Tire Rotation Recommendations (1 Viewer)

[jonharis]

So as many of you know, I'm going through BFG ATs fast! In 2 years (15k miles) that I've run them, I will have had 10 on my truck. I have found that the sidewalls rip very easily.

Luckily, I buy my tires at Sam's Club where they honor the road hazard warantee with no questions asked. Basically in an AWD vehicle they will replace all 4 tires if one is bad and the tread is >2/32 different than new. That's how I got my first "free" set of 4.

I now have 2 new tires that I am getting mounted today or tomorrow. the tread difference was right at 2/32 from new so I only got the 2 but have no complaints.

My question is which Axel do I put the new tires on?

Conventional wisdom is front for front wheel drive and rear for rear/all wheel drive (due to rear bias in most AWD cars). What is the front/rear bias in the land cruiser? Currently I'm planning on having them installed on the rear but wanted other opinions.

 

[jgray]

My thoughts were put them on the rear as well. In a standard 4hi scenario for normal driving in the Hundy isn't slightly more power distributed to the rear wheels like 60% rear 40% to the front? Not sure if thinking of it that way makes the most sense but I think the rear wheels are getting more power during normal street driving or when you are in 4hi...

 

[jonharis]

yeah. I was thinking 60/40 when CDL is open and 50/50 when CDL is Locked? I have not seen anything posted.

 

[Brock]

I have run Nitto Terras and Nitto Trails...and BFG KM2s.

Currently running Nitto Trails...and all have lasted 40K+ miles

I do a 5 tire rotation every 4-5k miles...religiously. It is called Reverse Cross pattern and I make sure either I do it or a local shop that same way every time.

Spare to right rear, right rear to right front, right front to left rear, left rear to left front, left front to spare. The rear cross comes from right front crossing over to left rear.

With this schedule I have gotten at least 30% more miles.

My current Nitto Trail Grapplers on my 100 were put on within a few days of buying her in June 2010 at 132,000 miles on odometer. I currently have 167,000 miles and they have over half of the tread remaining.

I expect them to start wearing quicker the further they go but have 35k on them now and should easily get another 20k out of them. This is for very aggressive mt style tires...not highway tires. I use this as my daily driver...and drive the s*** out of it offroad....in everything from mud to rock to shale to sand.

This ensures even wear over life of tires...if I start getting noise or vibration it is usually if I go just a few hundred miles past my rotation point....or tells me I need to rotate sooner...so I do and they keep going strong.

Give it a try...plus then you dont have to worry about what to do with that one odd brand new tire in spare carrier every time you buy tires....you just dump it with rest at tire shop or sell whole set to friend and put your new shoes on instead...

 

[Pork Soda]

Jon, I have nothing to help with your situation, just another question to add.

I recently purchased a new spare (BFG KO 285/75/16) in preparation for a longish road trip. The other four tires have around 25k miles.
Wondering if I should include the new tire in the rotation?

 

[jonharis]

@ Brock: That s actually the rotation I use! I highly recommend it as well. The unfortunate thing about my example is I destroyed the tires before I got a chance to do the first rotation. I know I'm probably over analyzing this but I'm really mainly interested in the wear characteristics and power distribution of our truck specifically.

@ Pork Soda: Typical recommendations I've come across state that in an AWD situation the tires should be no more than 4/32 of tread less than they were when new. Sam's Club goes above that and recommends 2/32nds and they will flat out refuse to do it on an AWD car with more than 4/32 delta. That's a good business practice. Get your self a tread depth measuring gauge and check against new which is available on the manufacturers website.

 

[Dobie]

So I have a question related to this topic sort of...I just added wheel spacers. The problem now is when installing the wheels onto the spacers the wheels may be off balance. Ive read that people are using three conical lugs, tightening to center the wheel and then using two "regular" LC lugs and tightening the lugs. Once the lugs are tightened then the conical lugs are removed. This idea is probably difficult to explain to a tire shop. Where do you guys jack the truck up to do a simple rotation.

 

[jonharis]

So I have a question related to this topic sort of...I just added wheel spacers. The problem now is when installing the wheels onto the spacers the wheels may be off balance. Ive read that people are using three conical lugs, tightening to center the wheel and then using two "regular" LC lugs and tightening the lugs. Once the lugs are tightened then the conical lugs are removed. This idea is probably difficult to explain to a tire shop. Where do you guys jack the truck up to do a simple rotation.

