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I had to cancel, no money for gas. Having the G-kids here is complicating things financially. I have no $$$ to spare until after the 20th and even then just enough for gas and groceries for the run. I may just run it up to Siskiyou summit with the pedal to the floor(as usual) and back to see what happens. Also need to find out where the slop in my shifter is, what the front passenger side steering "klunk" is and if I'm lucky, somehow get my A/C charged up and working. All w/o spending any money. I really think if I have any heating trouble going up the hill I'm gonna follow Jesse's advise and open up one of those clutches and fill it with JB weld and mount it up. No question of that working for the trip- but I still haven't got one of them apart, even with the driver you loaned. I'll get there somehow. Jesse loaned me keys to the shop to work there but Saturday was the day I promised the kids to show them Crater Lake and we did have fun doing that, it was a beautiful day.

BTW, how are the mosquitos at Sourdough?? They were out in force at Union creek Saturday.
 
From what I have read (keynote read), I wouldn't jb weld or anything like it. It will burn up the bearings on your other junk on the belts. There is a several reasons it is a clutch design in the first place. JMHO
 
Good point. After the used clutch you "loaned" me didn't seem to function any different than the brand new "used one" I bought on mud my hope is that they are both good. I still don't know why it still spins freely even when fully warmed up. How hot does the engine block itself actually get when the normally functioning fan clutch begins to lock up anyhow?? The heat that causes the clutch to operate travels from the block through the water pump and pulley before it reaches the clutch(assumption). Maybe it's requiring alot more heat than my cookie sheet test in the oven at 350* to work right. Anyhow, want me to drop off you drill tomorrow?
 
mobydick said:
Maybe it's requiring alot more heat than my cookie sheet test in the oven at 350* to work right?
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No way.

The fan never sees temp's much higher than 200* under normal operating conditions.

AFAIK, a fluid fan clutch never "fully" locks up: if you've got good gloves on and are willing to go for it, then yeah, you're going to be able to stop it, even at operating temperature.

My thoughts:

1) You've got three or four perfectly good clutches.

2) The *only* overheating you've seen was on the initial fire-up, correct? If so, then as I said previously, that's a common issue with 3FE's after draining the coolant: You need to start it for a minute or two to distribute the coolant you've refilled, then shut it down and add more (there's usually room for a lot more than after the first time), and then go for it.

Curtis
 
Edit: The more I think about it, taking those clutches to 350* is just a bad idea, period. Why for you do that? :confused:
 
CJF said:
Edit: The more I think about it, taking those clutches to 350* is just a bad idea, period. Why for you do that? :confused:
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To see if I noticed any difference in the resistance provided by the clutch when it is "warmed up", compared to the clutch cold. More resistance when hot would indicate to me that the clutch was doing it's job. You may be right Curtis. maybe they are fine and my problems are solved. I'm still running water only. I need to drain and refill with a good mix of AF. I'll give you an update manana.;)
 
Saw you took the cruiser into work today :)
 
I would still fill one of the bad clutches with jb weld just to use for an emergency spare. It will ruin the water pump bearing if u leave it on there too long though. You could always go with an auxillary electric fan too on the other side of the radiator. In my experience if the truck overheats regularly its the radiator not the fan. By the sound of it I bet u got it figured out already. Sounds like it just needed to be burped.
 
Latest report- wanted to run it up to the summit on the freeway but only made it to Ashland before the temp gauge got up against the red. I wasn't about to continue up the hill. I think I know what was gonna happen. pissed. :frown:

Around town it hovers just above the 2nd notch on the gauge. Get on the freeway and it runs right up to the red but not into the red. Still too hot. Runs smoothly enough and no leaks anywhere- there, I ended on a positive! Any ideas?? Does water alone make a poor enough coolant to notice a difference if I refill with a 50/50 coolant mix ?
 
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At this point I think its definitely your radiator. On the freeway all your cooling comes from the efficiency of the air flowing through the radiator not your fan.
 
jamister1 said:
At this point I think its definitely your radiator. On the freeway all your cooling comes from the efficiency of the air flowing through the radiator not your fan.
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x2 Radiator. Checked for any cold spots on the fins?
 
If that's the case I'm screwed. No money till payday the 20th and even then doubt I'll have extra for that. Story of my fxxxing life. Well, I've got some T-shirts anyways(when I pay for those)......:mad:

Pawned my only handgun today to buy jet boat tickets for this Sunday. Couldn't tell them Grandpa didn't have the money again.
 
mobydick said:
If that's the case I'm screwed. No money till payday the 20th and even then doubt I'll have extra for that. Story of my fxxxing life. Well, I've got some T-shirts anyways(when I pay for those)......:mad:

Pawned my only handgun today to buy jet boat tickets for this Sunday. Couldn't tell them Grandpa didn't have the money again.
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Did you check for any cold spot's on the rad!?!?
 
No, but I just finished dinner. Think I'll change and go out and see what I can see. I assume you want me to feel around what, the front side of the radiator when its warmed up just using my hand??
 
mobydick said:
No, but I just finished dinner. Think I'll change and go out and see what I can see. I assume you want me to feel around what, the front side of the radiator when its warmed up just using my hand??
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Get up to temp driiving around to be sure. Turn off, put hand inside of the shroud. See if there is places that you can touch VS touch for a few sec's without pulling away because its toasty.

Not an absolute answer, but pretty much deemed mine dead.
 
If you have the stock metal radiator, this may be worth a shot: How to Clean a Radiator With Muriatic Acid | eHow.com

I've never used muriatic acid in a rad, but I have used it to clean steel parts, and it's awesome!!!

DO NOT USE IT ON ALUMINUM!!!!!! It's bad juju..... :D
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
If you have the stock metal radiator, this may be worth a shot: How to Clean a Radiator With Muriatic Acid | eHow.com

I've never used muriatic acid in a rad, but I have used it to clean steel parts, and it's awesome!!!

DO NOT USE IT ON ALUMINUM!!!!!! It's bad juju..... :D
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With that in mind, and assuming the radiator is steel, which it appears to be, are there aluminum parts within the crankcase itself that would be negatively affected by using the acid throughout the sealed cooling system entirely?? And, BTW, I'm wondering if there is a run-in time on the fan clutch because I have indeed confirmed that it is working now(my fingers hurt from being unable to stop the fan). :D
 
retrofive said:
Get up to temp driiving around to be sure. Turn off, put hand inside of the shroud. See if there is places that you can touch VS touch for a few sec's without pulling away because its toasty.

Not an absolute answer, but pretty much deemed mine dead.
Click to expand...

I will try to remember and check it tomorrow when I get to work. Good thing you said "turn it off" first. :p
 
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