Tire issues Good Year Duratrac

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So I bought these about a year and a half ago, brand new, I had one side wall separate, ( the tech said puncture WTF ) now I am having another one separating, but being an all wheel drive vehicle, I need a 4 tires very close in size, so the shop said you need to pay for a prorated $148 + $25 installation, and $234 for a second tire and of course another $25 mount and balance this ends up $432, where is the warranty when I need to pay a fat price to mount and balance, I know I will not buy any Goodyear tires again after this BS . I will be calling them monday and asking them to stand behind their crap
If you want to apply pressure(no pun) hit me up Ill make a story on my channel and get a bunch of folks up in arms so to speak. 5 mil views a month dosnt hurt.
 
What tire pressure are you running when the sidewalls fail?

Excessive flexing and pinching the sidewall between the rim and a rock will cause the sidewall to fail, I don't care WHOSE tire it is.

I have 285/75-16 Duratracs on my 96 LC. I wheel very little. I run them at 35 LB for normal driving around. I bump up the pressure to 45 or 50 psi for road trips to reduce rolling resistance as well as improve mileage a bit. I currently have over 35K miles on them and they measure out as still having more than 2/3 tread of new. If that remains true, I should get 100K+ miles off this set of (5) tires.

But if I drop them to 12 PSI and go crawling around on the rocks, I would expect to damage something. A stiff sidewall does NOT like low pressure flexing. These are being referred to as "weak" sidewalls. Are they actually weak or is there more circumstance to how they got punctured? Heat and sidewall flexing are the primary things that cause a tire to delaminate or break down.

I have run a lot of BFG's and they are my second choice. I have run Coopers, they and Hankook are my LEAST favorite.

I happen to prefer GY tires as a whole. That being said, I absolutely HATE the GY Assurance tires on my van. They have a belt slipped in them and it makes that thing wobble. I have a suspicion that the place I bought the tires installed blems.

The BFG's I ran had the white lettering sidewall delaminate to the point I could slide my finger in between the belts and the "whitewall" side flap of the tie. There was a clear seam between the tread and the sidewall. It almost looked as if they had been run flat, and they had NEVER been flat.

The Coopers would never balance out and were ALWAYS vibrating or going flat. Treadwear was horrible.
 
What tire pressure are you running when the sidewalls fail?

Excessive flexing and pinching the sidewall between the rim and a rock will cause the sidewall to fail, I don't care WHOSE tire it is.

I have 285/75-16 Duratracs on my 96 LC. I wheel very little. I run them at 35 LB for normal driving around. I bump up the pressure to 45 or 50 psi for road trips to reduce rolling resistance as well as improve mileage a bit. I currently have over 35K miles on them and they measure out as still having more than 2/3 tread of new. If that remains true, I should get 100K+ miles off this set of (5) tires.

But if I drop them to 12 PSI and go crawling around on the rocks, I would expect to damage something. A stiff sidewall does NOT like low pressure flexing. These are being referred to as "weak" sidewalls. Are they actually weak or is there more circumstance to how they got punctured? Heat and sidewall flexing are the primary things that cause a tire to delaminate or break down.

I have run a lot of BFG's and they are my second choice. I have run Coopers, they and Hankook are my LEAST favorite.

I happen to prefer GY tires as a whole. That being said, I absolutely HATE the GY Assurance tires on my van. They have a belt slipped in them and it makes that thing wobble. I have a suspicion that the place I bought the tires installed blems.

The BFG's I ran had the white lettering sidewall delaminate to the point I could slide my finger in between the belts and the "whitewall" side flap of the tie. There was a clear seam between the tread and the sidewall. It almost looked as if they had been run flat, and they had NEVER been flat.

The Coopers would never balance out and were ALWAYS vibrating or going flat. Treadwear was horrible.


Usually 50-60 PSI
 
If you want to apply pressure(no pun) hit me up Ill make a story on my channel and get a bunch of folks up in arms so to speak. 5 mil views a month dosnt hurt.

There you go - GY ain't going to like when their bigtime image is deflated by a few documented cases of 'I shoulda bought ______ tires instead'.

They gotta pay out the nose for the deal they do with Dale Jr & all those ties they hold to on Nascar. All that is just words if they don't show the goods.

Frankly this thread has me rethinking my Duratrac purchase for the 80, and I was intending on a set for the Tundra once I get fed up with the Toyos (good tire, just way too hard for wet WA road grip).

So 2 sets of Duratracs I could very easily swap for some BFG KO2's without thinking twice. Thats ~$2-2500 worth of rubber.
 
For those that like pictures. I pulled the first 'weed' out of my Goodyear DuraTrac sidewall after the tire shop found the bubbles in their tank and demounted the tire. I had to buy another whole new tire because 'its in the sidewall'. I dismissed the two fibrous protrusions as nothing because they looked like little weeds stuck in the outer layer, but they were blowing bubbles in the water tank.

I pulled the first one that had gone in straighter and punctured 90% of the way through and was leaking even though it hadn't gone through 100%. Then I thought to video pulling the second one that was in at a shallower angle. These were just glorified foxtails, not like I drove over some hardcore cactus or sharp rock or something.

 
There you go - GY ain't going to like when their bigtime image is deflated by a few documented cases of 'I shoulda bought ______ tires instead'.

They gotta pay out the nose for the deal they do with Dale Jr & all those ties they hold to on Nascar. All that is just words if they don't show the goods.

Frankly this thread has me rethinking my Duratrac purchase for the 80, and I was intending on a set for the Tundra once I get fed up with the Toyos (good tire, just way too hard for wet WA road grip).

So 2 sets of Duratracs I could very easily swap for some BFG KO2's without thinking twice. Thats ~$2-2500 worth of rubber.


I am here, to help, I am that guy if there, is a bad thing out there, I'll find it, this includes wimmings hey LINUS I need to come visit and take you for a ride in my beast
 
I had Duratracs on my last vehicle for about 6 years/70,000 kms. In that time i had to get a bead reset once, but i never had a puncture flat, and never had them rebalanced, and they still had tread on them when i sold the vehicle and didn't vibrate.

Right now i would have trouble ever considering anything else, so that's what's on the Cruiser.
 

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