Tire Pressure Parameters (1 Viewer)

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Aug 1, 2005
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170
Location
Bismarck, ND
I've put new Blizzaks on for the winter (275/60R18's I think - 32.7", nice and narrow for ice traction you warm weather guys), and am running at 35 PSI (suggested by my tire guy).

I can't get the tire pressure monitor to turn off the warning light, even after checking the spare. Is 35 PSI (it can get damn cold here, the other reason for the higher pressure) really out of the parameters for the monitor system?

Does anybody have an FSM that tells the limits?

I have done the reset, if you're wondering.

John
 
I don't know the parameters but tire pressures range up to 80 PSI so there shouldn't be a problem, check your user manual for settings. Perhaps one of the transducers was damaged when the tires were changed?
 
Sno-Tires

Now I'm not completely inexperienced when it comes to snow driving, but it's So Cal snow, so maybe it doesn't count - most I've seen is 12" in a RWD pickup.

I've seen a couple posts, including the opener of this thread, that it's better to have skinny tires.

Now, on the face of it, this doesn't make sense to me - if you're going to be walking in snow, you don't wear track-shoes, you wear snow-shoes - specifically for the purpose of spreading out your weight. The greater surface area, the better weight distribution, the better traction....

This theory I've just layed out seems to follow for Sand/Mud - why not snow?

-LX Pilot
 
Now I'm not completely inexperienced when it comes to snow driving, but it's So Cal snow, so maybe it doesn't count - most I've seen is 12" in a RWD pickup.

I've seen a couple posts, including the opener of this thread, that it's better to have skinny tires.

Now, on the face of it, this doesn't make sense to me - if you're going to be walking in snow, you don't wear track-shoes, you wear snow-shoes - specifically for the purpose of spreading out your weight. The greater surface area, the better weight distribution, the better traction....

This theory I've just layed out seems to follow for Sand/Mud - why not snow?

-LX Pilot

If you're driving on the road, skinny tires have less floatation, so more road contact, more pressure per unit area of footprint. If the snow is fresh and it's cold, the crystals are sharp, so it doesn't matter as much. You can drive much faster in these conditions.
 
I've put new Blizzaks on for the winter (275/60R18's I think - 32.7", nice and narrow for ice traction you warm weather guys), and am running at 35 PSI (suggested by my tire guy).

I can't get the tire pressure monitor to turn off the warning light, even after checking the spare. Is 35 PSI (it can get damn cold here, the other reason for the higher pressure) really out of the parameters for the monitor system?

Does anybody have an FSM that tells the limits?

I have done the reset, if you're wondering.

John

Your within range, could be a damaged sensor.
 
OK, I'll try the dealership.

On the narrow tires, the concept is pounds per square inch for ice. Blizzak tires have a special compound and tread design to maximize this, so the more weight the better. Don't want to be ON the snow, like those Arctic Trucks.

Tirerack has a winter tire FAQ that is very good, goes through lots of the testing.

Thanks - I'll let you know what they say.
 
I've put new Blizzaks on for the winter (275/60R18's I think - 32.7", nice and narrow for ice traction you warm weather guys), and am running at 35 PSI (suggested by my tire guy).

I can't get the tire pressure monitor to turn off the warning light, even after checking the spare. Is 35 PSI (it can get damn cold here, the other reason for the higher pressure) really out of the parameters for the monitor system?

Does anybody have an FSM that tells the limits?

I have done the reset, if you're wondering.

John

I have the same tire and size but they are stock around 31 inch.
The max is 44 lbs and I run 35 in mine.
Sorry I can't help with TPM.
I have it on my BMW and you air up your tires then with key in on position but engine not running push the TPM button and hold it down for 10 seconds and it resets to the new pressure. Make sure you do this in the AM before driving when tires are cold.
 
Now I'm not completely inexperienced when it comes to snow driving, but it's So Cal snow, so maybe it doesn't count - most I've seen is 12" in a RWD pickup.

I've seen a couple posts, including the opener of this thread, that it's better to have skinny tires.

Now, on the face of it, this doesn't make sense to me - if you're going to be walking in snow, you don't wear track-shoes, you wear snow-shoes - specifically for the purpose of spreading out your weight. The greater surface area, the better weight distribution, the better traction....

This theory I've just layed out seems to follow for Sand/Mud - why not snow?

-LX Pilot

This only hold true if you are human and walking on snow. It is better to be on the snow then your foot going down in it every time you step.
With car/trucks its different! You want your treads to down the snow as far as possible to pack it and maybe hit the tar or dirt. This will make for better traction. Same in water, wider tires will hydroplane more than narrow.
 
For the best tire pressure advice ask the Bridgestone Tire Doctor ....

tire_md_eeeeee_small.jpg


http://www.bridgestonetrucktires.com/us_eng/answers/index.asp

For the TPM I have no helpful advice.
 
Turns out one of the transducer pressure "bladders" was damaged when the guys put the new tires on. Apparently it happens with they're not careful with the tire machine.

$110 for the transducer (not in stock). So far $38 to find the damaged one (they must've started with the right one)

I checked on the tires, they're 265/70 R18 = 32.6"

Blizzak DM-Z3. I'm happy with them so far.
 
Turns out one of the transducer pressure "bladders" was damaged when the guys put the new tires on. Apparently it happens with they're not careful with the tire machine.

$110 for the transducer (not in stock). So far $38 to find the damaged one (they must've started with the right one)

I checked on the tires, they're 265/70 R18 = 32.6"

Blizzak DM-Z3. I'm happy with them so far.

Any chance the tire guys will cover the expence since they damaged it?
I also have been impressed with the Blizzak's!:beer:
 
He will, they've covered me before (once a tech forgot to put oil in a Wrangler I had after the oil change - you know what that did)

This is the same place that sheared off the torsion bar adjuster bolt a few months ago when I was dealing with my AHC and bumper/winch weight - I was dead in the water for 5 days that time.

Why do I go back? Local shop that isn't the dealer, less hassle to deal with regularly, and the manager is a really nice guy. Hard to find real competent help sometimes.
 
Perhaps one of the transducers was damaged when the tires were changed?

Turns out one of the transducer pressure "bladders" was damaged when the guys put the new tires on.


From what I read below, having a "really nice guy" as a manager, doesn't equate to any competancy where it really counts, that is, in the workshop!

Do I read this right, are you being charged $38 for them to find their stuff up?

He will, they've covered me before (once a tech forgot to put oil in a Wrangler I had after the oil change - you know what that did)

This is the same place that sheared off the torsion bar adjuster bolt a few months ago when I was dealing with my AHC and bumper/winch weight - I was dead in the water for 5 days that time.

Why do I go back? Local shop that isn't the dealer, less hassle to deal with regularly, and the manager is a really nice guy. Hard to find real competent help sometimes.
 
last winter when i was looking for a ice/snow radial that fit the 18inch rim there was nothing but the dunlop sj5, im very happy with them, i had blizzacks on my 98 with 16 inch rims, those also were amazing, but if i had the choice of the blizzacks, or the dunlop sj5's, id take the blizzacks.
 

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