenders help with the issue? I don't mind cutting and welding and body work but I want to maintain a clean look without affecting interior function or looks. What and where do I have to cut to make this work?
What is considered wheeling?
What is considered a significant obstacle? Possibly something that scrapes the front bumper, then rides the slider, then the rear bumper holds the rear tire of of the ground coming off?
Sorry it's kind of a philosophical question, and can be answered in a number of ways.
I'm getting the impression what Midwest wheeling may be defined as light wheeling as compared to wheeling out west. Of course I've only seen photo's.
Is this where some of the confusion on rubbing when wheeling is coming into play?
What is considered a significant obstacle? Possibly something that scrapes the front bumper, then rides the slider, then the rear bumper holds the rear tire of of the ground coming off?
Sorry it's kind of a philosophical question, and can be answered in a number of ways.
I'm getting the impression what Midwest wheeling may be defined as light wheeling as compared to wheeling out west. Of course I've only seen photo's.
Is this where some of the confusion on rubbing when wheeling is coming into play?
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I guess it's different everywhere, but In the terrain that I wheel in, bigger tires makes wheeling easier. In Arizona we have to deal with rock and the old saying, bigger tires make the rocks smaller applies.
With the L shocks it's easy to use most/all of their 11"+ of travel, so not giving up any flex. If anything gaining flex over most other kits. With the std OME shocks, the upper mount can easily be spaced down allowing for full travel.
Bigger tires reduce road handling, ride, power, are more expensive, etc. For a light off road use, smaller tires will work great run much better on the highway.
Just to clarify where my 36"s rub here are two pics. These are the only places they rub. It will also depend on what tires you run. The Swamper SX's have very significant lugs on the sidewall, it may not be an issue if you're running ATs or a less aggressive MT.
For those that have been around a while you'll notice I haven't finished centering the rear axle, it's on my short list.
For those that have been around a while you'll notice I haven't finished centering the rear axle, it's on my short list.
I should have been more specific. By "significant obstacle", I meant an obstacle that would utilize your 80s full flex (as there is concern about rubbing).
As an STL native, I know there is some nasty stuff in the Mudwest as well, especially when it involves that hellacious clay. My comment regarding the West had more to do with altitude and driving over mountain passes.
Go Blues!
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What "concern about rubbing", if the job is done correctly there should be no concern. When larger tires are installed, the first step should be to flex the suspension and correct any significant contact issues, before hitting the trail.
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Simply outstanding. 
I appreciate the thoughtful imput, thank you. Tomorrow morning I will be bringing Althea in to the shop for the lift (OME 2.5 medium). Tires will follow shortly - leaning towards the BFGoodrich MT - 285/75/16 for the following reasons:
1. Max flex w/ no additional modifications. I'm not the type to mess with mother nature.
2. Wheel mostly in midwest for good fun.
3. Plan on taking mountainous 'overland' trips out West. MT, CO, CA, AK
4. Less expensive...the 315's are close to $270 per tire.
5. Sounds like the 315's are more appropriate for a more technical style of wheeling.
If by chance I have misinterpreted the info, please feel free to respond. Keep in mind, I am trying to find the most appropriate tire for my needs. Peace out.
CUL8TR,
Weston
I appreciate the thoughtful imput, thank you. Tomorrow morning I will be bringing Althea in to the shop for the lift (OME 2.5 medium). Tires will follow shortly - leaning towards the BFGoodrich MT - 285/75/16 for the following reasons:1. Max flex w/ no additional modifications. I'm not the type to mess with mother nature.
2. Wheel mostly in midwest for good fun.
3. Plan on taking mountainous 'overland' trips out West. MT, CO, CA, AK
4. Less expensive...the 315's are close to $270 per tire.
5. Sounds like the 315's are more appropriate for a more technical style of wheeling.
If by chance I have misinterpreted the info, please feel free to respond. Keep in mind, I am trying to find the most appropriate tire for my needs. Peace out.
CUL8TR,
Weston
what about j springs front & 863 rears
My truck has the 2.5 ome and I kind have the same question. here's a link to a 850J front and 863's rear
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/200074-intial-report-cooper-stt-tires-315-75-16-a.html
I am kind of leaning toward this. cooper tires are cheaper too.
My question is if I install the 850J's front, do I need to do anything to front driveshaft?
My truck has the 2.5 ome and I kind have the same question. here's a link to a 850J front and 863's rear
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/200074-intial-report-cooper-stt-tires-315-75-16-a.html
I am kind of leaning toward this. cooper tires are cheaper too.
My question is if I install the 850J's front, do I need to do anything to front driveshaft?
My question is if I install the 850J's front, do I need to do anything to front driveshaft?[/quote]
Depends on whether or not you have any vibration issues after the change.
Depends on whether or not you have any vibration issues after the change.
I have 285 Bridgestone Dueler REVO's with OME heavy 2.5" lift and Slee 1" spacers up front. Perfect stance... it does ride firm; however this 6500lb truck can take corners well with little lean, does great off road, and IMO I made the right choice in lift/tire size. I have MetalTech sliders and a Kaymar rear bumper with tire mounted up high.
The 285 Revo is $177 at TireRack.com Great reviews about it on ih8mud about them. They are quiet, drive great, wear well, and do great off road! Look into them.
I have avoided going to 315's myself thus far due to the need to change gears (4:88's), a tire that weighs 20lbs+ more per corner (slower accelleration, worse handling, longer stops, etc), and IMO unless the truck sees some gnarly off road 285's or 295's should get you thru just the same.
I would invest in some sliders if you plan to off-road with either size tire. My factory steps bent on their 1st outing.
The 285 Revo is $177 at TireRack.com Great reviews about it on ih8mud about them. They are quiet, drive great, wear well, and do great off road! Look into them.
I have avoided going to 315's myself thus far due to the need to change gears (4:88's), a tire that weighs 20lbs+ more per corner (slower accelleration, worse handling, longer stops, etc), and IMO unless the truck sees some gnarly off road 285's or 295's should get you thru just the same.
I would invest in some sliders if you plan to off-road with either size tire. My factory steps bent on their 1st outing.
315's with a 2.5 is a little big. I'd go with the 295's (despite the more limited availibility) to get the best balance of off-road ability with the least compromise in on-road handling.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I'm running that same setup, I have Slee caster plates and a Double Cardan driveshaft, smooth as can be ;p I'm guessing that if you were to use SLee's blue caster bushings, you might not need the DC shaft...might not.
I'm going to move up to a 4" spring and J rear very soon here.
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