Throttle Body Install Troubles (2 Viewers)

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Mar 18, 2018
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Denver, CO
Hi Everyone,

Ended up dropping my truck off for oil change, tire balance/rotation as I am driving from Denver to PC over the weekend with the family in a full car.

I had been sitting on my throttle body package, and decided to have the shop perform that repair/replacement as well (as the labor on it shouldn't be bad).

Well, my very reputable Toyota shop here in Denver can't get it to work. No throttle response after putting in the new one. This shop is pretty well known for working on 100 Series Land Cruisers, daily has 3-5 sitting on property/in mechanic stalls (Urban Autocare on Evans - South Denver).

Anything to be aware of?
 
When I did mine, I took off the batter wire at the battery post, then remove and replace the throttle body and then reconnected the battery: Allowed the engine to idle to do the "relearn" process and that's it.

What did they do after the install? Did they let it idle? Did they play with the butterfly while the ignition on engine off?
 
When I did mine, I took off the batter wire at the battery post, then remove and replace the throttle body and then reconnected the battery: Allowed the engine to idle to do the "relearn" process and that's it.

What did they do after the install? Did they let it idle? Did they play with the butterfly while the ignition on engine off?

They are stating that the OEM Throttle Body I purchased from Toyota Stevenson has an issue with it, which is of course a wild claim. I am not sure what they did or haven't done.

They have since ordered another OEM Throttle Body and slapped on the original one that allowed them to move the truck out of the mechanics bay while they wait for the "new" throttle body. I'll try to return the OEM Throttle Body I purchased from Toyota Stevenson if they get this second one to work without a fuss. Very surprising though.
 
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For the past 30 years of working with OEM toyota parts, I never found any issues unless the box came damaged indicating abuse.
 
For the past 30 years of working with OEM toyota parts, I never found any issues unless the box came damaged indicating abuse.

I haven't been doing it that long - but I was extremely caught off guard by it as well. I think I have actually lost trust in the shop at this stage.
 
They ordered another one, also didn't work - cited the same issue.

So - time to go elsewhere! Of course physically they have the TB hooked up correctly, but keep getting a P1XXX code and no throttle response.
 
They ordered another one, also didn't work - cited the same issue.

So - time to go elsewhere! Of course physically they have the TB hooked up correctly, but keep getting a P1XXX code and no throttle response.
Oh... that's bad. What is the code?

Did they bent or pushed out a pin inside the connector? What does the code say? Did they use any dielectric grease?
 
Oh... that's bad. What is the code?

Did they bent or pushed out a pin inside the connector? What does the code say? Did they use any dielectric grease?

They did notice a pin wasn't staying connected very well. Unsure on the code, message was delivered over the phone not via email.

Back driving with the old TB - which is fine but I do want to get this thing replaced so that I hopefully stop getting the APPS fault code.
 
Can't you swap the pin out or replace the pins.. or at least ask the shop to do that.. you should be able to track the pin type from the EWD (Electric Wiring Diagram Guide)
 
They did notice a pin wasn't staying connected very well. Unsure on the code, message was delivered over the phone not via email.

Back driving with the old TB - which is fine but I do want to get this thing replaced so that I hopefully stop getting the APPS fault code.

The male pins are on the throttle body: Issue is the female pins on the wire connector on the wire harness. The female pins might have widen so it won't clip (grab) well into the male pins. The problem is male pins are unaffected on the number of times it has been plugged in and out, so switching into the new throttle body should not cause any issues if your old TB is still working fine.

If you want you can depin each female pin (ONE AT A TIME- NOTE TH ORIENTATION) out of the wire connector and tighten the tab on it. BEFORE you do it, make sure you disconnect the battery and wait few minutes for the electronics to go to sleep.
 
Can't you swap the pin out or replace the pins.. or at least ask the shop to do that.. you should be able to track the pin type from the EWD (Electric Wiring Diagram Guide)

Ordered another pin. Exactly the plan.
 
