I replaced the time gear cover gasket today. It started to bulge when torquing it down to spec. I backed ofon the torque. I used the FIPG on both sides of the gasket. I’m planning on moving forward. Any reason I shouldn’t? Just trying to get it back in the road.
Also, when I installed the crank pulley, to center the timing cover seal, nothing moved. Shoot, I hope the FIPG didn’t keep things from moving more freely.
Just wanting to run this by you guys, first time for me doing this.
The timing cover is pretty thin sheet metal. Mine had the bolt holes around the flange deformed from when it was put on. I had to carefully flatten the holes back into shape. I think the two larger screws at the bottom need thread sealer, IIRC.
Some (small amount) deformation of the gasket will occur. A large amount should not. What torque spec were you using? My 2F manual doesn't give a specific value for those bolts but @igotta40 is correct in the the two longer bottom bolts require sealant on the threads. Looks like you're using overland metric hardware. The original bolts were 4T, a much different (lower yield) material than what you are using now. Standard torque for a class 4T 6mmx1 bolt is 3.4 ft-lb or 40.8 inch lbs. Unless you have a very small 1/4" drive torque wrench I would snug the bolts up and then give them just a little nudge after that. Be extremely careful over torqueing stainless bolts, if you snap one you're going to be up a creek. The original hardware was meant to be softer than the block as to prevent block damage in the event of a fastener being over torqued. There was a reason why Japanese engineers made their hardware choices.
I did use thread sealer on the two large(10mm) bolts, torqued them to 17foot/pounds and the smaller(6mm) bolts were torqued to 40inch/pounds. The flange in some areas was not perfectly straight, but I didn’t think I could make it more straight by bending or hammering on it.
