Ticking sound.

[LX470Mack]

Hi Mudders,

Just want some opinions on a ticking noise from my engine. I drove up the mountain behind my house today for fun and when I got to the top I heard a slight ticking, even through the cabin. The temperature had dropped to about 8 degrees celsius.

At first I though maybe the water pump is crapping out. Then I thought maybe it is a manifold leak. I haven't heard it before and it was still there when I put the truck away in the garage but much quiter, maybe due to temperature?

Truck is a mid 04 with very low miles. 80k.

 

[2001LC]

Ticking sound is most common exhaust manifold (EM) leak. As engine warms it will quiet down a bit or go away. Put your ear near/in the PS fender above the tire, then go to DS and do the same. Generally it will just be on one side. When sound goes away 90 seconds after warm-up it fine just to let it be. When sound is present all the time, replace the EM.

I've used compress air into tail pipe. Then spray soap water on weld where EM pipe is welded to head mounting plate or any suspected leak.

 

[LX470Mack]

Unfortunately hearing it on both sides. Looks like i'm up for some more $.

I've dumped 8k into this truck since April and i'm at whits end. Only 80k miles with full Lexus books and never been off road. It has required new a/c evaporator core and servo motors, rocker cover gaskets, caliper rebuild, ignition coils, ahc removed etc....

 

[2001LC]

I just pointed to most common "tick". So first confirm where leak/sound is coming from.

The cost for me to replace one manifold is ~#250 to $375 in parts, depending on what I find on high mileage like. I just saw one post that guy paid something like $2,800 for both side done. That's a rip off in my book, dealer under warranty does for ~$1,600. It is a labor PITA but don't get burned by high price shops. Find a local specialist on 100 series, that will work with you.

Sorry to hear you've a money pit. For 80k miles other stuff should not be happening, but this one issue is common. Did you verify mileage?

I'll step up on my soap box for a minute: Mileage is less important than condition. Inspect, inspect inspect.

 

[LX470Mack]

I just pointed to most common "tick". So first confirm where leak/sound is coming from.

The cost for me to replace one manifold is ~#250 to $375 in parts, depending on what I find on high mileage like. I just saw one post that guy paid something like $2,800 for both side done. That's a rip off in my book, dealer under warranty does for ~$1,600. It is a labor PITA but don't get burned by high price shops. Find a local specialist on 100 series, that will work with you.

Sorry to hear you've a money pit. For 80k miles other stuff should not be happening, but this one issue is common. Did you verify mileage?

I'll step up on my soap box for a minute: Mileage is less important than condition. Inspect, inspect inspect.

Yeah, I went through it with a fine tooth comb. Everything about it is brand new and yet issues keep happening. I Guess it is just age and luck. It spent it's life garaged and and visited Lexus at 9 month intervals from day 1. I will look into a specialist. Fortunately being in Australia their are plenty of Cruiser mechs about.

 

[Dwight S]

Unfortunately hearing it on both sides. Looks like i'm up for some more $.

I've dumped 8k into this truck since April and i'm at whits end. Only 80k miles with full Lexus books and never been off road. It has required new a/c evaporator core and servo motors, rocker cover gaskets, caliper rebuild, ignition coils, ahc removed etc....

Yes... But isn't it fun to drive? You've had a run of some bad luck and you've made some upgrades & changes. It is a used car and with used cars, some maintenance is usually required. In the end, you've got a low mileage truck, repair /modify/upgrade what is needed and keep going. Mine has 260,000 and I've spent $4000 in the last 12 months doing a couple of previous owner screw-ups and a new timing belt. And the way I look at it, it's mine, it's payed for and there isn't another truck out there that I'd rather have.

 

[LX470Mack]

Yes... But isn't it fun to drive? You've had a run of some bad luck and you've made some upgrades & changes. It is a used car and with used cars, some maintenance is usually required. In the end, you've got a low mileage truck, repair /modify/upgrade what is needed and keep going. Mine has 260,000 and I've spent $4000 in the last 12 months doing a couple of previous owner screw-ups and a new timing belt. And the way I look at it, it's mine, it's payed for and there isn't another truck out there that I'd rather have.

