Timing, TDC, gear alignment 13BT

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

FJBen

FJBen

SILVER Star
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Threads
265
Messages
8,319
Location
Northern Colorado
Alright, coming down the homestretch and I need to confirm that I'm thinking correctly, or that I need to do something different.

I lined up all the gears to their respective number, which is what they say to do in the manual.

timinggears.jpg



That got me to wondering whether I was at TDC or not on the compression stroke. From everything I have found, on TDC the pushrods should be "loose" able to move a little on the #1 cylinder, and NOT #4. If it's loose on #4, then you need to rotate 360 and test again.

My exhaust on #1 I can spin easily, Intake is a little harder to spin. I can't really spin any other of the pushrods which leads me to believe I'm correct. HOWEVER: These rocker arms were just ground, along with CAM and new lifters. All of the valves are too tight as they have never been run in this setup which makes me question if I'm actually on TDC correctly?

So, to test the valves I need obviously turn the crank. Am I OK to turn the crank now that all my gears are lined up correctly? I realize once I turn them, it's 270ish more turns until they line up again. I would like to seal up that front end but I'm waiting to make sure I don't have to pull the cover again. Also, I assume you put the front crank seal in AFTER you heat up the front cover put it on?



IP TIMING: So again, full rebuild. The IP was rebuilt as well. I had scribed marks on them, but honestly I'm not sure if they were right or if it was running correctly before the rebuild. I see the factory align mark on the timing cover, and I believe my marks along with the mark I believe I put on the IP. According to the manual, I believe this to be a factory starting point. I also realize you can rotate it back and forth to advance/retard timing.

Is the spill method the only way to set the timing or am I just getting really confused here?

IPallign.jpg
 
You could take the glow plug out for number one, wind the engine back and a bit and then confirm compression is being felt on number one as you bring the marks back into alignment.

If you are getting compression, you should do your valve clearances again.. they are possibly a bit tight.. its meant to be done hot but its worth just doing it cold and then again once the engine is up to temperature after you've got it running.

The spill method is the correct, and only way, to get the timing bang on.. yes.
 
Last edited:
duncanrm said:
You could take the glow plug out for number one, wind the engine back and a bit and then confirm compression is being felt on number one as you bring the marks back into alignment.

If you are getting compression, you should do your valve clearances again.. they are possibly a bit tight.. its meant to be done hot but its worth just doing it cold and then again once the engine is up to temperature after you've got it running.

The spill method is the correct, and only way, to get the timing bang on.. yes.
Click to expand...

No glow plugs in the 13BT :)

So it sounds like since this engine is on a stand, there really isn't a way to do the timing accurately. Sounds like you line up the gears as I've done, set the valves cold (then again hot) and then you have to time the engine in the bay after you have started it and got it running.

I don't really like that as this is a brand new build and I want to make sure the rings seat, but I"m guessing that sounds like the only way?

I"m sure the valves are definitely tight at the moment. I will get that done then get this thing back in the truck.
 
FJBen said:
So it sounds like since this engine is on a stand, there really isn't a way to do the timing accurately.
Click to expand...

I've timed a 2H on a stand, provided the pump is primed you can spill time it.
 
duncanrm said:
I've timed a 2H on a stand, provided the pump is primed you can spill time it.
Click to expand...

Interesting thought there. It's being rebuilt so I can run a fuel line into a tank. I don't have a short fuel line is the only problem...so I'll need to figure out to build that.

Also, does my theory on since all my gears are lined up at TDC, that I can basically button up the timing cover and not worry about that anymore?
 
FJBen said:
Interesting thought there. It's being rebuilt so I can run a fuel line into a tank. I don't have a short fuel line is the only problem...so I'll need to figure out to build that.

Also, does my theory on since all my gears are lined up at TDC, that I can basically button up the timing cover and not worry about that anymore?
Click to expand...

Yes, time to seal it all up. What you've done is correct.

You dont need to plumb through to the tank, I just hang a plastic soda bottle up above the engine with some clear tube down to to the inlet of the lift pump. You can lightly pressurise the soda bottle with a blower nozzle to aid in priming - first to the bleeder nipple on the fuel filter, then the bleeder screw on the pump.

I'm not entirely familiar with 13BTs (as you've found).. but the technology is pretty much same as the H engines which I am familiar with. You may need to rotate the engine a few times to prime through to the delivery valves - a starter motor installed would be ideal though if your engine stand is up to the task.
 
Hang a fuel container above the engine and syphon it to the pump
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom