Thought you'd like this one........!

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Water pump, alternator, A/C bracket, thermostat housing, all new hosing and idler bearings. Ty is soldering together replacement a/c compressor wiring for the clutch magnet so I can use a replacement compressor Danny got me years ago. We tested it with Ty's :doh:meter and it's in good shape. I'll need to get some help charging it up with 134 this time. Once that is done I can start with the compressor and start throwing belts on, and then the new fluid coupling, fan and shroud to finish things off. :D

I need to get this done so I can put some road miles on it before McGrew.
 
Just finished the wiring on the clutch mag. Checks out perfect now. Ill drop off this morning, or if your running errands feel free to swing by.
 
retrofive said:
Just finished the wiring on the clutch mag. Checks out perfect now. Ill drop off this morning, or if your running errands feel free to swing by.
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I'll be here Ty. Not going anywhere! Wow, maybe start my cruiser up later today!?? ;)
 
Chris,

If you want to stay R-12 on the A/C, I can (legally) get you refrigerant anytime. It's definitely more expensive, but still something to think about.

Current market price is ~$40 per can; it'll likely go down to about $30 towards the end of summer.

Curtis
 
You guys should get over here and watch. I'm about ready to fill the radiator up and connect the battery for a test firing!! :eek:
 
Crap! Started up on the 2nd pop and had no unusual noises or leaks but immediately proceeded to overheat! And when hot I checked the fan to see if it freewheeled when hot and it does! Not supposed to right? :frown::crybaby::crybaby:

OK, so that $40 fan clutch I bought which appeared brand new and came in a Toyota box with part #'s and everything is definitely no good. it totally freewheels when the engine is hot! :mad: It was a little gratifying to watch it heat up as usual, feel the thermostat open at the normal temp and start circulating through the radiator normally. No leaks anywhere, even when the engine got pretty hot and I shut it down to watch the temperature spike as usual. The only place which was venting was the little overflow tube coming out of the overflow bottle so everything in the way of gaskets and hoses and even radiator cap are pretty good. Not the usual end result for me!! And changing out the fan clutch now?? No problem- I'm getting to be a pro at that. BTW, I am now in possession of 4(four) fan clutches for my engine. I don't know what other rigs they might fit but anyone want to rebuild and then sell?? You could give me one rebuild to keep and the other 3 you can have. 3X ??? on mud?? Anyone interested?? ;)

BTW, Ty, where did you get your fan clutch from?? Still got your paperwork?? Remember, this one I have looks brand new! I think it didn't work and you need to return mine for an exchange please.......:eek::confused::meh::hillbilly:

$20 in it fer ya!
 
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Overheating just like before?

Have you verified radiator temp with a thermometer? (a kitchen probe type will work- just tape it to the top of the tank)

Is the T-stat used or new, did you test it in a pan of hot water and verify that it opens all the way with a thermometer?

Did your t-stat have both gaskets installed correctly? One goes on the mating surface and the other between the t-stat and housing upper?

Did you match all new gaskets to the old gaskets and verify proper openings?

Does the radiator have good flow?

Is your radiator cap holding pressure? If not it will allow the water to boil at the lower temp which results in overheating..

Any signs of a bad head gasket?
 
Kief, I used the same T-stat as before, which was fairly new and I did test it in boiling water for full opening and it was fine. All gaskets were Toyota and matched old in every way and yes, the upper rubber seal is not the culprit because I DID forget to put it in and had to crack the T-stat housing back open to put it in!! The radiator cap is fine but I don't have anything to check radiator temp with but doesn't the fact that the fan clutch is fully freewheeling and not really spinning at any speed pretty much sound like the problem?? I don't know. Figured I'd see about procuring another one but may not have the $$$ in time for McGrew. Same 'Ol Chit! :frown:

If it turns out to be the radiator then I'm screwed and will not make McGrew. There is no more money in the budget for more parts.
 
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The fan should spin when cold and then loosen up after a minute or two after start up. Then once it gets hot it should engage.. The question is what is your temperature? No Meat or Candy thermometers around?
 
I will dig around tomorrow. I have an immersion thermometer at work that I use for keeping lens dyes at 205 degrees. It's range gos well beyond that but it is for immersion in the liquid. Don't know how accurate it would be simply contacting the vessel's surface. One thing I did do later I realized I had only "filled" the radiator once before starting. Didn't occur to me until later that I was dealing with a block that was pretty empty. I went out and probably doubled the amount of water in the system before it was truly "full". It still got hot but took much longer and if I ran a fan in front of the radiator it helped "a little". Still too hot though and once hot, the fan was again checked and was easily stopped with a small rolled up newspaper. ??? :frown:

For what it's worth, still no signs of any water leaking anywhere so I'm pleased about that but still not roadworthy. After replacing the pump and idler bearings the engine sounds nice and smooth, or maybe I just miss hearing it run?
 
I got nothing Chris, sorry. Be sure no air is in the cooling system. Read somewhere if you park nose up and run the truck it should burp itself and make sure the water reservoir is fill the marker. Dunno.
 
retrofive said:
I got nothing Chris, sorry. Be sure no air is in the cooling system. Read somewhere if you park nose up and run the truck it should burp itself and make sure the water reservoir is fill the marker. Dunno.
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Where did you get your fan clutch and radiator? Costs??:frown:
 
mobydick said:
Where did you get your fan clutch and radiator? Costs??:frown:
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Radiator I got from D&T on table rock road. I used my original rebuilt clutch. I have a spare i had purchased from another 'mud member (without fan). They are different clutches (60 vs 80), but I think it would work on yours.... or welcome to try it.

poke around in the 60 section, Im sure some has tried or done it or said it flat won't work. The clutch is larger and pretty sure the fan is as well, so you would have to bolt up your existing fan to it.

Rad was $252. Clutch used from here was $18 shipped.
 
... I also have plenty of 10,000 cst to rebuild another one (fan clutch) if you want.
 
Taking today off. My hands and back are shot.:frown:
 
I lied! I went out and pulled the T-stat out and reassembled. Now, even with a fan clutch that doesn't seem to work I can't get it even close to overheating.

:confused::hhmm:
 
Chris don't you have a couple clutch laying around?? Tried any of them?
 
I took the 3 EXTRA clutches I have, besides the one in there now that doesn't seem to work and I put them all in the oven on a cookie sheet at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes. Then I took them outside and tried each one looking for one that would be hard to turn. They were all equally easy to turn just like the one that's in there now. :o I will try and see if Ty can help me rebuild one and for backup I think I'll take one apart and fill it with sand instead of oil. :doh: That ought to keep the plick from slipping!:D
 
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