Unrelated but can I ask what you paid for your KM/2s? I'm looking at the same tire to go on my 16s. Pricing seems a bit rediculus.

 

[Dobie]

I bought them about a year to a year and a half ago and I think I paid about 225-250 a tire but I bout refurbished 16s and had them shipped and mounted already.

I think i am going to try out an AT 18 tire but I still want 35, but in maybe a 295 width. Nitto Terra?

 

[Brock]

sorry did not read your intent and thought it was mostly about tire wear....and that would be my biggest concern...wow! 15k and had to replace them already.

I would question proper inflation pressure...too low could cause heat build up and consequently rapid wearing of tire.

Back to your other question...I always put the new tires on the front in that situation.....as that is where you get most of your braking power and steering.....and they have more force put on tread during turns and such with movement of steering. My two cents.....

I would be more concerned with tires being too far off in diameter on AWD/4WD vehicle.....but need to figure out why you are eating tires. Do you have unusually rough or abrasive roads.....or all those traffic light races you are winning against the FJ55s?

 

[Pork Soda]

Thanks Jon! These are the first set of tires that I haven't bought from Sam's, and I will probably check there on the next set. I miss having that $.79 pretzel while I wait on my rotation.

BTW, my KOs seem like they're going to last forever, but aren't having as much fun as yours are.

 

[2000UZJ]

Unrelated but can I ask what you paid for your KM/2s? I'm looking at the same tire to go on my 16s. Pricing seems a bit rediculus.

KM-2's are overpriced. Although I did not pay full price, at the time my 305's were $315 a piece. That said, if I run over a curb today and blowout all 4. I wouldn't hesitate to put KM-2's back on.

back on topic... if you don't want to loose sleep and not worry about which axle the new tires go on get them shaved. I know it's a waste of tread, but it also gets the proper diameter on all 4. Just my opinion.

 

[jonharis]

I should have clarified in the beginning. I am ripping sidewalls (very sharp rocks around here). They are not wearing fast.

It looks like you guy's got deals on your KM2s.

315/75R16s are $345 at Sam's (before mounting/balancing/RHW which is $16). Out the door I'm looking at $1805! I am searching other vendors but tire rack and discount are coming up about the same.

The Wrangler MT/R is much much less at $1350 out the door. That's a huge savings.

 

[2000UZJ]

Tire rack has them for $310. But shipping, mounting and balancing may cost more long run. Set of four is $1,240

 

[jonharis]

Sam's in definitely the best overall price I can get (out the door) locally considering their road hazard.

 

[arbetrader]

Tires always wear the most on the front axle due to weight bias, steering, and braking weight transfer. Even on an awd like our trucks

 

[jonharis]

In pure RWD situations the rears will wear faster. From experience. AWD it where it's fuzzy for me.

At the risk of turning this into a "what tire" thread. Please don't let it happen, anyone try the Mud Grappler?

Mud Grappler - Discount Tire

I'm getting ready to remove my truck from DD use and have it only as a trail vehicle.

Also thinking about the Trail Grapplers. Unfortunately, I can't find the LT315/75R16 Trail Grappler anywhere locally.

 

[Brock]

no but I can attest for the nitto terra grappler and trail grappler toughness.....had them in colorado on all the big trails outside telluride and ouray with no cuts or chunking......spun them in shale, gravel, large boulders, slid off the side of granite and other material on trail....no cuts or damage at all. They are heavy as hell but tougher than nails....and that is not an understatement.

I almost got the Mud Grapplers but they were TOO AGGRESSIVE for a daily driver....

 

[jgray]

I ordered my BFG KM2's from Tire Rack. They shipped overnight amazingly fast and I got a $50 BFG rebate card in the mail a few weeks later too. Here is my order details:

4 LT315/75R-16 BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 D
Download Warranty Brochure PDF In Stock $250.00 $1,000.00

Shipping: $126.20
Track This Order Order Total Including Shipping: $1,126.20

 

[jonharis]

Tires are going on! $30 out the door.

Went with new on front. 2/32 really is an insignificant amount of tread.

Will do the Reverse Cross if I can make them last long enough.