THUMP!

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Interesting that you found the issue. I'd have sworn it sounded like a bushing issue somewhere on the suspension.
 
Well I'll be a monkey's uncle. All I did was jack up the front to check wheel/trunnion bearing play, they were good. Greased u-joints, which I do about every ~7K miles and the thump is gone. Ujoints have ~20K miles on them, Toyota brand. Can't believe they were that dry that fast. I can still make it do it at juuuuuuuuust the right RPM's but if you know what you're doing you can pretty much get any vehicle to do it at just the right time.

If you are going through U-joint grease that fast I would tend to think your driveline/s are out of phase some
 
If you are going through U-joint grease that fast I would tend to think your driveline/s are out of phase some
Could you explain further? I never felt the 'need' to grease the joints, I just do it. They've never been dry, as in old grease is always pushed out when I grease them. I have zero vibes.
 
Could you explain further? I never felt the 'need' to grease the joints, I just do it. They've never been dry, as in old grease is always pushed out when I grease them. I have zero vibes.


 
I watched the video. I'd seen it before, but I watched it again. Still not sure what makes you say it's out of phase (I already knew what that phrase meant but I thought you would shed some light on the grease aspect). I've never had any driveline vibes, before or after replacing the ujoints. I marked them shafts before removing them 20K ago and put them back the same.
 
Just realized the thump that happens taking off from a dead stop goes away when it rains ie. when undercarriage is wet, but the higher speed thump is still there. Is that a tell-tale sign it's control arm bushings?
 
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Just realized the thump that happens taking off from a dead stop goes away when it rains ie. when undercarriage is wet, but the higher speed thump is still there. Is that a tell-tale sign it's control arm bushings?

You have an unhappy bushing(s). If it's the rear lower arm bushings, this can come to light by accelerating and then decelerating to re-create the klonk. When this happens, you *may* experience the rear end moving around or an unwanted lane change.

Although this takes work, you may want to do this to isolate which bushing is worn. Remove one end of the link of your choice while leaving the other one still connected. Take a long piece of round bar, approx 16", insert it into the bushing hole and try to twist/torque it. A bad bushing will open up nicely, revealing torn rubber material. Or, just replace the bushings due to age and be done with it. :rolleyes:

The engine and transmission bushings can be checked by power braking the engine in either 4hi or 4lo. using another person. The engine does move under torque to a certain amount but if it moves too much, your fan blade may contact the fan shroud under severe load.

Another trick I've used is to climb a sidewalk curb dead on (perpendicular) in 4hi. Don't ram into it but cozy up to it with the tires then give it a lot of gas while someone else is watching the 80. You may see movement where there shouldn't be.
 
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