Timing Belt Replacement, Pretensioner

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Oct 10, 2006
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Sheridan, WY
I'm changing the timing belt on my 99 100 series. There is a cylinder about 4 inches long and 1 inch in diameter that appears to provide the pressure on the pretensioner bearing for the timing belt. There is a 1/4 inch diameter pin that contacts the pretensioner bearing that looks like it should compress into the cylinder to hold constant pressure on the belt as it wears. Mine is locked up solid.

Anybody run into this before?? Should it compress??:confused:

Plan on buying a new one after I beat on this one for a while if it is supposed to compress...

Thanks,
Brian
 
It sounds like the timing belt tensioner - according to the FSM it is up to 2200 lbs to compress that. Are you following the FSM?
In order to put it back on, it needs to be compressed. Some have had success walking it one thread at a time alternating the 2 bolts - I do not recommend it - I had very bad luck doing that. I would purchase a new one before I walked it up again.
 
2200 lbs?? That seems like a lot. No wonder I couldn't compress it on the bench with brute force!! I put it on by "gently prying on the tensioner bearing housing and got the threads on both bolts started about half way. I had another 3/16 to go before it was ready to torque. Just wanted to get an independend opinion before I fried the new bearings and water pump. I'll stick it in the arbor press and make sure it's not froze up. New ones are $37 from toyotaoempartsDOTcom
 
Put the arbor press to the pretensioner. The key is slow and steady pressure. It is a hydraulically controlled spring pretensioner. Very small orifice for compression. It took about 100# of pressure and 30 seconds for the pin to compress. Then, stuck a small nail through the provided holes to hold it in place. Installed the tensioner in the housing, torqued the 2 bolts, and removed the nail. Thanks for the input!!

And.... no, I don't have the FSM. I am well aware of the rants about doing work without them. However, thanks to sites like this and dedicated people that are willing to help, people with a fair amount of mechanical ability can get through the most common repairs. Hands on experience and learned tricks are sometimes better than the FSM can offer.

Bash me if you must.

And thanks again!!!
 
Put the arbor press to the pretensioner. The key is slow and steady pressure. It is a hydraulically controlled spring pretensioner. Very small orifice for compression. It took about 100# of pressure and 30 seconds for the pin to compress. Then, stuck a small nail through the provided holes to hold it in place. Installed the tensioner in the housing, torqued the 2 bolts, and removed the nail. Thanks for the input!!

And.... no, I don't have the FSM. I am well aware of the rants about doing work without them. However, thanks to sites like this and dedicated people that are willing to help, people with a fair amount of mechanical ability can get through the most common repairs. Hands on experience and learned tricks are sometimes better than the FSM can offer.

Bash me if you must.

And thanks again!!!


No bashing in order! Congrats on doing the work yourself! I will be doing the same (my 90K) within the next 4-6 weeks.
 
Put the arbor press to the pretensioner. The key is slow and steady pressure. It is a hydraulically controlled spring pretensioner. Very small orifice for compression. It took about 100# of pressure and 30 seconds for the pin to compress. Then, stuck a small nail through the provided holes to hold it in place. Installed the tensioner in the housing, torqued the 2 bolts, and removed the nail. Thanks for the input!!

And.... no, I don't have the FSM. I am well aware of the rants about doing work without them. However, thanks to sites like this and dedicated people that are willing to help, people with a fair amount of mechanical ability can get through the most common repairs. Hands on experience and learned tricks are sometimes better than the FSM can offer.

Bash me if you must.

And thanks again!!!

No need to apoligize, when you have skills.
 
Heck I followed the FSM and had problems - you apparantly have more wrenching skills than I.
What I don't like is those that bash us Do-it-yourself'ers - no bashing you for trying and I am willing to help out others any time.

I need someone of your skills to get my bolt out that I broke off trying to walk it up. I am sure I will get it, but I am not home to attempt it right now. I am still stressed out about it.
 
When should the tensioner be replaced? On my Mitsubishi they recommend replacing it every time. Some have compressed and reused with some luck. For the $75 bucks for a new one and a huge piece of mind I thought it was worth it.
What is the FSM guideline on our trucks?
DMX
 
<snip>...to get my bolt out that I broke off trying to walk it up. <snip>

Your bolt broke? That's surprising. A steel bolt that size should easily withstand more than a couple thousand pounds tensile load without breaking, unless it had a defect. or other substantial loads/stresses are present.

I would expect some might strip threads in the Al casting threaded holes, if impatient or unbalanced when walking the pretensioner into position using the bolts, but I would not expect the bolts to break. That doesn't sound like Toyota parts.
 
It could have been any of the above - more than likely it was crossed by yours truly. I can wrench but I have no "touch" when it comes to bolts or ft lbs. My father-in-law always hands me the torque wrench and forces me to use it. This time I was not using it because it was not to the end yet and I did not think I had that much pressure on it. I could actually hold the tensioner against the pulley with just hand pressure almost to the top.
I am just praying that I did not mess up the head where that bolt goes, it was of course on the side without the opening on the top so it will be very difficult to re-thread :doh: If I did, I need real help because it is a part of the block, not just a part I can replace.
 
It could have been any of the above - more than likely it was crossed by yours truly. I can wrench but I have no "touch" when it comes to bolts or ft lbs. My father-in-law always hands me the torque wrench and forces me to use it. This time I was not using it because it was not to the end yet and I did not think I had that much pressure on it. I could actually hold the tensioner against the pulley with just hand pressure almost to the top.
I am just praying that I did not mess up the head where that bolt goes, it was of course on the side without the opening on the top so it will be very difficult to re-thread :doh: If I did, I need real help because it is a part of the block, not just a part I can replace.

This is the reason why I pay someone to do stuff. If the dealer screws something up they fix it. Good luck.
 
This is the reason why I pay someone to do stuff. If the dealer screws something up they fix it. Good luck.


Or cover it up...
 
This is the reason why I pay someone to do stuff. If the dealer screws something up they fix it.

They’ll fix it IF:

1. you find their screw-up (and it better be within a few days of leaving the shop)
2. you can 100% prove it was their mistake or their fault
3. you’ve got the fortitude to go through the ordeal of proofing it
4. you’ve got the time to take the vehicle back and leave it for a day or more while you find another ride or wait for their courtesy van
5. and your lucky enough that they don’t break something else while correcting their mistake so you don’t have to start the whole process over again

I prefer to bet on my own skills and patience to do the job right instead of someone I don’t know who’s primary motivation is trying to beat the flat rate.
 
They’ll fix it IF:

1. you find their screw-up (and it better be within a few days of leaving the shop)
2. you can 100% prove it was their mistake or their fault
3. you’ve got the fortitude to go through the ordeal of proofing it
4. you’ve got the time to take the vehicle back and leave it for a day or more while you find another ride or wait for their courtesy van
5. and your lucky enough that they don’t break something else while correcting their mistake so you don’t have to start the whole process over again

I prefer to bet on my own skills and patience to do the job right instead of someone I don’t know who’s primary motivation is trying to beat the flat rate.

I use the Lexus dealership and my LX is CPO 3 year 100K warranty so since they will do any repair work and everything is covered by warranty I'm not too worried. Plus I get a free loaner vehicle RX350 anytime I have service that takes more then an hour or if i ever need a repair.
 
I use the Lexus dealership and my LX is CPO 3 year 100K warranty so since they will do any repair work and everything is covered by warranty I'm not too worried. Plus I get a free loaner vehicle RX350 anytime I have service that takes more then an hour or if i ever need a repair.

That makes sense. If you have a warranty, might as well use it.
 

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