Tips for painting rusty frame with Chassis Saver

[canman]

I want to touch up some rusted (surface rust) areas on the frame on my LX450. In particular I want to use a spot blasting gun to hit only the affected areas. I then plan on using one of the Chassis Saver products (Satin Black). Any feedback on what to do or what not to do would as far as sand/ media spot blasting would be much appreciated. Also any comments on the Chassis Saver product would be great.

 

[gregnash]

Not sure that anyone here has actually used it but MagnetMan is usually pretty good about responding to PMs. If I remember correctly the prep is pretty detailed on their site or just give them a call.

 

[85fjmule]

I've used it with good results. Just follow the directions for prep and make sure you have all the loose scale off. I used a wire wheel and wire brush for prep. Make sure to leave the surface rough so it has something to adhere to. You can thin it with Xylene if I remember correctly. Use rubber gloves and a mask and make sure not to get it on anything you don't want covered. You can use cellophane wrap under the lid to extend the life of the unused material although it will still dry up in a couple months.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I used it on my frame, also. Again, make sure the area you're painting has been roughed up. If not, the Chassis Saver will peel off.

 

[benwah]

If you have the ability to blast the rusted areas and remove rust, I would not waste time with Chassis Saver honestly. Now if you cannot blast, that is a different story. If you're going to blast, use a high solids (80%+) corrosion and chemical resistant epoxy. Apply 2 coats at 4.0-6.0 mils DFT and call it done.

 

[benwah]

4.0-6.0 mils DFT per coat.

 

[canman]

If you have the ability to blast the rusted areas and remove rust, I would not waste time with Chassis Saver honestly. Now if you cannot blast, that is a different story. If you're going to blast, use a high solids (80%+) corrosion and chemical resistant epoxy. Apply 2 coats at 4.0-6.0 mils DFT and call it done.

Thanks for the reply. I'll likely apply some with and without blasting just to see what happens. What are your recommendations for a corrosion and chemical resistant epoxy? The reason I ask, is that my neighbour applied some BASF (If I recall correctly) two part epoxy on his boat trailer after we sand blasted it, and the following year, there were multiple areas that were "leaching" out rust. I'm not sure if he applied any other "treatment" to the frame, but he did paint it the next day.

 

[benwah]

Well if he applied that after sandblasting and it's rusting withing a year or two, that stuff is junk. The only manufacturer I use is Tnemec. They are one of, if not THE most high quality manufacturers in the US. Check out their series 135 Chembuild (Modified Polyamidoamine Epoxy)http://www.tnemec.com/product/view/Series-135-Chembuild . That can go over marginally prepared surfaces (ie. NOT sandblasted, but if it is then ever better.) and old coating that are still adhering to the surface. If any of the old coating peeling or whatever just wire wheel that crap off and apply 2 coats of this over it.

Now if the boat trailer is parked in the sun 24/7, I would apply 1 coat of their Series 73 Endura-Shield on top of that, which is an Aliphatic Acrylic Polyurethane. http://www.tnemec.com/product/view/Series-73-EnduraShield . This will keep the coating from fading, you can choose any color you like. The only reason for this is epoxies will chalk and eventually fade over time if exposed to UV. Now a color like white will last a long time in the sun, their white has a 84% Light Reflective Value, so it only absorbs ~16%. A color like Black only has a LRV of 4% for example.

If the boat (or trailer) is parked in the garage 80-90% of the time, the 2 coats of epoxy will suffice. This s*** won't fade for a while.. For example:

SYSTEM:Two coats Series 135 Chembuild applied to SSPC-SP10/NACE No. 2 Near-White Metal Blast Cleaned steel and cured 14 days at 75°F (24°C).

REQUIREMENT:No rusting, cracking or blistering of film. No more than 1/16" (1.6 mm) rust creepage at scribe after 10,000 hours exposure.

This are the results after a Prohesion test . Prohesion tests are basically a chemical and salt spray. So you'll have salt water spray with something like 5%-10% sodium chloride and ammonium sulfate at around 3%-4%. Now realize this was blasted to an SP10, which is the best for immersion service, but even an SP6 will get you mad results.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!

 

[SWUtah]

I've own a 1995 FZJ80 and 3 100 series. All but this last one I owned in the rust belt. Once a year I would wash the under carrage and take a can of rustoliuem spray any rust areas cover well and do the Same thing the next year. Doing this I never had much rust year to year. Quick easy and kept my rigs looking like a SW rig. My present 2005 has always been a Nevada Hundy so almost no rust. Got just a couple of discolored areas. Going by today for a can of rustoliuem to touch up.

 

[canman]

I've own a 1995 FZJ80 and 3 100 series. All but this last one I owned in the rust belt. Once a year I would wash the under carrage and take a can of rustoliuem spray any rust areas cover well and do the Same thing the next year. Doing this I never had much rust year to year. Quick easy and kept my rigs looking like a SW rig. My present 2005 has always been a Nevada Hundy so almost no rust. Got just a couple of discolored areas. Going by today for a can of rustoliuem to touch up.

I believe it. The problem is we tend to let things go until they are really a problem.
A couple of years back, I spent 20 hrs removing scale and as much rust from both my front and rear axles. I didn't have warm enough weather at the time to apply some Eastwood product I had purchased, and ended up painting them with Tremclad using a brush. They looked very good for a very short time, but by spring they looked almost worst then when I started. I believe the paint would begin to flake off and then it would actually trap water and dirt accelerating the corrosion process.

 

[SWUtah]

I believe it. The problem is we tend to let things go until they are really a problem.
A couple of years back, I spent 20 hrs removing scale and as much rust from both my front and rear axles. I didn't have warm enough weather at the time to apply some Eastwood product I had purchased, and ended up painting them with Tremclad using a brush. They looked very good for a very short time, but by spring they looked almost worst then when I started. I believe the paint would begin to flake off and then it would actually trap water and dirt accelerating the corrosion process.

Just got done using the rustoliuem hammer enamel product. Wash dried painted, only a couple of small rust stains but now the bottom of my rig and all the skid plates look new and no exposed metal

 

[2fpower]

Any update on anyone using chassis saver on a frame? Trying to decide if I use POR15 or Chassis saver.