Thoughts on the oil catch can..

[Roberto]

can someone explain this blowby process to me. Should and when does a vehicle have this blowby? My 83 BJ42 was just totally rebuilt and it is slinging a little oil out the tube?? Should a new rebuilt engine do so??

Rob

 

[Dieseler]

My understanding is there is a baffle on the inside of the side cover which deflects the oil from coming out if this is true that may be your problem it may be missing, blow by should only be engine gases that pass by the rings ... I have not had the side cover off to see if this is true or not.

 

[Dave 2000]

can someone explain this blowby process to me. Should and when does a vehicle have this blowby? My 83 BJ42 was just totally rebuilt and it is slinging a little oil out the tube?? Should a new rebuilt engine do so??

Rob

Blowby as mentioned is gases passing the piston rings into the crankcase. Cause of this tends to be wear on the rings/piston/bores, or perhaps a broken piston ring, on a new engine assuming the ring gaps were spaced correctly and no rings broke during assembly then it is just the new rings bedding in.

Some engine builders advise you to NOT to use a fully synthetic oil during run in periods to help the rings bed in, some even use an oil which has properties which help the rings ect seat.



regards

Dave

 

[jason tincey]

sorry to dig up an old thread but anyone got a pic of how a catch can is set up on a 12ht
cherz

 

[ForealBoreal]

ah run it into the frame.
I can show you a shot from my old hdj81

 

[RufusTheDufus]

If you run it into the frame it will collect tons of dirt and dust. The acids will collect in this dirty mess and promote oxidation elsewhere in the frame. (Acids will create chemical reactions that promote electrical reactions.) It might seem like you're preserving that section of frame but you're really just promoting rust elsewhere.

 

[Red Rattler]

I spent $30 on a catch can and it was the best thing I had ever done. Ran the hose to atmosphere with a check valve for river crossings and drained the can at every service. The engine ran much smoother and had better responce.

 

[Fatbob]

3B

So, this is something that should not be done on a 3B since the 3B needs to be vented to the atmosphere?

 

[SHREDwagon]

My understanding is there is a baffle on the inside of the side cover which deflects the oil from coming out if this is true that may be your problem it may be missing, blow by should only be engine gases that pass by the rings ... I have not had the side cover off to see if this is true or not.

I read the following on LCool and bent my baffles down to 10mm as recommended by Safari for the 1HZ:
Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine
I also installed a proper catch can with a scrubber at the same time.

Was getting some smoke on my freshly rebuilt 1HD-T. It's all but gone and the catch can is empty...... with a dry air intake. Figure the baffle gap was the issue. Worked for me.

 

[loucaojr]

Hi mudders!!

I'm digging up this thread since I'm thinking about installing a catch can in my 1994 HDJ80 12V (1HD-T).

I've been reading a lot about this catch can thing... But much info ends in more doubts....

Mainly, what I would like to clear out is when using a simple air/liquid separator, like the one in the next pic, the main thing that I must pay attention is the size of the connectors, right? They must be the same size the connectors in the PCV and in the air filter duct so it won't build pressure inside the crank case air the air flow remain almost the same.
For example an separator with 1/4'' NTP connector won't be for this application but a 3/4'' will suite?

Or are there another details to which I should be looking at?!

Most probably, the Provent 200 is the best solution out there, right? But I'm in EU and only managing to get one from Australia via Ebay, which means shipping will be high and customs to....

I've also found the Provent 100, does it suite well my car or is it small?

Please share your thoughts!!

Thanks.

 

[B Point]

I wouldn't over think it. A cheap aluminum catch can, a copper dish scrubbing pad, some garden hose.....done for about $35...

I'm thinking of just running the return hose to atmosphere.

 

[Dan_J-spec_fj62]

But make sure you do not have too much restriction. You will end up pushing oil past seals into the exhaust. Producing a James Bond like smokescreen for you and your neighbors. Not a big deal if you don't mind the whole fog effect.

Dan

 

[loucaojr]

Thanks mates!!

B Point, regarding your can, what was the size of the connectors?

Dan, Was my main concern figure out a can/filter that wouldn't that wouldn't do much restriction... I've read a couple of horror stories and some blokes that they're rigs had problems and they blame the use of a not proper can... Maybe with much restriction.

 

[loucaojr]

This one looks good!

 

[B Point]

Thanks mates!!

B Point, regarding your can, what was the size of the connectors?

Dan, Was my main concern figure out a can/filter that wouldn't that wouldn't do much restriction... I've read a couple of horror stories and some blokes that they're rigs had problems and they blame the use of a not proper can... Maybe with much restriction.

I think they are around 3/4....maybe a little less..

 

[ForealBoreal]

5/8 hose

 

[9180ltd]

Dump it on the ground, I did the catch can years ago... The simple catch can works well for what oil actually comes out. If I were to do it again I'd just run the line down just behind the axel ... Like every other diesel since the conception of compression ignition

 

[B Point]

Dump it on the ground, I did the catch can years ago... The simple catch can works well for what oil actually comes out. If I were to do it again I'd just run the line down just behind the axel ... Like every other diesel since the conception of compression ignition

I'm actually thinking of taking mine off and just running a hose to ground. I checked my can after about 3000kms and there's so little oil in there ...a few drips on the pavement isn't going to be a problem..

 

[Cruisin']

I've been running mine with a hose to the ground (zap-strapped to the sway bar, near the frame mount) for several years. I get the odd drop on the floor of the garage, where it is parked during the winter. In the summer its parked outside and I've never seen a drop on the driveway. I figure it must stay warmer parked inside so the oily goop in the hose doesn't congeal as quickly and the odd drip makes it out the bottom.

I've thought to put a catch can of some sort in the hose just so I don't get the black blobs on the garage floor...

 

[dscawilson]

I see no reason why venting into the atmosphere is problematic. The recurculation is strictly as many have said for emissions purposes only. Look at any earily cummins or any off highway diesel that is not bound by emission regulations, the crankcase vent is a hose off the valve cover venting straight to the ground. I have seen this on cats, John deeres, izuzus, detroits, Perkins amongst others. I run a catch can that has baffels in it, it vents into the atmosphere. I consider this to be a happy medium between environment and engine cleanlyness. It's better for the environment than nothing since I'm catching the majority of the oil in the can and better for the engine since it's not coating the intake and turbo with oil with the bonus of no grey smoke the first time you get on it in the morning.

I totally agree with you on that, most heavy trucks just have the blow by tube running down from the rocker cover to vent to the atmosphere by the oil pan. It doesn't make sense to put hot dirty crank case air into your engine. Im going to do mine this week.