From a leverage stanpoint none. However, because there is one additional joint an extender will amplify any slop.
Thoughts on Hitch Extender? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tanglefoot
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From a leverage stanpoint none. However, because there is one additional joint an extender will amplify any slop.
Almost all the ones I’ve seen are not intended for use while towing, they are made to mount hitch boxes or bike racks on the back or a snow plow on the front. Look for a reputable name in hitches and check the specs, avoid anything Chinesium and ignore their specs.
As promised, removable trailer jack. It just pulls out. I got this at Tractor Supply.
I found a calculator online at one point and did the math, it results in about 10% TW increase per foot of length.
- Thread starter
- #26
thanks…. I will get something like this to get me by until I figure out what to do.
Bingo that's the calculator I used. OPs weights may vary but the (C) wheelbase and (D) receiver to rear axle should be the same. Finding (D) took me a while.
As you can see in my setup adding 7" of length moves 46# worth of weight to the rear axle. Given my 863# tongue weight that's about 5% difference for 7", which equates to ~9% per foot. (Note that hitch length is based on center of receiver to center of hitch head, which is why (E) is longer than the Curt diagrams which show 14" from hitch pin hole to hitch head mounting holes). You could play with the weights and extension lengths to fit your scenario but the loosely stated "1% per inch" rule of thumb I found online is reasonably accurate if not a tad conservative.
- Thread starter
- #28
Further…. Had a very helpful discussion this morning with Slee. Good outfit.
Anyway, the most helpful discussion ….perhaps…“new information” was related to the trailer itself and what my current experience is when pulling the trailer with my pickup. (One poster’s comment was that double axle trailers would have different tongue loading compared to same size single axle trailers.)
The trailer is only 7x12 …. double axle….and is a “camper conversion” type of unit. I’m kinda slow on the uptake, but realized that I have been trying to load gear up at the front of the trailer….to get a bit more tongue weight so as to reduce Wyoming wind sway. Clearly, the front axle of this trailer is carrying more load than the rear axle, but am pretty sure the axle is nowhere near overloaded.
To make it short, I will try just enough shank extension to clear the tire and see how that works. I already expect that I will not like the extra jostle and “looseness,” but we’ll see. I’ll wait on the trailer tongue extension.
Thanks for the help….
Tanglefoot
How long is your existing ball mount? If it's fairly short why not try one of these instead? Curt makes one 12.25" (receiver pin hole to ball mount hole) and Hidden Hitch has one that's 15.75". You'll still deal with the extra leverage but you won't have the potential slop or strength issues which happen by simply using an extender?
Class 3 Ball Mount (2" Shank, 7,500 lbs., 2" Drop, 12-1/4" Long)
CURT class 3, or standard-duty, ball mounts are a step up from classes 1 and 2. They feature a 2" x 2" shank and have a higher weight capacity for towing heavy-duty trailers, including utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, single-horse livestock trailers and most recreational vehicle...
www.curtmfg.com
- Thread starter
- #30
Yeah, why not?
good suggestion….thanks,
Tanglefoot
good suggestion….thanks,
Tanglefoot