Thanks for cheering me up mate. I do love it. More than any other vehicle. I wanted one since I picked up the first example in Australia in 98 with my father for a family friend. I'll soldier on.

 

[2001LC]

Is this a 100 series?

 

[bamabrock]

Is isn't something I bothered to fix on my last 100. Some people take them off and have the weld the crack, but it sounds like you arent doing the repairs yourself and that would be cost prohibitive due to labor costs.

 

[ItGoesTo11]

My 1999 LX470 engine ticks slightly at idle. In listening closely it sounds like it's the normal valve train noise on a well taken care of 160k mile engine.

It's noticeable enough at idle, but not intrusive, so if that's what you are hearing I would not worry about it too much, mine has been doing that for many years now and I'm the original owner.

 

[2001LC]

Is isn't something I bothered to fix on my last 100. Some people take them off and have the weld the crack, but it sounds like you arent doing the repairs yourself and that would be cost prohibitive due to labor costs.

I'm searching for a thread, that dealt with welding exhaust. It talked about heat to tempering the metal. That if not done metal weld will separate again. Also had a picture of crack from inside. Have you seen it, if so can you link me to it?

I came away thing this "tempering" could explain why some crack and others do not. By running in high RPM for extend period of time, say ten minutes at 4,800 PRM. One would heat exhaust to very high temperature.

Where a engine that just used to drive the kids to school, which may have low miles, one might run into a few more issue. Issue like plugs fouling cause coils (COP) to overheat and fail, o2's & CATs fouling.

 

[bamabrock]

I'm searching for a thread, that dealt with welding exhaust. It talked about heat to tempering the metal. That if not done metal weld will separate again. Also had a picture of crack from inside. Have you seen it, if so can you link me to it?

I came away thing this "tempering" could explain why some crack and others do not. By running in high RPM for extend period of time, say ten minutes at 4,800 PRM. One would heat exhaust to very high temperature.

Where a engine that just used to drive the kids to school, which may have low miles, one might run into a few more issue. Issue like plugs fouling cause coils (COP) to overheat and fail, o2's & CATs fouling.

Ticking noise in 2000 Cruiser
Advice please!

 

[2001LC]

Ticking noise in 2000 Cruiser
Advice please!

Thanks for the links, but not what I'm looking for. It had a picture of inside manifold showing crack. From that a or link too/with post in thread about weld and heating to "temper" which is my word. I don't recall what was the term used (word) for heating the metal so welded parts would contract & expand together.

 

[bamabrock]

Thanks for the links, but not what I'm looking for. It had a picture of inside manifold showing crack. From that a or link too/with post in thread about weld and heating to "temper" which is my word. I don't recall what was the term used (word) for heating the metal so welded parts would contract & expand together.

I've seen the pics, but didnt find them again. Take it to certified welder who is familiar with the metals. Dont buy a harbor freight welder and try it yourself.

 

[2001LC]

I've seen the pics, but didnt find them again. Take it to certified welder who is familiar with the metals. Dont buy a harbor freight welder and try it yourself.

I agree, if going to weld rather than just replacing with new.

I was probing for different reason. I've now found one Dealer replaced manifold that customer paid for, that crack has reoccurred. This has not been seen before by me nor Slee Off Road or noted in mud that I know. After reading that welding post, I started considering the possibility that hard drive heating the exhaust early on may be a benefit. To see crack reappear may indicate engine has always been driven by grandma (gently), not all bad.

These days after Sea foam and 44K I run hard (4,800 RPM for 5 minutes then repeat) for testing and cleaning. Heating spark plugs, cylinder heads, piston tops, exhaust manifold, CATs & o2's like turning oven to clean, cooks off the crud. It may also reduce risk of crack!