Time for a Front Axle Swap.........Questions ! (1 Viewer)

[trekker9]

I wrecked my 94' on the way to deer camp and bent the front axle housing. A few questions for the experts on here.

1. What all do I have to take off to drop the axle assembly?

2. As I look for a new one, is there a way to distinguish between a locked and non locked axle just from appearance?

3. Will an axle assembly off a "locked" truck work on my non-locked truck?

4. What other items should I check for bending?

I will be able to put up some pics tonight. I took it to a body shop. They replaced the fender before they realized the axle was bent. Being that the tire was pushed in and back, I'm not sure if I will be able to drive it without ripping off the new fender. Unreal.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I took it to a body shop. They replaced the fender before they realized the axle was bent. Being that the tire was pushed in and back, I'm not sure if I will be able to drive it without ripping off the new fender. Unreal.

Wow, not the best shop?! First, what all is bent, arm(s), panhard, sector twisted, etc?

 

[trekker9]

Wow, not the best shop?! First, what all is bent, arm(s), panhard, sector twisted, etc?

The damage was on the passenger side. From a quick look over yesterday, I am pretty sure the control arm is bent. I haven't looked too close at the rest of it yet.

 

[Golgo13]

To get the housing/Assembly off the vehicle, you have to disconnect the 3 suspension arms(32mm and 29mm bolt heads), Steering rods, a brake line(10mm flare wrench) and Breather hose(10mm or 12mm wrench). You will also need to disconnect the front drive shaft (12mm heads). Also, if equipped, you'll have to pull the speed sensors for the ABS. I don't have them and have no idea what size bolts hold them on, but I would guess a 10mm or 12mm head).

But have a good look first and make sure you understand what got damaged. That much load into the front axle could bend the suspension arms, crack the brackets that hold them, etc. Parts from Jason @ Cruiseryard (@arcteryx) will help get you on your way again.

 

[trekker9]

To get the housing/Assembly off the vehicle, you have to disconnect the 3 suspension arms(32mm and 29mm bolt heads), Steering rods, a brake line(10mm flare wrench) and Breather hose(10mm or 12mm wrench). You will also need to disconnect the front drive shaft (12mm heads). Also, if equipped, you'll have to pull the speed sensors for the ABS. I don't have them and have no idea what size bolts hold them on, but I would guess a 10mm or 12mm head).

But have a good look first and make sure you understand what got damaged. That much load into the front axle could bend the suspension arms, crack the brackets that hold them, etc. Parts from Jason @ Cruiseryard (@arcteryx) will help get you on your way again.

Thanks! Do You know if I can put an axle assembly from a locked truck on the front with my unlocked on the rear ?

 

[retrofive]

Thanks! Do You know if I can put an axle assembly from a locked truck on the front with my unlocked on the rear ?

Yes, I did. However I swapped in a locked axle WITH the lockers as that was the goal

 

[Golgo13]

Thanks! Do You know if I can put an axle assembly from a locked truck on the front with my unlocked on the rear ?

Yes, but usually locked axles are sold as a set with all the accouterments to go with it. Unless you are talking just a LSD type or ARB, etc. thats up to you and your needs.

Short answer: yes, and it can be made to work.

 

[trekker9]

Yes, but usually locked axles are sold as a set with all the accouterments to go with it. Unless you are talking just a LSD type or ARB, etc. thats up to you and your needs.

Short answer: yes, and it can be made to work.

Thanks. Can I put it in as is off a locked truck and it will function properly (make the truck drivable) without additional work? Thanks.

 

[LINUS]

Thanks. Can I put it in as is off a locked truck and it will function properly (make the truck drivable) without additional work? Thanks.

No. You need all the other stuff to spin the locker motor.

 

[retrofive]

No. You need all the other stuff to spin the locker motor.

Correct. In my case being a '94 as well (unlocked) I sourced a locked front axle w/ e-lockers, sourced the locker ECU and "magic dial" The rest of the wiring was there for the most part plug and play.

