timing chain smog bracket question

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Joined
Jan 28, 2006
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Location
Scottsdale Arizona
Howdy,
I am in the middle of my timing chain r/r. It looks like I will have to loosen the motor mount bracket that also is the smog pump bracket is this what most of you have to do? if so how do you support the motor with the oil pan off? or just loosen the motor mount and it will still hold the motor up?
82 22r
 
Hmmmmmm.............

I guess thats my answer:deadhorse:
 
Honestly, I'm sure a lot of us would love to help you but I'm guessing most are like me, don't have a smog pump. What does the FSM say about it?
 
post a pic, bro.
 
new direction

the smog pump bracket attaches to the motor mount........... but another thing has come up. I opened the valve cover and lookie what I found:D:grinpimp::cool::eek::p

I have 165 k on this motor but the tim chain is nice and snug and the teeth are just about perfect I did not suspect a double chain
what do you all think?
100_1643.webp
100_1644.webp
 
Now I need to call engine builder and return it or replace it for the double
 
Would you have to pull the bolts out of the engine block on the engine mount? If so then you need to support the engine somehow, either from overhead or from below. Did you tell Engnbldr that it was an 82 22r? I'm not sure when the double to single change came, but it was 82-83ish... They would/should know that....
 
I already talk to enginebuilder he said no problem
 
It was mid-83 that they changed the timing chain from double to single row, and the guides went plastic. But, the front of the engine stayed the same until late '84 when the block deck height changed. So, an early '84 engine can be converted to double row easily, all you need is an earlier timing chain kit. I did this on my old '84.
 
ok but does it look like I should replace it??? oem is always better right?
 
ok bottle jacked the oilpan and continueing the t-chain job thanks much up next is a front axle reseal job
 
ok but does it look like I should replace it??? oem is always better right?

We can't tell from a picture if the timing chain needs to be replaced. There is a test procedure in the FSM, you lay the chain flat on a bench and pull tension on it, measure the distance across a certain number of links with a dial caliper. If the distance is beyond the spec limit, you replace the chain.

Was there a cork gasket on your pan? Assuming you have the original pan, there should be one. Later pans use FIPG as a gasket.
 
I'm going to pull the pan after I get every thing else done... I'm in there so I'm changing it out
thanks
 
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