What are the dangers of tightening tie rod ends almost all the way? This is for a cruiser that spends most of it's time on city streets and freeways.
Tie Rod question
- Thread starter swimfan
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What's "almost all the way?" Mine are backed off 1/2 turn. Others on here are similar +/-. The 80 series TRE's don't have the spring and adjuster, and they drive great. Maybe the coils have something to do with that. Some guys put 80 TRE's on 60's. My non-engineer opinion is that the 60 series TRE's are a shock absorbing mechanisim, designed to reduce stress on the truck and the driver when used on rough roads for many hours.
I wouldn't crank them down all the way, as I'd be afraid they would loose their flex/movement, and maybe the ball-end would wear too quickly.
I wouldn't crank them down all the way, as I'd be afraid they would loose their flex/movement, and maybe the ball-end would wear too quickly.
- Thread starter
- #3
i pulled my tires off today and tightened up the tie rod ends. i'm tired of battling the truck on the highway. there are times when it's even a bit scary how much the truck will move itself across the lane with my hands holding the steering wheel firmly. they aren't 100% tight, but i turned them about as tight as they'd go and then back a tad so the cotter pins would go in. i haven't actually driven it yet, but the steering wheel had a noticeable improvement with a smaller "dead" zone in the middle. my other landcruiser runs on the same size tires (33x12.5) with a lift and it is dramatically "tighter" when it comes to steering.
Have you adjusted the free play in the steering box?
You're adjusting the relay rod ends, right? The tie rod ends don't have any adjustment. But are all the steering linkage parts in good working condition. Check each one for excessive free play.
align your front end and replace the worn parts as needed.
With torn boots, they won't hold any grease, and will eventually rust up and be hard to move. Or worse, they'll rust up and break when you jerk the wheel hard. I've seen one break on a Dodge Ram. Not pretty.
You probably need a different backspacing on your wheels if they're rubbing on the boots.
You probably need a different backspacing on your wheels if they're rubbing on the boots.
Since we're on the subject of Tie Rods - My FJ62 needs an alignment, but I am planning on replacing all the Tie Rod and Drag Link ends prior to doing an alignment. I hope to be able to pick up one of the Tie Rod kits from either Cruiser Outfitters of Man-A-Fre. The Cruiser Outfitters kit is a little cheaper, but Man-A-Fre says that theirs is OEM Japanese parts. . . any recommendations there?
Tie Rod End Kits
Cruiser Outfitters
Tie Rod End Kits
Cruiser Outfitters
jvazquez53
El Tractor
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I have no idea what I did, but I replaced the TRE's on my 60; got them tight,back the big screw about 1/2 turn. So far, drives good, almost no play.
You talk about adjusting the free-play. I could definetely use this info. Could you explain!!!! Much appreciated!!!
ntsqd
technerd
IF (note the capitalization) there is enough stud length then you can use the wheels that you have and put a 3/16"-1/4" thick spacer in between the wheel and the hub. That will move the wheel out just enough to clear the TRE boots. Highly recommend that steel or aluminum stock be used to make some instead of buying the cheap-azz die cast spacers.
ntsqd
technerd
1/32" won't clear it. The wheel and wheel hub can flex that much. Those on my '84 Xcab don't touch by about that much, yet there is still a line wiped clean all the way around the wheel.
It is an important fix, something that I need to do too. for now I keep pumping grease into the TRE's.
It is an important fix, something that I need to do too. for now I keep pumping grease into the TRE's.
