Timing gear cover gasket install (1 Viewer)

samatulich

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Jan 3, 2012
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Olympia, WA
I replaced the time gear cover gasket today. It started to bulge when torquing it down to spec. I backed ofon the torque. I used the FIPG on both sides of the gasket. I’m planning on moving forward. Any reason I shouldn’t? Just trying to get it back in the road.
Also, when I installed the crank pulley, to center the timing cover seal, nothing moved. Shoot, I hope the FIPG didn’t keep things from moving more freely.
Just wanting to run this by you guys, first time for me doing this.
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Somerset KY
Some (small amount) deformation of the gasket will occur. A large amount should not. What torque spec were you using? My 2F manual doesn't give a specific value for those bolts but @igotta40 is correct in the the two longer bottom bolts require sealant on the threads. Looks like you're using overland metric hardware. The original bolts were 4T, a much different (lower yield) material than what you are using now. Standard torque for a class 4T 6mmx1 bolt is 3.4 ft-lb or 40.8 inch lbs. Unless you have a very small 1/4" drive torque wrench I would snug the bolts up and then give them just a little nudge after that. Be extremely careful over torqueing stainless bolts, if you snap one you're going to be up a creek. The original hardware was meant to be softer than the block as to prevent block damage in the event of a fastener being over torqued. There was a reason why Japanese engineers made their hardware choices.

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samatulich

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477
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Olympia, WA
I did use thread sealer on the two large(10mm) bolts, torqued them to 17foot/pounds and the smaller(6mm) bolts were torqued to 40inch/pounds. The flange in some areas was not perfectly straight, but I didn’t think I could make it more straight by bending or hammering on it.
 

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