Every Spring I get under my 100 series and get rid of any rust that it picked up over the winter from the super salt the state is now using. I use rustolieum paint to cover any area that the paint is getting thin or has been chipped. By doing this every spring my 100 looks new on the underside and rust never gets a chance to damage my 100. Just a suggestion that if you plan on keeping yours you might want to do the work on the underside.
Time of the year to cleanup the bottom of the LX
- Thread starter SWUtah
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Funny you should post this, because after 10 years in the rust belt (I am a slow learner), I am just starting to think/address this.
I have been searching mud for the last few months and came across various products and techniques. However, of all of them I am most interested in this product: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
Basically an oil/wax fluid to prevent/stop rust.
Thoughts on this and other products for a previous ignored 10 year old rust belt 100?
I have been searching mud for the last few months and came across various products and techniques. However, of all of them I am most interested in this product: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor
Basically an oil/wax fluid to prevent/stop rust.
Thoughts on this and other products for a previous ignored 10 year old rust belt 100?
- Thread starter
- #3
Looks like a good product go for it. Mine never has more then a couple of places where the paint is chipped or worn thin and rust has started so since I do it every spring it is always a simple job. If mine was worse then I would try that product.
I coat the underside of my truck occasionally with Fluidfilm. I think it's better than paint because you can cover everything with it, including inside the doors and other body panels. Seems to last pretty long and you can get it from any John Deere dealer.
FLUID FILM is an excellent product!!!!!! i've been using this for the last two years...
I bought 8 cans while on spring break vacation in Florida at a John Deere store.
It is indeed good stuff! It's like WD 40... well not really - it's fairly thick, a combination of oily and waxy.
I have sprayed the entire under body and everything rusty up top. It seems to like the rust as I see some bubbling action upon contact. I only used 2 cans, but probably could have used another.
Time will tell over this summer. I plan on re-coating prior to winter and then again in the spring of 2011.
Just found this thread while researching how to protect the 100. I've never lived in a place that gets snow and just found out that I'm moving to South Jersey for work (70" snow/yr!). I have a LC and a 4runner that have never seen snow or even much rain so planning on treating with this stuff prior to moving. Anything else I should look at doing before moving my spotless cars to the rust belt? TIA
Well after using Fluid Film last fall I can tell you it isn't a permanent solution. I think it lasted the better part of the winter but certainly by summer there was no evidence of having sprayed it on.
With that said, I don't think that life expectancy is unreasonable given the type of product it is. However, given I already have a ton of surface rust underneath (and growing), I am now thinking of something more permanent... like POR 15. I just need to find the time to properly apply it.
With that said, I don't think that life expectancy is unreasonable given the type of product it is. However, given I already have a ton of surface rust underneath (and growing), I am now thinking of something more permanent... like POR 15. I just need to find the time to properly apply it.
I just did this last weekend. I used some Rusoleum primer and flat black enamel. Turned out real nice, was more or less for spot treatments from my recent excursions.
I'm doing the same thing to mine. It lived it's first 10 years in PA. Good amount of surface rust.
POR15 seemed like too much of a pain in the ass. So this is what i'm doing.
Sanding off loose surface rust with angle grinder, stainless steel brush and dremel.
Replacing the corroded lift and tailgate bolts. Replacing open cell foam gaskets on liftgate with rubber gaskets.
Using Eastwood inner frame coating inside the frame and lift gate (Going to mask the holes so it doesn't leak out onto of the liftgate).
Using Eastwood aerosol Rust converter on the hard to reach areas.
Using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on all the sanded metal and over the rust converter.
Then finishing up with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint to paint over the rust encapsulator that acts like a primer. The Chassis paint is supposed to have more resin than normal paint, making it 3x less likely to chip or crack.
Final step: keep living in Southern California. Apparently the sea air isn't a big deal unless your car gets wet. Thank god for only a handful of rainy days and covered parking at work.
POR15 seemed like too much of a pain in the ass. So this is what i'm doing.
Sanding off loose surface rust with angle grinder, stainless steel brush and dremel.
Replacing the corroded lift and tailgate bolts. Replacing open cell foam gaskets on liftgate with rubber gaskets.
Using Eastwood inner frame coating inside the frame and lift gate (Going to mask the holes so it doesn't leak out onto of the liftgate).
Using Eastwood aerosol Rust converter on the hard to reach areas.
Using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on all the sanded metal and over the rust converter.
Then finishing up with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black paint to paint over the rust encapsulator that acts like a primer. The Chassis paint is supposed to have more resin than normal paint, making it 3x less likely to chip or crack.
Final step: keep living in Southern California. Apparently the sea air isn't a big deal unless your car gets wet. Thank god for only a handful of rainy days and covered parking at work.
Oh this stuff is kind of expensive though.
Encapsulator is $32 for a quart.
Inner Frame coating is $19.99 for a 16oz aerosol with conic disperser and extension hose that covers like 12sqft.
The chasis black paint was $9.99 for a 160z aerosol.
Rust converter is $19.99 for 16oz aerosol.
But I got the angle grinder new off amazon for 84 cents some how.
Encapsulator is $32 for a quart.
Inner Frame coating is $19.99 for a 16oz aerosol with conic disperser and extension hose that covers like 12sqft.
The chasis black paint was $9.99 for a 160z aerosol.
Rust converter is $19.99 for 16oz aerosol.
But I got the angle grinder new off amazon for 84 cents some how.
Fluid Film runs around $40 a gallon and will do about 3 trucks. It's a once a year application. Just avoid the underbody pressure washes at the car wash. Very little prep. Just hose off any dirt and you are good to go. Apply using a standard cup undercoating gun. Fluid Film stops existing rust on the spot. Soaks through it, seals it off, and loosens it up for easier cleaning.
If you've never tried it, live in the US, and would like to, just PM me for a sample can.
If you've never tried it, live in the US, and would like to, just PM me for a sample can.