 

[Dirty Koala]

You can put a set of e-locker axles under the truck and drive it immediately without any other work.

If you want to be able to activate the lockers, you will need to add the locker ECU and the locker dial switch. The wiring will already be in the truck. You do not need to have the lockers operational in order to drive the vehicle in an unlocked state.

 

[retrofive]

You can put a set of e-locker axles under the truck and drive it immediately without any other work.

If you want to be able to activate the lockers, you will need to add the locker ECU and the locker dial switch. The wiring will already be in the truck. You do not need to have the lockers operational in order to drive the vehicle in an unlocked state.

Assuming the new housing comes with the locker.

 

[mudgudgeon]

To get the housing/Assembly off the vehicle, you have to disconnect the 3 suspension arms(32mm and 29mm bolt heads),

Don't rush out and and buy these tools sizes if you don't already have them.

I'm fairly sure you need 24mm and 22mm.

I've had suspension apart many times, and I know I don't own a 29mm socket, and the 32mm socket I have is welded in the end of my hilift jack (long story) so, I'd remember using it on radius arm bolts.

 

[SHREDwagon]

,

Thanks. Can I put it in as is off a locked truck and it will function properly (make the truck drivable) without additional work? Thanks.

You can gamble and check Carparts.com for a locked housing and run it without wiring. Or just get an open diff and add an aftermarket locker down the road. As @Tools R Us mentioned, you won't know if bent until you get a straight edge on. Having just rebuilt an OEM actuator, I'd personally be looking hard at a Harrop as nothing is exposed to the elements. Overpriced Expensive compared to OEM though.

You will need jack stands located under the frame (with tires underneath as back-up) and a descent jack. I like to use the cheap wheel dollies from Harbor Freight to roll the housing from underneath and then disassemble. Well, that's the easy part. Then you're faced with "while i'm in there" and full rebuild of knuckles, bushings and brakes while everything is apart. Paint? etc! If you have OCD - take some meds otherwise this will take a while.

There are some little tricks to getting the control arm bolts out by jacking up or down to relieve pressure on the bolt and then smacking with 3lb hammer and punch or drift. Add a 1/2" breaker bar to your list as well. All the larger bolts are 22mm and 24mm. Soak nuts with penetrating fluid and then heat with MAP gas if you live in the snow belt. Repeat x2. The bolt heads and some nuts have indents to prevent spinning. So rule of thumb is to only loosen from the side of bolt that has a washer.

Good luck and remember to go slow and be safe. s*** falls, usually in your eye.

 

[LINUS]

Don't rush out and and buy these tools sizes if you don't already have them.

I'm fairly sure you need 24mm and 22mm.

Same, I have the bigger sockets but 22/24 sounds right where 32 esp seems too big. I may eat my words, but I'm pretty sure too.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Add a 1/2" breaker bar to your list as well.

Yep. You'd be well served with a 2' bar for the radius arm bolts, they'll be F-off tight.

 

[wardharris]

...... Having just rebuilt an OEM actuator, I'd personally be looking hard at a Harrop as nothing is exposed to the elements. Overpriced compared to OEM though.

Definitely not cheap compared to used OEM, air locker, etc. but we do what we can to make them available in US. Our current price includes install kit (carrier bearings/gasket).

We do like 'em.

 

[Dirty Koala]

i have just put a pair of harrops in to replace my ARB's...quality units!!!

 

[wardharris]

i have just put a pair of harrops in to replace my ARB's...quality units!!!

Makes me so happy I could cry....

 

[Tools R Us]

The damage was on the passenger side. From a quick look over yesterday, I am pretty sure the control arm is bent. I haven't looked too close at the rest of it yet.

It's pretty easy to bend the arm, (kind of a good thing, easy to change) this will make a big difference in axle position. Takes a much larger hit to bend the axle, may not be bent? The first step is to determine what is bent and what is good. I wouldn't trust the shop, they missed the bent arm before doing work, so pretty good evidence that they don't know what they are doing on an '80.