Advice please!

[Jim_Chow]

Perhaps something like an FJ Cruiser but bigger?

I think Rule303 and I are thinking more along the lines of an HZJ78 or HZJ105, the stripped Third World ones w/ anemic 1HZ diesel engine, live front axle, ff/fr diff locks, vinyl floor mats, part-time 4wd w/ manual locking front hubs, 5spd manual tranny, AM/FM cassette, manual fan controls, full-floater rear axle, factory subtank, altitude compensator, and factory snorkel w/ dust filter on top, white paint, solid rim steel wheels, and for $30K ish. An "upgraded" version would have cloth seats, floor mats, 5-spoke steel wheels, and A/C. The old mid 80's Toyota mini pickups and 60 series were the closest we've had to these. Vehicles like these are what make the Toyota name legendary around the world.

 

[DMX84]

You can try some Devcon (http://www.devcon.com/) to repair the cracked manifold. I tried searching on the site, but there search function SUCKS big time. I’ve seen a product that is used to repair boilers while running. I’m sure they have a product that will handle the high temp and bond to cast iron. This is what I’ll try when the time arises.

 

[rule303]

Well we all complain about little things like broken cars but at least we aren't dog paddling in New Orleans right now.

 

[100 TD]

Getting back to the cracked manifold, I expect you would be able to weld it up, you usually have to preheat before welding cast IIRC, the rods are made by various companies, Eutectic, BOC

BOC Smootharc C Cast NiFe is designed to produce a higher matching strength weld metal for joining malleable, nodular and S.G. irons. It is also suitable for joining these to mild, low alloy and stainless steels. Smootharc C Cast NiFe is less sensitive to hot cracking sometimes caused by impurities in castings, compared to pure nickel type electrodes. Spheroidal graphite, nodular and ductile cast irons, eg machine bases, transmission housings, gearboxes, engine blocks and pump bodies.

Castcraft 100
* Maintenance welding of cast irons
* Soft, ductile and machineable nickel deposit
* Easy starting and stable running on portable 240V welding machines
* Smoother weld deposit surface finish
* Applications include the repair and reclamation of engine blocks, cylinder heads, differential housings, gear boxes, pump and machine housings and cast iron pulleys etc.

EutecTrode Xuper 2240

Applications
Low-heat-input manual electrode for the "in-situ" repair and maintenance of cast iron and for joining cast iron with steels or copper alloys. Applications include pump bodies, compressors, machine frames, casting defects, lathes, pulleys, dies, levers, gears, generators, flanges, tables and engine blocks.
EDIT: These are just a couple of the rods available, many more from the mentioned and other companies.

 

[Cattledog]

I think Rule303 and I are thinking more along the lines of an HZJ78 or HZJ105, the stripped Third World ones w/ anemic 1HZ diesel engine, live front axle, ff/fr diff locks, vinyl floor mats, part-time 4wd w/ manual locking front hubs, 5spd manual tranny, AM/FM cassette, manual fan controls, full-floater rear axle, factory subtank, altitude compensator, and factory snorkel w/ dust filter on top, white paint, solid rim steel wheels, and for $30K ish. An "upgraded" version would have cloth seats, floor mats, 5-spoke steel wheels, and A/C. The old mid 80's Toyota mini pickups and 60 series were the closest we've had to these. Vehicles like these are what make the Toyota name legendary around the world.

Man, that is exactly what I want a stripped version, minus the rusting issues of the older toyotas.

 

[dacrazy88]

follow-up on throttle body motor...

Did anyone ever figure out if the Throttle Body motor from the above issue ( 'P1126' --> Magnetic clutch ) was a part we could replace without replacing the entire TB unit?

The only place i could find was cruiserparts.net. http://http://www.cruiserparts.net/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_75&products_id=1037
seems like like a lot of $$$ for a used part.

I'm still in the middle of dismantling the unit on my 99 LC, and just wanted to make sure i have the right part before buying it. Haven't seen what the motor actually looks like yet.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Bo

 

[dacrazy88]

The dealer has the throttle body motor for $323. Any other suggestions?

 

[NMuzj100]

PM Cruiser Dan to see what the real price is.

There is always the option of taking it apart, looking it over a few times, cleaning it a bit and putting it back together. Sometimes that works.

First step in troubleshooting the magnetic clutch involves an oscilloscope.

Second is to measure resistance between terminals 3 and 4 on the throttle control motor. Should be 4.2~5.2 ohms.

Third is to look for an open or short in the wiring.

 

[dacrazy88]

Cool. I've have removed the motor. Ohm test on pins 3 and 4 shows open with no resistance. Gear free spins, so it looks like the clutch mechanism is stuck or broken in the open position. I'll probably just have to buy a new one and rebuild the solenoid on this one later if time allows (added to projects list which will actually never get done

Dan said to call him on his toll free number, but i don't see it listed on his vendor profile. Who's got his number.

Thanks

 

[dacrazy88]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but I forgot to explain a little background on my problem...
I have a '99 100 Series Landcruiser. Runs fine with foot on the gas to hold air intake valve open, but will not hold idle without stalling. The Throttle body motor has a humming sound that i can hear while the engine is off and ignition on. Eventually threw 'P1126' --> Magnetic clutch code. With as many problems that I have seen on this forum with this motor and the TPS, i figured I will replace both now to get it over with. Hoping to convert this rig over to trail down the road. Got to work out the bugs though.

 

[NMuzj100]

Usually the TPS problems are actually the APPS. If you are doing both then consider a whole new throttle body. You'll get the throttle control motor, TPS and APPS along with whatever other updates were made.

 

[1loudLX]

i know people on here that have whole new throttle bodies as spares "just incase"

 

[Rahul]

Have had the "p1126" show up. Did some research on the net and found a troubleshooting pdf which I think would be useful.
Could anyone tell me what would the labor cost be, if the the throttle control motor with the magnetic clutch have to be replaced and what would the part cost?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...DMQX-N14Ho9p_agQw&sig2=8u_bP3aK-kk3YXEymz7wKQ

 

[Rahul]

Did anyone ever figure out if the Throttle Body motor from the above issue ( 'P1126' --> Magnetic clutch ) was a part we could replace without replacing the entire TB unit?

The only place i could find was cruiserparts.net. http://http://www.cruiserparts.net/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_75&products_id=1037
seems like like a lot of $$$ for a used part.

I'm still in the middle of dismantling the unit on my 99 LC, and just wanted to make sure i have the right part before buying it. Haven't seen what the motor actually looks like yet.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Bo

Have had "P1126" code pop up. Could you please share your experience/details about how to go about with the fix and how much did it cost you ?
Thanks,
Rahul