Tight Center Bore Fit with 2014+ 18” Tundra TRD Rims

[harrydunn]

I’m assuming others have noticed the tight front axle center bore fit with running these rims (maybe all Tundra rims that we run on our LC’s)? I’ve got the same rims on my 2016 Tundra so have a great comparison. On the Tundra, they literally fall off the axle hub when I loosen the last lug. On the Land Cruiser, I have to beat the rim off the axle hub with a rubber mallet on the inside of the tire. Axle hubs are clean of grime as are the wheel bores.

Just curious. I believe both the Tundra and Land Cruiser are hub centric but have found conflicting posts. I’ve got a tiny steering wheel vibration that persists after road force balancing and I thought it was a good time to ask this question. I do the standard and proper lug nut tightening procedure I’ve done for 28 years. I’m aware both the Tundra and Land Cruiser are 5x150 but the hub diameters are obviously a millimeter or 2 different. Just want to make sure I can properly run these rims. Thanks and Happy New Year.

 

[NB100LC]

So question... Are the tundra rims on your hundy in factory perfect condition, or have they been re-conditioned by a wheel re-seller?

I know from first hand experience. The wheels on my rig are standard 2001 issue 16" LC wheel, but they were re-conditioned. The additional power coating in the hub center area caused the exact same problem as you have had, and I had to do the exact same thing to get them off of the car the first 5 or 6 times...

 

[harrydunn]

Off of a 2018 Tundra in October. Brand new. Maybe some fine sandpaper would do the trick.

 

[bwell]

In my personal experiences with the 100 series platform, I personally feel they are hypersensitive to front end issues if one minor thing is off with a ball joint, bushing, or bearing tension. I have a stretch of crappy rural hwy I have to take to work every day that causes slight feedback one direction but not the other and sometimes I have to go out of my way on a different route just to keep my insanity in check because of the issue you describe. Just my experience, its bugged me a bit over the years if you can't tell!

Btw, those are my favorite wheels for the 100, been waiting to find the right deal on a set.

 

[NB100LC]

Off of a 2018 Tundra in October. Brand new. Maybe some fine sandpaper would do the trick.

Ok, maybe the tundras are less hub centric than we think?

My experience = original 2001 wheels where chromed and chrome was failing. I sourced 4 stock alloys, and couldn't get any that matched, so i sent them out along with my factory spare (unchromed) and had them all redone in the factory silver fade. Damn they were tight and a PITA to remove from the front the first few times. (removed several times doing various suspension/driveline baselines and upgrades)

Info - this was a costly mistake for me, I should have just repainted in the garage. Powder coat is showing signs of failure an the hub center and i believe it will probably continue peeling like a cancer over time. On the bright side, it can be removed with paint stripper...

3 of my original chromed wheels are still on top of the firewood rack. I leave them out there because the bond between the chrome plate and original aluminum continues to break down. Every year I peel a little chrome off. Eventually i'll have a good set of paintable wheels...

4th of the original wheels is sent to aluminum recycler. After I bought the LC I discovered that at some point there must have been either a ball joint failure or someting similar, one of the wheels was deformed/circumcised at its interior as to me was a grenade about to go off.

If only there were a 16" steel option. That's what I really want...

 

[harrydunn]

I agree with the road feedback statement 100%

In my personal experiences with the 100 series platform, I personally feel they are hypersensitive to front end issues if one minor thing is off with a ball joint, bushing, or bearing tension. I have a stretch of crappy rural hwy I have to take to work every day that causes slight feedback one direction but not the other and sometimes I have to go out of my way on a different route just to keep my insanity in check because of the issue you describe. Just my experience, its bugged me a bit over the years if you can't tell!

Btw, those are my favorite wheels for the 100, been waiting to find the right deal on a set.

 

[harrydunn]

I found my first set a couple of years ago brand new from dealer for $300 which I sold and then this year i found these brand new with tires for $700. Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace.

 

[hankinid]

iirc, wheels should fit a hub diameter of 110mm. I find my tundra take-off's with winter tires to be a bit tighter than the oem aluminum wheels.

 

[harrydunn]

Good to know.

iirc, wheels should fit a hub diameter of 110mm. I find my tundra take-off's with winter tires to be a bit tighter than the oem aluminum wheels.

 

[BigSh00ts]

In my personal experiences with the 100 series platform, I personally feel they are hypersensitive to front end issues if one minor thing is off with a ball joint, bushing, or bearing tension. I have a stretch of crappy rural hwy I have to take to work every day that causes slight feedback one direction but not the other and sometimes I have to go out of my way on a different route just to keep my insanity in check because of the issue you describe. Just my experience, its bugged me a bit over the years if you can't tell!

Btw, those are my favorite wheels for the 100, been waiting to find the right deal on a set.

There’s a set on south Florida Craig’s list marked at $600 which I’m sure can be haggled. Wish I had the cash.