Ordered another pin. Exactly the plan.
Did this end up resolving for you?

I picked up a new throttle body assembly on info found in another thread that the buzzing from my motor meant it was bad. Well, that info was wrong and everything tested out to the same specs as the new unit.

Anyway, if you need a hang with this and can get to Loveland I can help you out. It was a very straight forward swap. The only unexpected thing was needing new coolant bypass hose and clamps for the 5 inch segment under the TB assembly. I have extra now.

I did pull the battery cable and pump the pedal a few times to reset. Started right away, no issues.

I have my old TB in box, everything tested to spec. And is in working order.
PXL_20230317_040642211.jpg


PXL_20230317_040534611.jpg


What year is your vehicle? I have a 99 and this is the part number used. To confirm they ordered the right thing:

PXL_20230317_040557486.jpg
 
Did this end up resolving for you?

I picked up a new throttle body assembly on info found in another thread that the buzzing from my motor meant it was bad. Well, that info was wrong and everything tested out to the same specs as the new unit.

Anyway, if you need a hang with this and can get to Loveland I can help you out. It was a very straight forward swap. The only unexpected thing was needing new coolant bypass hose and clamps for the 5 inch segment under the TB assembly. I have extra now.

I did pull the battery cable and pump the pedal a few times to reset. Started right away, no issues.

I have my old TB in box, everything tested to spec. And is in working order.
View attachment 3274435

View attachment 3274437

What year is your vehicle? I have a 99 and this is the part number used. To confirm they ordered the right thing:

View attachment 3274450

I actually ordered it via Stevinson Toyota West and picked it up myself. They have not followed up with me regarding the pin. I am pretty over the shop at this stage.

I am bummed to hear your whine wasn't solved, that is what I am chasing as well.
 
I actually ordered it via Stevinson Toyota West and picked it up myself. They have not followed up with me regarding the pin. I am pretty over the shop at this stage.

I am bummed to hear your whine wasn't solved, that is what I am chasing as well.

I actually found the whine, a brand new Toyota alternator has either a bad rear bearing, a bad rectifier, or the brush/shaft interface is bad. I got a stethoscope down on the alternator yesterday and the rear of the thing is not quiet.

Annoying as I literally sprung for the pricey one direct from Toyota and it's been in there all of a month.
 
Have you tried to inspect the alternator off the engine?
 
I actually ordered it via Stevinson Toyota West and picked it up myself. They have not followed up with me regarding the pin. I am pretty over the shop at this stage.

I am bummed to hear your whine wasn't solved, that is what I am chasing as well.
Did you fix your TB issue? I am dealing with this issue right now and ordered the part from stevinson East. I didn’t disconnect the battery before starting up so I’m going to try that once I’m done bleeding the coolant.
 
Did you fix your TB issue? I am dealing with this issue right now and ordered the part from stevinson East. I didn’t disconnect the battery before starting up so I’m going to try that once I’m done bleeding the coolant.

I never did - the Indy shop I was working with ordered one direct themselves thinking mine was bad or not what I was telling them .. they couldn’t get that one to work so they put my old one back in and called it a day. Haven’t been back to them since because they charged me time on something they couldn’t get right.
 
I never did - the Indy shop I was working with ordered one direct themselves thinking mine was bad or not what I was telling them .. they couldn’t get that one to work so they put my old one back in and called it a day. Haven’t been back to them since because they charged me time on something they couldn’t get right.
Gotcha, I just did mine and had the same issue with the constant TPS code. I disconnected the battery for a few seconds then hooked it back up and works great now. In case anyone has the same issue after replacing.
 
Gotcha, I just did mine and had the same issue with the constant TPS code. I disconnected the battery for a few seconds then hooked it back up and works great now. In case anyone has the same issue after replacing.
Thanks, I’m about to go back into trying to figure this out mode because my truck didn’t want to run this morning and threw a code. Haven’t had a chance to put it on a code reader yet.
 

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